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Discussion Starter #1
hey all,
just spent the last several hours researching garands here on the site and elsewhere. the bottom line for me is that i prefer elegance and performance, hence, my personal choices for the 1911 and the garand. the main issue i have seen so far regarding the garand is the availability of ammo. i have tried to research the specifics for the 30/06 reloads for the garand but am so far drawing a relative blank. my eventual plan will call for the quality reloading press/equipment and plenty of practice. i guess the question at this point is that if the person is willing to go through the necessities, would the reloads serve in the garand? i ask this because all the info i found on the garand is about the availability of ammo but if a person relaods then would this not be a moot argument? or am i missing something? take care.
 

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garand shooting

if you haven't already found it, try battlerifles.com for information on reloading and available ammunition for the Garand.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks, but the link is down

john,
thank you for the info. i did come across that site about halfway through my research, but the bbs is down there or something. i guess what i would really like to find is something like the m1911.org site with all info clearly outlined. it is kind of difficult to utilize forum searches when just starting out on getting info because don't really know what to ask. i will keep trying that site though.
 

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Theo,

I own a Garand and had it tuned up for Highpower rifle, to get me used to the "game" and because I just liked it. Since 30.06 isn't commonly available as USGI surplus any more, I found the best thing to do is simply reload for the round, using military brass, winchester large rifle primers, 4895 powder and depending on if you want to plink or want the best performance, any surplus ball you can get or 168 grain high performance HPBT. Ultimately though, the best 600 yard performance I had with mine was with a 175 grain bullet.

Here are two good sites to purchase the brass , powder and bullets from:

http://www.gibrass.com/
http://www.wideners.com/

There are others, but this should get you started. I'd recommend buying the deprimed standard brass (You will likely have to remove the military crimp, not difficult with the right tools.) and only buy the match brass if you intend to compete, though to be honest, the Garand is not accurate enough to compete against the AR15 accuracy wise, but it will get you started and force you to do things right (If you don't, you won't be hitting a lot.) from a shooting basics standpoint.

Hope this helps,

Dave in Oakwood, GA
 

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Try www.masterpostemple.bravepages.com Master po has some reprinted M1` reloading info from the NRA, Start about 10%below what he shows for a starting load, The M1 garand is somewhat limited as to what powder and bullets it will shoot. Never shoot a slow burning powder like 4350 in a M1. This will cause too high port pressure and can damage your op-rod if used long enough,IMR 4895, IMR 4064, are excellent powders for the M1. Cases. You'll want to watch your cases carefully when loading. Usually, you'll get about 5 loadings before they start stretching to the point of a case head seperation. (you will also want to keep a close eye on case legnth as well.) This can be fatal in a M1. The reason I say this, is because what could happen is this; you fire a round, case head seperates, bolt continues back pulling out the casehead, rest of case in chamber, bolt now moving forward, pickes up another loaded round, round getts jammed in chamber, firing pin continued forward with enough force to ingnite primer, loaded round goes off on unlocked bolt. Bullets; I've been using 147gr surplus bullets with fairly decent accuracy 150,168,gr bullets serria, hornady, will be accurate in a M1 if you do your part and the barrel is in decent shape. It's not hard to load for a M1. you just have to stay within the parameters of what will work in the rifle, and it's gas system. And inspect your brass carefully.Keep track of how many times you've reloaded them, Use a primer pocket uniformer as part of your brass prep, this will make sure the primers are seated below flush, and help prevent slam- fires. Brass is cheap, Hospitial bills are'nt..........
 

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Discussion Starter #6
cases

if i understand, big if mind you, would it be correct to say the case might not last more than five reloads if everything is kept within specs? thanks and take care.
 

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it depends on your load, and the condition of the chamber of the rifle. there are guys that load brass over 10 times for their M1's. just keep an eye on your brass, and watch for hi primers.
 

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I've got some 06 GI brass with at least 10 reloads on them. Rather ragged looking as the extractor is hard on the extracting groove. (rim if you like)

I reload for 2 M-1 Garands. One an '06, the other a 308. This is the only way I can afford to compete. The 308 M-1 is my across the course rifle the other I use for John C. Garand matches. The Garand maches are a real hoot, find one and shoot it, and get hooked.

For the '06 Garand I have found a good load is 46.5 grs of IMR 4064 behind a 155 gr. SMK "Palma" in a GI case with a CCI 200 primer. Each rifle is different and yours might like something else. Most guys seem to have M-1's that like the IMR 4064. On the other hand, My 308 hates it and likes IMR 4895.

I have also had good luck using Speer 130 gr. Hp's They shoot very well out of an M-1, look funny but they shoot good.
 

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Another vote for IMR4895/H4895 and IMR4064. I have a Douglas barreled M1 match rifle that shoots 168gr. Sierra Matchkings very accuratly using 4895 at 100-300 yards. At 600 yards it is most accurate using 180gr. Sierra Matchkings with the 4064. If your new to reloading I would suggest investing in a good single stage press such as a RCBS Rockchucker and a few good reloading manuals from the bullet and powder manufactures. As far as brass case life, I get about 7 to 10 reloads per case. The important thing to watch for is cracks appearing at the junction of the case body wall and the case head that indicate that the case head is about to separate.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thank you all

lefty, tim, matchgrade, and ralph,
thank you all very much. i feel a lot more comfortable with the project now. as i said earlier, there is just something about the timelessness of proven designs such as the 1911 and the garand. progress in firearms is good, but to hold a piece of history and to know there is still serious competitiveness and utility in such engineering artwork makes the entire project so well worth doing.

i will definitely go the slow route till i learn more about the process of handloading. ultimately, i plan on loading all my ammo for the rifles and the pistols so i can shoot to my hearts content....now i just have to decide on what shotgun i need to plan for to complete my arsenal....hmmmm
 

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theo03
Reloading for the Garand is not all that hard. The web sites listed are good ones. Just want to make one thing clear. The Garand is powder sensitive. Too slow or fast and it can damage the op-rod. Master Po has it all lined out on his web page.




Stacey
 

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Keep in mind that surplus brass is heavier (less volume) than commercial brass, so be careful when you use other people's recipes. With surplus brass, you'll need to back off a little.

You'll probably have to trim every 2nd reload, and you should be using a Full Length resizing die. If your die isn't set quite right, you'll be overworking your brass and they'll fail sooner than they should. A case headspace gage is handy for setting the die correctly. I toss my brass after 5. Commercial brass won't last as long as surplus cause it's thinner.

If you load a 147gr FMJ to 2750fps w/ 4895 or 4064, you've got the right load. The 168's @ ~2600fps are almost always a lot more accurate.
 

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I found that purchasing the Surplus ammo is about the same cost as reloading. Actually just a few dollars more but if you include the time then it was not worth it for me. As a result, I keep stocking up on the Surplus ammo and keep saving the brass. Once it runs out then I will start reloading.

Since the Garand is used for plinking accuracy is just fine with the Surplus ammo.
 

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"...would the reloads serve in the garand?" Yep. I shoot nothing but in mine. There's little or no surplus .30-06 left anyway. It's the only way to get the best accuracy from your rifle. Work up a load using 168 grain HPBT match bullets and IMR 4064 powder and you'll forget all about surplus.
 

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Nothing but reloads in my Garand, as well. I've been using IMR 4895 and Sierra 168gr Match Kings.
 
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