[urbankaos04]

After much thought, I've finally narrowed down the list of work that I want done to my BHP MKIII. The list is as follows:

*Trigger job: Oh boy, do I NEED this!
*Stippling: front and rear...thought about the skateboard tape, but I thought I'd splurge here.
*Heine Striaight Eight Night Sights: Decided on these over the Novak's; w/25 yd zero.
*Texas Armory finish: Black Gun Kote over black parkerizing...chose this over the Birdsong Black T finish.
*Removal of right side thumb safety: Got that one from Mr. Camp.
*Removal of mag disconnect safety: Iffy on this one, though. (Decided to do it, afterall.)
*Relieve hammer shank to prevent hammer bite.
*Dehorn: (recent addition)
*Grips: Malagasy Rosewood Spegals (recent addition)

I was thinking about getting the reliability package done (i.e. throat barrel and polish feed ramp, polish breech face, adjust and polish extractor), but since my pistol hasn't malfunctioned once after 1,295 rds I don't think I need this performed.

I was also thinking about a match barrel, but why get one? I still have to work on out-shooting the stock barrel, much less a match barrel. I think my stock barrel will be just fine for concealed carry duties.

Any other areas that I should look at?

I'm familiar with C&S components, but I don't think I need to replace anything on my Hi Power. Sure, C&S parts may be higher in quality, but Mr. Camp's pistol is proof positive that standard Hi Power components are decent enough to withstand quite a bit of shooting. If I had the money to blow on completely tricking out my BHP I'd probably consider doing more, but I'm on a budget here.


Edited to add: I just saw this hammer on C&S's web pageCS092 - Browning Hi Power Type II Commander Hammer). Looks really nice, but according to Mr. Camp, I'll need to buy their sear, too. $100 in parts plus XXX amount in labor...forget it. It does look cool though.

 

[GrandmasterB]

Sounds like a pretty good list of stuff to me. I agree and commend you on your decision to forego the reliability job. Your pistol doesn't need it and you would be better off spending the money on practice ammo and time at the range.

The stock barrel is more than adequate for defense work and even most practical shooting games like IDPA, so there's another good choice. If you wear it out (hard to do) then go for the match barrel at that time.

Please post pics when you get it finished. Who will do the work for you? Also, what kind of grips will you use?

 

[urbankaos04]

The work is going to be done by Don Williams (The Action Works). As for grips, I'm currenty looking at Rosewood Spegel grips as they'll contrast nicely against the black Texas Armament finish.

 

[CastleBravo]

*Removal of mag disconnect safety: Iffy on this one, though.

DEFINITELY do it. Your trigger finger will thank you.

 

[hdm25]

*Removal of right side thumb safety: Got that one from Mr. Camp.

Actually, instead of doing this and ruining a factory ambi safety, you might just go ahead and buy the C&S strong side safety and have Don install it. Haven't bought one in a while but I doubt that they're more than $40 or so while a factory Browning ambi safety is at least $70 or so, I believe. If nothing else, you could sell the factory safety to someone and have the money to buy the C&S safety and have money left over.

Yup...just checked. Dealer price on the C&S is $37.80 and is $61.07 on the Browning factory unit.

In addition to relative cost, the C&S unit has more of a "shelf" and is easier to activate/deactivate.

I use the factory ambi safety "as is", however.

 

[hdm25]

Oh...and very nice list, btw.

If you're in the mood to conserve, though, you might consider dropping the bar from the Novak sights since a single dot in the front sight will work fine and you might also just have the pistol refinished with parkerizing than with the combo.

Still, if you go ahead and do that combo from Texas Armament, I would love to see a picture. I've been thinking about having a hi-power done that way, too, but am hesitant to do so without first seeing what it looks like.

 

[urbankaos04]

hdm25,

Thanks for the suggestions. I checked out the C&S website and checked out thier thumbsafety (CS035 - Extended Safety for Browning Hi Power - Blue-Price: $47.25), but I don't like the way it looks. I gotta see what it looks like on the gun. I don't have a problem with the stock safety, but I've never tried anything else, so I don't know how much better the C&S unit is.

As for the finish, Texas Armament quoted me $125 for the combo (Gun Kote over parkerizing). The park serves as a primer for the Gun Kote, which makes for a hard and durable finish from what I understand.

You're the second person to suggest nixing the bar and just going with a front dot. I'm still up in the air (again!) now that I saw how the Heinie's look on a MKIII. Decisions, decisions, decisions....

