Yeah, I've been going through that forum for the past couple of days and haven't seen an answer. I guess I might have to break down and join another forum. It's funny, I've heard both that you have to take it to a smith and that you can do it yourself. Thanks.
The problem with free floating a 10/22 is that it only has one mounting screw. It's a good idea to bed the action and/or have one support point at the muzzle end of the stock - which is what I did.
If you are using a bull barrel, get yourself a 1 inch diameter dowel and wrap sandpaper around it, then sand the barrel channel out. Check periodically to see if it free floats. Once it does, you can decide what to do to support the weight of the barrel. On mine, I simply installed a piece of rubber inder the barrel close to the end of the stock. When the action is screwed down, it compresses the rubber slightly leaving a pretty constant tension on the barrel and reduces vibration.
I have a friend who is a retired smith and the way he taught me to bed a bull barreled 10/22 is to bed the barrel and float the action. The bull barrel is the stiffest and heaviest part of the equation. Hanging all that barrel from the aluminum action works for some but you might want to give this a try. My Ruger is bedded this way and it will shoot knots with the right ammo.
That's a creative solution. How much does floating a .22 barrel/action actually play into the accuracy? If I don't plan on competing, is it really worth the effort? My friend and I just want to do some accurate long, for a .22, range shooting. Say, around 50 yds.
I am a firm believer an inaccurate gun is not much fun, If you can spend a few dollars and a little time and make a gun more accurate it's worth it. It really doesn't matter if it's a .22 at 50 yards or a 6.5/.284 at a 1000.