[RickB]

A longer link can cause more problems than it solves. The barrel/link combo has to fit the frame as well as the slide, and the longer link can do bad things to both. The American Rifleman did a step-by-step accurizing of a 1911, in an effort to determin how much of the total accuracy improvement was attributable to each step. They tightened slide-to-frame fit, installed a match bushing, welded-up and recut the barrel lugs (this was maybe thirty years ago, before the plethora of "match" barrels available today), etc. The simple step of installing only a long link did little or nothing to improve accuracy.

 

[1911Fishbulb]

It could also be that the bottom barrel lugs are worn to the point that they are not properly engaging with the slide stop pin. Take the barrel out, insert the pin and verify this area is tight when in the lock up position.

If, upon closer inspection, the barrel hood movement seems more side to side than up and down it is likely that the barrel hood to slide fitment is loose. One might expect this on a combat fit weapon as opposed to one fit for match shooting.

If you install a longer link I have read that you will need to ensure the barrel beds down on the frame completely in the unlock position. This is so the next chambering round doesn't get shave itself on the sharp edge of the barrel throat and cause a failure to chamber when firing.

 

[Greg Derr]

I have to agree, a longer link is not the answer. The link actually is not needed to lock the barrel in the up position, it is used to pull the barrel out of battery. If you hold your 1911 upside down and cycle the slide you will see the barrel is pulled up out of the battery position. To test that a link is the proper length try this and see if the barrel clears the slide. In fitting a barrel the link is usually not attached( see Wilson lug cutter). Too tall a link will change the timing of the pistols cycle. GREG DERR

 

[Bob Brown]

A long link is not the answer...I agree with this. If you want to stabilize that barrel, without welding or replacing with an ovesized barrel, just order a Group Gripper from Brownells and install it yourself. And while you're at it, get an EGW angle-bored barrel bushing and put it in there also. It'll make a large difference in your group size as well as making the pistol feel much tighter.

Bob

 

[stdon]

I agree with Bob Brown. With Group Griper and a simple bushing fit, it's pretty easy and cheap to to make a 4" gun into a 2" gun. Not to say that will always happen, but the change in mechanical repeatability is greatly improved.

Don

 

[Bob Hostetter]

If your barrel has 'bounce' or if you are able to push the barrel downward when the pistol is fully in battery a longer link is unlikely to solve your problem. The lower lugs are what pushes the barrel up into the slide when the pistol is in battery, the link's only job in a 1911 is to pull the barrel down as the slide cycles rearward.

The only way to properly solve your issue is to either weld up and recut the lower lugs or replace your barrel with one that is properly fit to your frame and slide. One other thing you can look into is your slide release pin. Make sure it is not badly worn where the lower lugs ride against it and make sure it isn't bent. Both of these issues can cause the problem you are talking about.

A longer link almost always causes more problems then it fixes...........