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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought the following parts to (hopefully) "drop into" my Springfield Mil-Spec 1911A1. Can someone tell me which ones I am likely to end up having to modify to make them fit right?

Hammer--Ed Brown Hardcore
Sear-- Ed Brown Perfection
Disconnector-- Ed Brown
Hammer strut-- also Ed Brown
Hammer strut pin-- Colt (I think I'm okay here)
Beavertail safety--Springfield Armory
Trigger--Pachmeier.

I thought by buying all one brand, I would simplify things. Also, I am saving the removed parts as a set in case things go horribly wrong and I need to replace them (shudder).

Thanks for any tips or help.

[This message has been edited by Ledbetter (edited 06-15-2001).]
 

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Drop in parts never drop in. It depends on a lot of factors such a the frame. You might have to do some minor fitting work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the, umm, encouragement
.

Found this
http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/sear_jig.htm

which explains the use of a sear jig and the tools needed for the trigger job.

This all started because I bought a beavertail safety from a guy who installed a different brand on his Springfield Loaded. Then I needed a new hammer, and so on, and so on.

Now I need a sear jig, a fine stone, a medium stone, and so on.

Ahhh, a new project.
 

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Nothing bettter then the smell of hot coffee and gun oil to kick off a Saturday morning....Heck of a lot easier to tune a gun on the kitchen table then a '55 Chevy!

Good news is now you dont have to worry about safe space, but your gun tool box managment skils are going to get tested


highly recomend getting a Pistol Punch set while you are collecting goodies.
Cheers
Ty @ CoolGunSite.com
 

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I think the hammer, sear, disconnector, hammer strut and hammer strut pin will likely drop in fairly easily. Put these parts in first and see how you like the tigger pull. If it is OK, then you don't need the sear jig, etc. If the pull has some creep or feels "gritty", then you will have some work to do.

As for the beavertail, this is probably going to be the hardest one to do. Your gun is a mil-spec, so the frame tangs at the rear are pretty long. A beavertail from a Springfield "Loaded" will not drop in. If you don't want to cut your frame, Wilson and Kings both make a beavertail that doesn't require the frame to be cut, but these don't look as nice IMO. You'll probably want to get a fitting jig that has the correct radius for the new beavertail. Brownells probably sells one.

The trigger may or may not go in easy. You may find that the trigger pad is too tall for your frame. Lay a flat file on your workbench and set the trigger pad on it and drag it towards yourself, keeping steady pressure and keeping it flat. This takes off just a little at a time. Check for fit often, and soon you'll get it.

The trigger bow may need some work too. With the grips off, you can easily see into the frame and see if the bow is sticking out into the magwell. Slide an empty mag in there and make sure the bow doesn't drag. Slight bending can be done with fingers, but having a trigger jig can be a good thing to get it perfectly square and true.

Jerry Kuhnhausens shop manuals for the 1911 are great reading and explain all of these steps in detail. I highly recommend them.

Hope this helps some.

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Byron Simpson
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Grandmaster B you are cracking me up. You see, I got this used beavertail 'cause I was {b]sure[/b] I could just install it in my Mil-Spec. Of course I never thought that I would need a new Commander-style hammer, which of course I did.

Then I figured, well why not a matching sear and disconnector. Then I figured, I might as well get the hammer strut and pin so I could reinstall the old parts in case, well, you know.

Now you're telling me my beavertail won't fit!? I just might send all the parts back to Brownells now, or leave the old beavertail on. I need to think. Ouch, it hurts.

Regards.
 
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