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Girsan MCP35 PI - My Observations

8553 Views 120 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  TNorris
I picked up a Girsan MCP35-PI from my FFL yesterday afternoon. It cost $540 from a no-auction sale on Gun Broker... after Illinois Sales Tax, Shipping and my FFL fee it totaled $662.40. I am happy.


My intention is, and has always been, to harvest the PI short slide and mate it with a spare BHP Alloy Frame. Last night I shipped it off to BHSS along with the FN Alloy Frame host pistol... there was no need test fire before shipping as she will be vastly improved, one way or another. I did take a quick look and weighed some parts to determine suitability for this this project. Some notes below are things I am looking at for a better hybrid carry gun.


TRIGGER -
The mag disconnect is in place and it is pretty rough, but not too heavy. The BHSS trigger with magazine eject spring will replace the stock trigger. The supplied magazine did not drop free.

  • Ten pull average: 7# 3oz
  • High: 8# 1.2oz
  • Low: 6# 9.7oz

SLIDE -
The slide is indeed as sexy as a BHP should be... the FM Detective Slide is not and this has always bothered me for no good reason other than a foolish sense of aesthetics. It just doesn't look right.

The complete PI slide is about 27 grams lighter than the FM Detective. Losing yet another ounce in carry weight is nice. Below I am comparing PI slide weights to the FM Detective Slide weight ( fitted with a BHSS barrel and night sights).


  • COMPLETE SLIDE: 387grams (vs 409grams/FM)
  • RECOIL SPRING & GUIDE ROD: 21grams (vs 18grams/FM)
  • BARREL: 81grams (vs 81 grams/BHSS-FM)
  • SLIDE: 284 grams (vs 311 grams/FM)

This slide features the MKlll type 2 (paddle style) Sear Lever. Mine is silver on the paddle... not sure why it is not blued or even if it is identical to the FN part. I hope Girsan has kept things like these standard to the BHP platform.


RECOIL SPRING & GUIDE ROD -
These parts are not identical to the FM Detective parts, much to my dismay. The Guide Rod is shorter by an unmeasured 1/8 inch or so. The recoil spring is a longer slightly stiffer flat wire single spring rather than the clever dual spring arrangement which FM employed.

With the FM Guide Rod and Spring assembly in place in the Girsan PI slide, I cannot lock the slide back for disassembly due the extra length of the FM Guide Rod.

The Guide Rod is of a design similar to the new BHSS design... open ended where it contacts the slide rather than the standard closed circle. If you have ever played with the FM Detective Slide you know how it is difficult to remove and install the Guide Rod/Spring Assembly. On the Girsan PI, it was even more difficult to remove or install this assembly. In addition... removing the Recoil Spring from the Guide Rod was so difficult that I could not do it. I moved on.


GIRSAN PI SLIDE FIT to FN BHP ALLOY FRAME -
The complete Girsan PI slide seems to fit on all three Alloy Frame FM pistols I have. I could not dry fire on the BHP Alloy Frame which is mated to the FM Detective Slide. It did dry fire just fine on the other two other BHP Alloy Frames. It slides back and forth cocking the hammer very nicely on all three frames... I really think it fits.


Overall it is a good looking pistol with usable sights similar to the Tisas or SA-35. Mine will get a full upgrade to SFS, BHSS trigger and more so I am not concerned with the standard slide release, trigger pull, etc. I think this will make for a sexy looking light-weight short-slide BHP carry pistol. Worse case... she will be all Girsan but upgraded with BHSS parts, the way I like my BHPs to be.

Last note:
She comes in a functional blue plastic case with one 15 round MecGar magazine, a wire bore brush, Instruction Manual and a cable lock. My only picture thus far is displayed below. I will add to this when she returns from BHSS.

I have been waiting for quite some time to find another "Detective" sized slide!



Cheers,

Tim

@ rellascout - thanks for the availability tip!