I gotta remind myself not to look at the C&S website agains, because this thing is calling me! CS218HC - CS217 - Browning Hi-Power Type II Chamfered Commander Hammer 2 piece Set
Price: $113.80. I'm going to show how much of a novice I am on this one, but here it goes: What's does CHAMFERED mean?

 

[BHP]

I gotta remind myself not to look at the C&S website agains, because this thing is calling me! CS218HC - CS217 - Browning Hi-Power Type II Chamfered Commander Hammer 2 piece Set
Price: $113.80. I'm going to show how much of a novice I am on this one, but here it goes: What's does CHAMFERED mean?

CHAMFERED means BEVELLED, or the breaking of an edge.

 

[Ricky T]

Here is one John Harrison of Precision Gun Works did for a friend of mine. Grips are by Spegal.

 

[hdm25]

urbankaos04, e-mail me at [email protected] and I'll share an anecdote with you about the chamfered hammer from C&S...

 

[Rosco Benson]

[BHere is one John Harrison of Precision Gun Works did for a friend of mine. Grips are by Spegal. [/B]

Those stocks look more like Hogues than Spegels.

On the thumb safety for the P-35; I think the old Jim Hoag unit--now sold by Novak--looks and feels the best. I would also urge anyone having a P-35 customized to have it "carry beveled" or "dehorned" and to have the rear of the hammer scooped out on the "no bite mod" fashion.

Rosco

 

[Michael]

Urban,

My grips are like those in an above post, and are from Ahrends; they are Royal Jacaranda Dymondwood (read laminated plywood), and look nice.

The scope of work I asked Don to perform on my BHP, which I carry both on and off duty, consists of a trigger job (absolutely wonderful), black on black Novaks sighted in at 25 yards, stippling, built-up strong side safety, dehorning, anti-bite hammer, radiused and polished trigger, and Black-T finish. Hope you enjoy yours as much I as I have mine (I'm sure you will).

Sincerely,

Michael

 

[Ricky T]

I was told it was Spegal, might have been a mistake or memory lapse. It's not a conspiracy or cover up really.

 

[urbankaos04]

Should be getting my BHP by next month. Will post pics as soon as I can.

 

[Stephen A. Camp]

Hello. Sounds like you're going to have a heck of a shooter there and a good lookin' HP to boot! Please keep us updated and let us know your observations when the blessed day comes that you get to shoot your customized little gem.

Best.

 

[urbankaos04]

Mr. Camp:

Yes, sir, I simply can not wait until the day come when my BHP comes back from the Action Works. Hopefully, by then I'll also have a digital Sony cam, so I'll be able to post pics.

Prior to sending my BHP off, I was shooting a bit low and to the left. I attributed this to the the rather stiff trigger pull,which caused me to "pull" the pistol down as I pressed the trigger. Hopefully the trigger job will remedy this problem.

And by the way, Mr. Camp, I also want to thank you for putting out such informative material, which has helped me tremendously in learning about this fine pistol.

 

[jacII]

urbankaos04:
If you are at all prone to hammer bite I suggest you seriously consider the C&S Type I hammer instead. I had a Type II installed and ended up switching it out for a Type I. The Type II bit me, although not nearly as bad as the rowel type that came on my Practical. A less expensive alternative if you have the spur hammer is simply to have it trimmed back a couple of serrations and have the sides rounded off.
Joe

 

[Stephen A. Camp]

Hello, and thank you very much.

Best.

 

[urbankaos04]

urbankaos04:
If you are at all prone to hammer bite I suggest you seriously consider the C&S Type I hammer instead. I had a Type II installed and ended up switching it out for a Type I. The Type II bit me, although not nearly as bad as the rowel type that came on my Practical. A less expensive alternative if you have the spur hammer is simply to have it trimmed back a couple of serrations and have the sides rounded off.
Joe

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I'm having the hammer "shank" relieved. The web of my hand was getting pinched between the shank and the "tang" of the pistol. But this was ocurring only when I would try to ride the thumb safety as one would with a 1911. At any rate, I just decided to do it anyway.

 

[Robert Hairless]

That should be one fine Hi-Power when it leaves Mr. Williams' hands. I've had the opportunity to use two of the Hi-Powers on which he did his basic package and I would have been proud to own either of them.

Do you mind a suggestion? When dealing with such a first rate pistolsmith I've learned that it's wise to describe my own situation (age, eyesight, hand size, favorite shooting grip, purpose of the pistol such as range use or self defense) and my specific tastes (I like discreet dehorning but don't like melting and I dislike flashiness, for example). Then I ask for the smith's recommendations and suggestions. I know more about me than the smith does but the smith knows more about the trade than I do, so I try for a collaboration. So far that approach has been rewarding. Just a thought.