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Howdy

I had a Delta back in the late 80s and I don't remember it being that fun to shoot, so it got traded on a Python. I got to missing having a 10 around three years ago and got a Glock 20. It was okay to shoot, but with full house loads, got tiring pretty quick. Since I cast and load, I didn't want to buy a barrel for it, so off it went to the show.

I came home from the gunshop with a P16/40. I bought a 10 Briley barrel and thought that the discussion was over. I worked around pre-ban and post ban mags and could not get the feeding down reliably.

After not having a 10 for another year, two months ago, I bought a Smith 1076 from KY Imports. I always wanted one after I heard the local FBI guys whine about losing them. I got it, shot it, and its okay. Nothing to write home about, but I can see how Political Correctness and the S&W clout got the development of the contract for this gun. Since its the only one on my block, I guess that I'll keep it (token SW auto in the collection?).

The good news was that I ran across a good deal on another Delta. And it shoots better than I remember or any of the other 10s that I've shot. Now to my comments and question!

In the late 80s, in the aftermath of the FBI Miami shootout, a 10 MM (or as the good Col Cooper named it, Centimeter) seemed and still seems like a really good idea.

1. What's next with the 10, and what exactly is a 10 Super?

2. If the Bureau wanted a 10mm sig when they developed the SW, why didnt't they just get one built on the P220 frame?

3. Delta, Ramped Barrel, why or why not?

4. Anyone want a good deal on a ramped Briley 5" 10mm barrel with about 80 rounds (one and two at a time) through it?

5. It is absolutely true that the 40s will function through the SW and the Delta, as I found out today, which makes me wonder if I will have extractor or other problems if i continue this practice.

6. Should I do a guide rod for the Delta, and how many pounds should the recoil spring and mainspring be rated? Suggestions are always welcome!
 

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I think this has benn addressed several timess, but shooting .40 Short and Wimpys in the mighty 10 may lead to accuracy and erosion problems. Since most straight walled auto cartriges headspace on the case mouth, the shorter .40 round will not seat in the chamber properly and have a decent amount of freebore before the bullet actually contacts the rifling. THis can have an effect on accuracy. Repeated shooting of hundreds of rounds might also lead to chamber erosion for the same reasons, the bullet will have to travel a short distance to engage the rifling upon discharge of the cartridge, which affects the gas seal the bullet would provide if it more closely engaged the rifling. It's sorta like a mini blow torch cutting into your chamber and rearmost rifling lands and grooves. THis is definitely an issue in centerfire rifles, maybe it would take longer to have such an effect in handguns shooting far less powerful loads. But why risk ruining a decent barrel?
 

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I'll try to answer your questions as best I can.

1. The 40 Super to the best of my knowledge is a necked down cartridge. Could be wrong about this.

2. I think a 220 10mm would be nice.

3. Does not need a ramped barrel to run consistently. Some like them, so do not. I for one do not care for them. My Delta and Caspian run fine with standard configuration barrels.

4. No thanks.

5. I do not think this is a good idea. Instead of spacing on the cartridge case mouth, it is now spacing on the extractor. I can see problems with this in the future.

6. I have found that a one piece FLGR w/ 20# recoil spring and a shok buff works great. I like the red heitt 0.090" thick buffs. If anyone wants an original two piece spring setup, let me know.
 

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What's with the 10?

The 10mm auto is making a mosdest, yet concrete comeback. It outstrips the .40 S&W in every facet of shooting, save for requiring a large (read: .45) sized pistol frame. If you can shoot the .45 Auto well, the 10mm will amaze, surprise and thrill you!

Whatever you do, do not listen to the naysayers of the 10mm. These individuals are wishing that they either knew how to shoot, or can't play with the "big boys." Simply forget them. If you can shoot a "L" frame S&W .357 Magnum, you'll love the Delta Elite.

Happy shooting!

Scott :)
 

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Hey, I know this is the Colt forum, But I wonder if you had a chance to compare the Delta w/ the Razorback?

I have no practical experience w/ the Delta, & have never even eye-balled the other, but seem to have a little 10mm jones going here lately, myself.
 

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I just got a Delta Elite as well.

I found Sean's site extremely useful and it influenced my decision on getting a Delta Elite.

One of the previous owners of mine already installed a shok buff but cut the large mainspring instead of getting a proper lighter weight spring. I'm about to correct that.

1) I've heard of a 10mm Magnum, but not a Super.

2) I'd want one.

3) Adds mass to the barrel and slows unlock of the action, but not nessisarily worth it or to a noticble degree.

4) Only if it were REALLY cheap ;)

5) Headspacing and erosion as mentioned. Since you already reload, just make 10mm light loads. The gun will appreciate you for it.

6) I'd like just a metal standard guide rod but I'm having trouble finding one. I'm not convinced a FLGR is an improvment and I want to keep my stock plug. Sean's site says 20 lbs for full 10mm loads if you go with a shok buff and you should do some other things to slow unlock time to reduce battering in both directions.

My current plan is:
Wolff 20# recoil spring, 25# mainspring, EGW oversized firing pin stop, and a metal standard spring guide if I can find one.

If I still feel the need to slow down unlock times more and decide I have an unlimited budget I'll get a tungston plug to increase slide weight, a ramped Schuemann Ultimatch AET barrel and maybe a EGW bushing as comp which should jump slide weight quite a bit and, of course, be a comp.

I want to keep it where I can return it to origional condition so I'm going to avoid anything that will require modifing the frame or slide which may disqualify a ramped barrel, I'm not sure. This is my 1st 1911.
 

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40 S&W

I agree with with J. Forsyth on shooting 40 S&W in the 10mm. The short round is headspacing on the extractor. It will do a couple of things I just can't predict which first.

1. Trash your extractor
2. Or maybe something really nasty

Do I think this will happen on the first box you try...Nope doubt it serously, but several hundred rounds might suprise you in an unpleasant way.

I have the cost of 10mm ammo blues also and until I get back up next to my reloading presses, it is expensive. To makes matters worse I just got back from the range, and recovered only 10-15% of the brass I shot today. Most went three to five lanes over and 8-10 ft. forward down the firing line. I thought my 38 Super in a Commander was bad at chucking brass halfway across the county. So yes I would like to be able to shoot cheap 40 Ammo. But the best bet seems to be get a new barrel, and recoil spring and change it out to shoot 40. Yeah new mags to, and it might need a little tweaking to get it to work right cause the 10mm doesnt need a ramped barrel I have heard the 40 gets benefit from the ramp.

I am pretty fussy on how well I shoot and a 40 round going the about 1/4 inch of the 10mm chamber is a lot of freebore and I doubt the accuracy would be very good if you tried to shot 40 in a stock Delta.
 

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Dear Baker...

Dear Baker: The Delta Elite is (was) a wonderful pistol. I simply could not afford one while thay were available NIB.

Today, I own a DWF Razorback, (RZ-10 #084) an EAA Witness, a iAi Javalina and a S&W Model 610. (6.5" barrel.) These pistols (and the lone revolver of the crowd) are all providing "yeoman service."

I am not disappointed in the least with any facet of the Razorback's quality or service. IMHO, this pistol or the DWF Pointman are the closest you will get to duplicating the original Delta Elite in both fit and finish.

All the best,

Scott
 
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