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Then there's the Jeff Cooper Positive Fix method.
He drilled a hole in the top side of his firing pin stop and drilled and threaded a corresponding hole in the slide.
He inserted a slotted head screw that could be removed using the sear spring.
 
I've broken a firing pin spring due to too much dry-firing, and I still didn't see this happen. But it is possible that a firing pin stop depends on a good, strong firing pin spring. I'd change out both and see what happens (no fitting required):


Bet if he did change both it would be the end of the problem—that’s a wise call!
 
If one doesn’t doesn’t like the tight fit of a FBFPS…just fit it a little ‘less tight’. Special toolless removal. The best of both worlds.
 
Yes, it is easy to fit an fps just loose enough where you can pull it by hand but have practically zero fore and after play. I use a small punch to press the firing pin down then rotate the punch down, and push the fps past the firing pin, then use my hand to capture the fp and pull the fps out with my other hand.
 
Never had the firing pin stop move on any 1911/2011. My understanding is that a proper length firing pin and weight spring the firing pin with round in chamber will not move far enough forward to allow the FP stop to move during recoil. Will readily admit my understanding may be in error.
 
I would highly recommend the: EGW (Evolution Gun Works) Oversized Firing Pin Stop Series 70 .45 ACP Blue (you may need a different version depending upon the caliber/series/model/finish of your 1911).

Besides being slightly wider and thicker than most FPS - which will require fitting - it will prevent the FPS from “clocking” or easily sliding out under recoil. It also has the original JMB design “flat” bottom edge (it is not actually flat, it does have a very slight radius). This “flat” or “square” bottom edge will keep the slide locked for a millisecond longer and slow the slide velocity which will result in less felt recoil and less “muzzle flip”. Modern FPS have a much more significant radius than the original JMB design to make the slide easier to rack with the hammer forward.

With the EGW FPS you may be able (need) to use a slightly softer (lower pound rating) - 1 or 2 pound less - recoil spring. This will also have the advantage of the muzzle dipping down less as the slide returns forward into battery.

All in all, using the EGW FPS will result in less muzzle movement during recoil, allowing you to keep the front sight on-target better for faster follow-up shots.
 
All 6 of my .45acp 1911's have EGW small radius fps. Fit it and go. They will not fall out with no fp spring in.
And they shouldn't.
The stop needs a snug fit in the slide, but not tight enough to require serious hammering to get it out.
Get a 2.5 gallon zip storage bag.
Hefty makes them.
do the disassembly inside the bag.
Punches in both hands.
Push on the FP until the head is all the way though the stop.
Gentle pressure on the stop with a punch in the other hand to slide it down and out.
If you slip off the stop or it falls way the FP will for the most part stay in the bag.
 
This takes all the issues you are concerned with and eliminates them.
Joe
I didn't realize they had a tool, thanks for posting!
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I replaced the spring and all is well. The original spring was about 1/4 inch shorter than the replacement. My 1911 is a custom made commander that was built by a gunsmith friend of mine. He was trying to get the fastest lock time possible and went with a light pin and, obviously, a light spring. Unfortunately, my friend passed away before we could get all the kinks worked out of the pistol. Since spring replacement, I have over 200 rounds with no issues, so I think I might have it.
Thank you all for your input and advice, Happy Shooting!
 
that is why Wolff puts one in every package.
The spring included in the recoil package is an "extra power", included mainly to prevent emotional damage to the owner of the pistol. Vaguely, it might function to prevent an AD if the muzzle hits the ground. Since f.p. springs in the new Colts are embarrassingly wimpy, using the new spring is a great idea...standard or extra power your choice. One spring should last several lifetimes, but it won't hurt to replace it as often as you wish.

Sparks
 
EGW firing pin stop fitting and removal tool is a must for a snug fitting stop.

I use a small punch to push the fp in and then move downwards. That gets the fps down far enough to remove. No tool needed. The fps does not have to fit so tight that you can't move it by hand. Snug, yes. It shouldn't fall out under its own weight.
 
As has already been mentioned, EGW makes an awesome oversized firing pin stop as well as Swenson. In addition to the self satisfaction you'll get having fit this by hand, the main benefits are the reduction in extractor clocking (which almost every production 1911 has) as well as a drop in perceived recoil. Not to mention this is also a pretty good excuse to get a quality extractor before you fit a new FP stop and correctly set the tension since majority are either heavily over or undersprung from the factory. I radius all mine to about 5/64" which I believe was what JMB intended before the Army decided to go with 7/32" post-1918 due to easier slide manipulation with the hammer down. Don't forget to countersink the rear of the stop and fit to the slide first before the extractor. Keep a Sharpie or can of Dychem handy with a clean file and take your time!

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