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Thinking seriously about trigger work at my local gunsmith or at least having the disconnect removed.
Want to get better at shooting it first tho. I only have money for either range gas and ammo OR gunsmith work right now
(am not about to disassemble the trigger mech. myself with my current level of mechanical knowledge re: the hi power, I seen too many people bring 'projects' into the shop in shoeboxes) :)
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Well, CRAP. I just noticed after 4 more boxes of ammo at the range that the 'lefty' (i.e., right side of gun) side of the ambi safety lever has play in it. (I am lefty so its gotten use).
Otherwise, I love the gun and intend to keep shooting it. Is there a fix to this? The 'lefty' side seems to fit around a pin that sticks out from the frame and is then secured by what looks like something going thru that at a 90 degree angle to the axis of the pin it attached to.
Is there a way to tighten this up or should I just get a better safety installed?
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Absolutely. Get an SFS ;-P
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Well, CRAP. I just noticed after 4 more boxes of ammo at the range that the 'lefty' (i.e., right side of gun) side of the ambi safety lever has play in it. (I am lefty so its gotten use).
Otherwise, I love the gun and intend to keep shooting it. Is there a fix to this? The 'lefty' side seems to fit around a pin that sticks out from the frame and is then secured by what looks like something going thru that at a 90 degree angle to the axis of the pin it attached to.
Is there a way to tighten this up or should I just get a better safety installed?
This is also an issue with the OEM Mark III ambi safety after it has been thumbed a few 1000 times. Easy fix on the FN gun. If you change out the roll pin that holds the right side safety lever in place, this usually tightens up the connection. Since the Girsan safety is based on the FN Mark III, I suspect this will fix your "loose" lever.
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Thank you! If I continue to use it until I get around to doing that, will it damage the safety? I had hoped to go back to the range tomorrow, and local gunshop is not open til tuesday...
Thank you! If I continue to use it until I get around to doing that, will it damage the safety? I had hoped to go back to the range tomorrow, and local gunshop is not open til tuesday...
I don't think it will cause any permanent issue for you to shoot it without tightening up the right side safety lever. Just visually confirm that the safety is completely engaged on the left hand side before you carry it in Condition 1.
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I don't think it will cause any permanent issue for you to shoot it without tightening up the right side safety lever. Just visually confirm that the safety is completely engaged on the left hand side before you carry it in Condition 1.
thank you. Intend to get it looked at when I can, but do not have spare pins lying about. Will be having my local gunsmith help with that. New to hi powers tho always wanted one!
This is also an issue with the OEM Mark III ambi safety after it has been thumbed a few 1000 times. Easy fix on the FN gun. If you change out the roll pin that holds the right side safety lever in place, this usually tightens up the connection. Since the Girsan safety is based on the FN Mark III, I suspect this will fix your "loose" lever.
I don't think it will cause any permanent issue for you to shoot it without tightening up the right side safety lever. Just visually confirm that the safety is completely engaged on the left hand side before you carry it in Condition 1.
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I received my Girsan PI this week and began to study it after work. Initial impressions are good so far and seem to align with the other comments on this thread.

I have tested the slide on my current Alloy frame project on the bench. This gun is a 245 series made in 1980. The slide to frame fit was snug but it cycled fine. I oiled it up and ran 2 boxes of 124gr FMJ through it. I had some early FTF issues as the slide would not come back into full battery on a couple of occasions but a quick pop to the back of the slide with the heel of my off hand put it back into place. Later in the session it smoothed out. I feel confident enough with it that I will convert this current Alloy project to use this PI slide and then troubleshoot any additional issues. I will keep everyone posted.

I also tried the slide on one of my FM Detective frames. I had to change out the extractor because the FM extractor is wider than the FN/Girsan version. After I did this, the slide went on fine and actually shot well. It looked so good I was tempted to just leave it on that frame and buy another PI to scavenge for my alloy project. But cooler heads and smaller wallets prevailed.

Finally, I tried the same PI slide on my current EDC which is an alloy frame with the FM Detective slide. This gun is a 215 series. The slide to frame fit was too tight to accept the PI slide. This gun has been cerakoted after the customizations so I am sure that is part of the problem but I did not want to damage my EDC so I didn't tinker with it any more.

So 2 out of 3 isn't bad.

Scott

Edit: I added pics of the Girsan PI on the custom FM Detective frame.
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Just picked up my Girsan PI today. Got it from Kentucky Gun Co. for $472.99 including shipping. There was some type of “shipping insurance” for $5.91. I did not get hit up for sales tax or any other fees. Seemed like a great deal.

Inserted one of my NOS Browning “mouse trap” 15 round mags. These mags have some type of anti friction coating that helps to smooth out the trigger pull. I am using these mags in my BHP Practical, my full size Girsan MC35 and now this PI model. I love the way they drop free with that “mouse trap” system.

I do have a question about removing the recoil spring assembly during take down. So far I have not been able to twist it or lift it far enough from the barrel to remove it. I do not want to break or bend anything so I will have to play with it some more.

Really like the feel and looks of this gun and am looking forward to hitting the range with it.
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Edit: I added pics of the Girsan PI on the customer FM Detective frame.
Glad to hear most are frame to slides are fitting and functioning well while shooting. The FM Detective with the PI slide looks great. Perfect match of the finishes.
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I do have a question about removing the recoil spring assembly during take down. So far I have not been able to twist it or lift it far enough from the barrel to remove it. I do not want to break or bend anything so I will have to play with it some more.

Really like the feel and looks of this gun and am looking forward to hitting the range with it.
I have not yet found an easy method for removal of the recoil spring. I have taken it out and replaced several times, a couple times no issues, a few other times, it has been difficult to manipulate out. I try keeping it low, moving to the side of the barrel lug, pushing the barrel lug (if there is some play) in the opposite direction. Replacing, just moving it around, sort of hit or miss, trying to align the end of the rod with barrel opening. Again, trying to keep the rod low. I have also tried with the cylinder and slide recoil spring tool. It is easier on the hands, but seems to get in the way of the barrel lug, so not an ideal solution either.
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There is nothing in the owners manual about any special field strip procedures for the PI model recoil spring system. I finally got mine out by using a brass punch in the assembly hole to push it forward and then work it out. I had to use the same tool to reassemble it. Sort of a PITA but doable.

