[Spudgunr]

Ok, let me preface this with a statement. I'm not positive I know what the extractor is I am pretty sure it is the little catch on the bolt face that holds the round, but since nobody has pointed at it and said "this is an extractor" to me, I don't know for sure. I was shooting yesterday and several times I had failure to chamber. The slide went forward, but not all the way. I could grab the slide and push forward and all would be fine. Dad suggested too much fouling/leading, but when I took the barrel out I saw the rounds went all the way in no problem. I replicated the problem by slowly letting the slide forward and it did the same thing. If I let the slide go from slide lock it USUALLY went all the way forward, but once again, not all the way. This was the first time this particular thing has happened to me. I have had the slide lock back with a round in the magazine a few times....not sure about that one either.

So, what should I do to make sure the extractor is working right. Would the problem be with the extractor being too stiff/gunked up, or would the problem more likely be a weak recoil spring?

Any suggestions about the lockback with a round in the mag? Was my left hand accidentally hitting the slide release up or is there some play possible or what?

Oh, this is all in an Argentine Sistema.

Spud

 

[10ring]

I'll try to answer your questions, but if you're in need of more info, you might try searching for related discussions on this forum or the Gunsmith forum.

Since you were able to drop the rounds into the chamber of the barrel you were using, it means that the problem lies elsewhere. The rounds should have dropped completely in without your having to press on the back of them. When I say completely in, I'm refering to the base of the case being flush or below the barrel hood. The barrel hood is that portion of the barrel which extends back behind the chamber area.

The next place to look at is your extractor. It sounds like you know where the extractor is located. Its main purpose in life is to pull the case from the chamber upon firing, or to unload the gun. So, yes, the extractor is the hook shaped piece of metal extending in front of the breach-face. The area where the case rim has to slide under should be slightly rounded and polished. This allows the cartridge case to easily slip underneath the extractor hook. However, there has to be a certain amount of tension being applied by the extractor onto the case rim.

If the extractor looks reasonable, the next place to look is the lower edge of the chamber area. If you'll notice, there is a slight ramp angle at the bottom of the chamber opening. The top of this little ramp is the bottom of the chamber wall. The intersection of these two surfaces sometimes create a sharp corner which can catch a round being loading and cause a stoppage that you described. There should be a very small radius at this ramp/chamber-wall junction which allows the cartridge case to rotate upward into the chamber.

If these two areas look reasonable, you might want to try replacing the recoil spring and/or magazine spring. I don't recall you mentioning trying different magazines, but if you hadn't yet, you may want to try other magazines to see if that makes a difference.

 

[AZ Husker]

I'd start with a total disassembly and cleaning, including the extractor tunnel. Has that ever been done? The next easiest step is replacing the recoil spring. That needs done on a regular basis.

 

[Spudgunr]

I just got finished cleaning my guns (mosin and the 1911). I went ahead and took out the extractor, cleaned that hole, wiped the extractor off to get some carbon off, etc. I wiped down the whole slide and frame, etc.

When should the extractor be over the rim of the case? ANY time the slide is forward or just when it is slammed forward under spring tension? I slowly let the slide forward and it stopped in the same place. When I let the slide go from being an inch back it went all the way forward with the extractor in the proper position on the case. It however, would NOT go all the way forward when only released from a half inch. The slide had to be most of the way back to the slide catch before it would have enough force to close all the way. Is this correct? How far should the slide have to move before it has enough energy to catch? This was all done with the bullet already sitting in the chamber, not coming from the magazine, so no energy was lost moving the round up the feed ramp.

Spud

 

[Mamba2sfg]

Something could be tight or binding just a bit. The barrel link could be just a shade to long, the barrel fit to the slide could also be just a touch on the tight side. How many rounds have been through the gun?

 

[Spudgunr]

No way of knowing how many rounds through it. I have only put 500 or so so far, but that will change now that I am reloading for it for next to nothing. I don't know the guy I got it from or how many rounds he put through it. It could very well be tons of rounds, I wish I had a barrel to compare it to. The rifling looks really shallow, but since I haven't seen another 1911 barrel, it could be dang near factory new. I wouldn't imagine it is though. I'm guessing there is next to nothing there. I'd like to get a new barrel but can't justify the money for it right now since cast bullets shoot pretty good through it.

I don't have a clue how to check out if the barrel link is too long or if it is tight in the slide.

Spud

 

[Mamba2sfg]

The lands in a .45 are pretty thin anyway unless its one of the few match barrels that are cut very deep. If the gun has had a large # of rounds though it then a new recoil spring may be in order. If I remember, a 18.5# is stock for a .45. Your local shop should have recoil springs in stock and they are fairly inexpensive. Sometimes a problem can be very simple to fix, the 1911 is a good design that is reliable.

During that last small bit of movement from the slide, the barrel is locked into the slide & the round is secured into the extractor & chamber, the disconector resets the sear. A weak recoil spring could prevent that last bit of oomph to push it all together. Lube the slide & frame rails well.

A gunsmith can check the barrel link, but I'm sure someone in here can tell you a short cut for checking it yourself.

 

[LVMPDawg]

What Mamba2sfg said. Change that spring!

 

[10ring]

The stock recoil spring on the 1911, 45ACP is 16 lbs. Many people use the 18.5 lb though.

 

[Mamba2sfg]

My bad. Sucks when U get old! Thanks 10ring