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Harley,

I've only fitted one, an Ed Brown. Tab was fine on mine (probably on all of them) but entire OD had to have material CAREFULLY removed in a symetrical fashion. I have a small lathe in my garage so it was no problem for me.

You might try centering the bushing on a bolt with a couple washers and nuts so that you make a mandrel. Chuck the end of the home-made mandrel in your drill and use this to rotate the bushing. Use strips of emery/crocus cloth to gradually remove material from the OD. Very time consuming, but with a little patience you could be confident of a good, tight fit. Keep your calipers handy and check the OD often. You can always take more off, but you can't put it back on... Enjoy.

Waldo1

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"'Necessity' is the plea for every infringement upon human freedom.
It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves."
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Harley-

I recently bought a Wilson's stainless steel bushing for my Kimber. The fit was PERFECT. It was a nice tight fit in the slide, and the ID was about ideal for the factory barrel. Of course tolerances vary, and you might need to do some minor fitting to yours, but I think the Wilson unit may be just the ticket for you.
 

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Measure slide ID at several points of the compass. They are not all concentric. Measure barrel OD the same way. I've seen out of round barrels also. Barrel and slide might need to be trued if they are out very much. Select your bushing from the Brownells catalog for closest fit based on your measurements. I have a mandrel made to chuck the bushing in a lathe for OD turning, but a good job can be done using the info in the above posts. Just don't forget to relieve the bushing for clearance to eliminate barrel spring at lockup.
 

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A follow-up question, if I may:

Waldo1 (or anyone with the answer), what is the best way for a shade-tree mechanic to check the runout on his drill? And how much runout can I tolerate while fitting a bushing?


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If God didn't want us to own guns, why did He make the 1911?
 
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