Trooper Joe
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I have not yet found an easy method for removal of the recoil spring. I have taken it out and replaced several times, a couple times no issues, a few other times, it has been difficult to manipulate out. I try keeping it low, moving to the side of the barrel lug, pushing the barrel lug (if there is some play) in the opposite direction. Replacing, just moving it around, sort of hit or miss, trying to align the end of the rod with barrel opening. Again, trying to keep the rod low. I have also tried with the cylinder and slide recoil spring tool. It is easier on the hands, but seems to get in the way of the barrel lug, so not an ideal solution either.
There is nothing in the owners manual about any special field strip procedures for the PI model recoil spring system. I finally got mine out by using a brass punch in the assembly hole to push it forward and then work it out. I had to use the same tool to reassemble it. Sort of a PITA but doable.

Trooper Joe
I have found rotating it to the narrow side and getting the guide rod into the hole in the slide then allows me to rotate it into place. It is still awkward but it seems to make it easier.
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I have not yet found an easy method for removal of the recoil spring. I have taken it out and replaced several times, a couple times no issues, a few other times, it has been difficult to manipulate out. I try keeping it low, moving to the side of the barrel lug, pushing the barrel lug (if there is some play) in the opposite direction. Replacing, just moving it around, sort of hit or miss, trying to align the end of the rod with barrel opening. Again, trying to keep the rod low. I have also tried with the cylinder and slide recoil spring tool. It is easier on the hands, but seems to get in the way of the barrel lug, so not an ideal solution either.
It is definitely harder to get in and out than the FM Detective version. Also I noticed that the felt recoil is a little stouter with the PI slide with than the FM Detective slide. Is that because of the single recoil spring verses the dual recoil spring? Who knows but it does "feel" different when you shoot it (all things equal . . same frame, ammo, mag, etc.)
...Also I noticed that the felt recoil is a little stouter with the PI slide with than the FM Detective slide. Is that because of the single recoil spring verses the dual recoil spring? Who knows but it does "feel" different when you shoot it (all things equal . . same frame, ammo, mag, etc.)
Yes, dual spring RSA's dampen rearward thrust. More "dwell" time.
Yes, dual spring RSA's dampen rearward thrust. More "dwell" time.
That makes sense. I kinda figured that is what might be going on.
I'm holding out for the MCP35 PI Ops which is coming out later this year. It has an extended beavertail, G10 grips, straight trigger, & beveled magwell. Basically, the "little brother" to my MC P35 Match, but has the ugly underside rail.
I am too. I especially like the extended beavertail grip , and the G10 grips and the Magazine Safety removed I that model. That is a BIG PLUS . BUT Not a fan of the rail . None of my 1911’s have a rail.
Would love to see and hold one before buying ..
My hands are on the medium side not beefy. Not sure if I would need the extended beavertail but I sure don’t want hammer bite !!!!
Respectfully
JoeDice
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Anyone else try to it their Girsan PI into high quality BHP leather. I can report that it does not fit into a Milt Spark VMII. It does fit into a Garrett leather lined Kydex. This tells me that the slide is slightly thicker than the FN/Browning. The Garrett is a much more forgiving fit than the Milt Sparks. I would be interested if anyone else has tried to fit it into high quality leather. This will be another consideration as people move toward customizing them for carry. The FMs required different leather. It appears that the Girsan PI might be the same.
Anyone else try to it their Girsan PI into high quality BHP leather. I can report that it does not fit into a Milt Spark VMII. It does fit into a Garrett leather lined Kydex. This tells me that the slide is slightly thicker than the FN/Browning. The Garrett is a much more forgiving fit than the Milt Sparks. I would be interested if anyone else has tried to fit it into high quality leather. This will be another consideration as people move toward customizing them for carry. The FMs required different leather. It appears that the Girsan PI might be the same.
Mine fits nicely into the Privateer Leather holster I have been using for my FM Detective. I stretched the holster a bit by wrapping a cheap plastic bag around the pistol, per Wes at Privateer, and left it in the holster for a short while, but longer than Wes suggested. Retention with the Girsan PI and my FN BHPs seem quite adequate. I had Wes make the holster shorter and a bit roomier to accommodate the FM Detective.

My Girsan PI and FNs also fit well in a kydex BHP holster which will not accommodate the FM Detective. The FM slide is too thick for the pistol to be fully inserted into the kydex holster. My brief check led me to believe the Girsan was more similar in slide width to the FNs.

I will be sure to fully check it out when my pistol returns.


Cheers,

Tim
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