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Discussion Starter #1
Apparently the FP9, which uses the Browning action and not the S&W action, uses a different trigger spring ... because the axis pin is not staked or an interference fit, rather it is retained by a notch on the axis pin and tension from the trigger spring.

Tried 3 Browning springs and none held tension in the notch when assembled.

I realized this when the axis pin fell out on my second range trip with the FP9.

I had an old trigger spring that didn't owe me anything, so I bent it to the correct shape to retain the axis pin.

Pics later
 

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Well Mark, you've made a pretty common mistake in interpretation of how the pin is held in the hole and what the role of the groove is.

First, the pin is held in the gun by a tight interference fit in the right side frame hole. This fit is usually compromised by guys driving the pin out the right side hole, not knowing about the interference fit. Once that happens, the pin will "walk", usually out the right side, and the spring in the groove won't hold it because that's not what it's for. That's what's wrong with your gun - the interference fit has been compromised. So you need to restore the tight interference fit of the pin to the right side hole. I'll give you a link to some techniques for doing this. It's pretty simple.

The purpose of the groove in the pin is simply to provide an orderly resting place for the tail of the spring and to hold it there securely. The fit of the spring in the groove was never intended to hold the pin in place and in fact won't once the pin starts walking, which is what is going on with your gun.

Here's a thread that tells how to restore the fit of the pin. The solution shown in post #2 works well, but I prefer the solution in post #4. I would recommend you stay away from the solution shown in post #3. I think it's a bit much.

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=487344

You needn't replace the trigger spring any more merely because it won't hold the pin in place. If it works well otherwise it's doing its job. Hope this helps.

JayPee
 

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That's right, and the pin tended to walk out to the left on mine. I had to peen the RH side head of the pin to keep it in the pistol. It still moves but only so far; otherwise you couldn't punch it out without enlarging the frame hole. This was on a completely original and unmodified PJK-9HP that I bought new, so there was no 'incorrect pin removal' involved - just hasty gun smithing by FEG. Trigger pin walk is fairly common on BHPs too. It would have been interesting to have made a video of me beating on my beautifully-blued FEG with a ball-peen hammer with the pin in the frame and the head of it on the anvil. But I got away with it, so no harm, no foul. I did use tape on both sides of the frame and on the anvil, which probably saved my hide. :) The only other thing I've done to it is to do a light polish/deburr on the hunchback feed ramp, which allowed me to use JHPs.
 

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Jaypee - do you know if anyone offers an oversized trigger pin? With as many oversized frame holes that appear to be out there, am selection of oversized pins (say in .002" increments) would permanently solve this problem. - tractor

Ps - have read your book on the FEG; great source of info - thanks much
 

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I've never heard of oversized pins, tractor. An oversized pin would have to be small enough to go through the left side hole and still large enough to lock up in the right side hole, and if the right side hole has been opened up so large that a larger diameter pin is needed, wouldn't the pin then be too large for the left side hole? I dunno. I'm not a machinist, but it doesn't seem to me like it would work. I think we're pretty well stuck with either peening the pin or fiddling with the right side hole until it will hold a pin again.
And thanks very much for the kind words about the book. My pleasure.

Later note - seems like the technology of locking pins or non slip pins like the ones used in AR 15 triggers might offer an answer, but again, I'm no machinist. Also, perhaps a solution would be to use a pin with a small and large end, insert the small end through the right side hole and tap in the large end until it snudges up in the right side hole. I dunno, but it's an interesting question.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
THANKS!

There is no position where a good trigger spring touches or rests on the axis pin in my FP9; something else must be out of spec in addition to the right side hole being punched out.

On my M-80 the spring does naturally land in the groove.

If I have any more trouble with the pin walking I will take your advice as shown on post 4 of the other thread.
 

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Do you mean the spring doesn't rest on the pin, or that the pin doesn't have a groove in it for the tail of the pin to ride in?
 

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I've never heard of oversized pins, tractor. An oversized pin would have to be small enough to go through the left side hole and still large enough to lock up in the right side hole, ................
Hmmm.......... Thinking...........
The trigger pin measures .1175" (I believe that is what my FEG measures), so the right side hole - for a pinch fit - would be about .116 to .1165. The left side hole would measure about .1185 or so. Haven't measured the frame holes, so I'm just speculating. Any problem with a left side hole lock up vice the right side? As long as the oversized pin OD is less then the trigger pivot hole ID then the trigger will still pivot on the pin. .........
Now I've got to take both me BHP and FEG apart and mic the pins and the holes.
I'll be back :scratch::)
 

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Mark, my dilapidated memory banks seem to recall that Browning used a couple of trigger springs in the Hi Power design and one had more or less coils than the other one. So if that is indeed accurate and you are using Browning parts, you might just have the wrong spring. If you want to make sure you have the right one, I'd buy a new FEG trigger spring from Numrich at https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/1202910C.htm. It's only $4.40. They're out of FEG trigger axis pins, but I have used Browning pins and found them to be the same. You might go ahead and get a new one from Browning Parts in Arnold, MO. Their parts are very reasonable and this way you would be assured of having all the correct parts and go from there in getting the gun set up correctly.

FYI, your gun will use almost all of the parts shown for the KBI PJK-9HP at the Numrich website. (KBI marketed your exact gun as the PJK 9HP.) If you go in through the home page, Click on the letter "K", then on "KBI" or "Kassnar" (either one), then on "PJK 9HP." Check the schematic for the part designator then scroll down to that number. It isn't listed under "FEG."

OK, I hope this helps. Keep us posted. FEG pistols are a topic of real interest here.

JayPee
 
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