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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First Build Finished pics added

At least functionally. I will take some pics and post later, but just had to tell someone about it. Caspian frame, Kart barrel, and a mix of all other parts. I ran 50 rounds through it with only one 3 point jam. Light spring with my HG68 cast reloads running 4 grains of Bullseye. I am getting ready for the cosmetics now that I know it functions. I will zinc park it.
2 questions I have:

Are there any good posts on blending the rear frame to slide surfaces? (belt sander, file, sanding block?)

Same question on checkering? I am a little gray on how the first horizontal lines start up by the trigger guard. I guess I will search and look at some pics, that should clear it up.
 

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ddeaton,

Congrats on the work thus far - of course we're slobbering all over ourselves for pics ;)

My first build was a Caspian with Kart barrel - shoots like a house on fire! :rock:

I ordered that frame with the checkering already done - but am getting ready to do a build that has a smooth front strap - so thanks for the bringing up the checkering question (and to Mario for answering it).

kestrou
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thats a good link. I havent been on that web site for a while. Never enough time. He says to complete all the vertical lines before starting on the horizontals. I printed off his article and a few pics. I will post pics later tonight after the feast. I have Marvel's jig and a second frame that I think I will start on.

I assume that when blending the back of the slide and frame you do so with extractor installed? Or is this overkill? So far, its not too bad bone stock. I am debating leaving it be. Now that I have it shooting, its hard to tear it back down to finish it!
 

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ddeaton,

On getting the back of the slide and frame all smooth, I use a file (with the extractor installed) and then strips of sanding paper (picture "doing a shoe shine" :) ) and then emory cloth (again, "shoe shining").

If it's already in pretty good shape, then you can skip using a file and go straight to the sandpaper shoe-shining step.

Also, be sure to "tape down" the grip safety and then "blend" below the beavertail so that it's nice and smooth when you're shooting the pistol.

kestrou
 

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whats a three point jam? maybe my perspective is off but 1 jam in 1,000 is about as bad as I will tolerate in a gun, and even then not sure I'd be willing to carry it. (ok my sig fails to strip a round after 250 rds fired, over 1 month including 2 salt baths and no lube... but thats a mini torture test and with grease I can fire 500 over 5 weeks no problems and even then after that as in to carry its always clean/lubed)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
whats a three point jam? maybe my perspective is off but 1 jam in 1,000 is about as bad as I will tolerate in a gun, and even then not sure I'd be willing to carry it. (ok my sig fails to strip a round after 250 rds fired, over 1 month including 2 salt baths and no lube... but thats a mini torture test and with grease I can fire 500 over 5 weeks no problems and even then after that as in to carry its always clean/lubed)
I did not say I would tolerate the jam from this pistol, just stated it as a surprise. I did not assume this build would fire test as well as it did without tweaking. I am running a batch of reloads through it that are not perfect either. I grabbed a bag of stuff that is separated back from the perfect reloads just to use them up. I will run better stuff (including round ball, which I know will feed more reliably) through it when I get more time to do so. Also, this is not a carry gun, will only use it for informal target and test shooting. It is a test bed for my first build. I am more concerned with function and accuracy than cosmetics at this point.
 

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ddeaton,

On getting the back of the slide and frame all smooth, I use a file (with the extractor installed) and then strips of sanding paper (picture "doing a shoe shine" :) ) and then emory cloth (again, "shoe shining")
"Shoe shine" with emery cloth works great on round surfaces but you risk rounding off the edges on flat surfaces. If you want to keep flat surfaces flat, use emery cloth backed by something flat such as a piece of metal, hard wood, a file, etc.

Looks good so far ddeaton. What thumb safety is that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dave, Both safetys are Caspian's. I picked them up while at Camp Perry this year. I blended all in this morning, no problems here, as I have been building flintlocks for years and have no problem with metal work. I deburred the frame and slide for the last time and boxed the parts up. When I get back from working out of town in a couple weeks I will blast it at my shop, then park it. I started the checkering on my second frame also, and dont like the way its turning out. The Marvel jig isnt lining up with the finished lines after indexing. No time now to figure that out, will wait later. I will post pics later after the park job. I decided not to park the Kart barrel. I know it is not stainless, but if I cant live with blasted original finish oiled, then I will cold blue just the hood. Just thinking outloud.
 

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"Shoe shine" with emery cloth works great on round surfaces but you risk rounding off the edges on flat surfaces. If you want to keep flat surfaces flat, use emery cloth backed by something flat such as a piece of metal, hard wood, a file, etc.
Yup - and since there's nothing "really flat" on the back where we're talking about, you run the risk of sanding/buffing a smooth spot if you used a flat backing for this area.

Thus, I still go with "shoe-shining" in this area - just don't aggressively lean into the paper. ;)

kestrou
 
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