1911Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Do you guys use grease or oil on your 1911's? Is Hoppes oil OK, or what do you recommend? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,403 Posts
For a prolonged range session, I like to use a combination of Tetra Grease and Militec 1 oil. Hoppes oil is ok, but tends to evaporate after 50 rounds or so.

For a strictly carry gun, in warm weather, Slide Glide. In cold weather, Eezox or Rem Dry lube.

For lubes I like:
Slide Glide
Tetra Grease
Militec 1 oil
Weapon Shield Oil
FP-10
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
I have thrown away all the gun oils and use a fully synthetic oil like Mobil-1 or Amsoil instead. Use the lightest weight one you can find, usually 0W-xx. For $5 at Sprall-Mart, it will last you a life time. It will not bake off, burn and turn into crud, makes it easy to clean, will not dry out, stays where applied, safe for all finishes, and will not require reapplication during heavy use.

I got turned on to it when I asked Cobray what to use on a class-3.

The only grease I use is on a M1A. Other than that, everything get's the Mobil-1 (or equiv) treatment.

Try it - you will throw out all the gun 'snake' oils out after you do.

You can save your little bottles from you favoriate snake oil and just refill it with Mobil-1 :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,262 Posts
I use both on all my firearms. Tetra grease on the rails and other high-friction spots, Rem-Oil everywhere else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,443 Posts
I'm almost out of my supply of Break Free, and I'll be getting the Mobil-1 after that, I use Dow 33 in all the hard to reach places when I do a detail strip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
Figsy said:
Do you guys use grease or oil on your 1911's?
Like leade45, I use both. For field-strip/clean just a thin film of Wilson Combat grease on the slide rails, barrel hood at breach face, upper and lower barrel lugs and ID of barrel bushing. Then a light application of Wilson Combat oil everywhere else.

For detail-strip/clean I'll do all the above plus a thin film of Wilson Combat grease on the hammer hooks and sear engagement surfaces; light film of Wilson Combat oil on each side of the hammer and sear at their frame contact points. Dab a slight amount of oil on all pins/axles and the thumb/grip safety contact points. With a little lube a good 1911 will run just about forever.

One note: if you live in an extremely cold climate and the gun will be exposed to low temps you may want to substitute a light-weight oil everywhere I've specified grease above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Flame Red said:
I have thrown away all the gun oils and use a fully synthetic oil like Mobil-1 or Amsoil instead. Use the lightest weight one you can find, usually 0W-xx. For $5 at Sprall-Mart, it will last you a life time. It will not bake off, burn and turn into crud, makes it easy to clean, will not dry out, stays where applied, safe for all finishes, and will not require reapplication during heavy use.

I got turned on to it when I asked Cobray what to use on a class-3.

The only grease I use is on a M1A. Other than that, everything get's the Mobil-1 (or equiv) treatment.

Try it - you will throw out all the gun 'snake' oils out after you do.

You can save your little bottles from you favoriate snake oil and just refill it with Mobil-1 :)
I use S-L-I Liquid Gunsmith, which is a full synthetic, developed for NASA and pretty much the predecessor of Mobil-1. Some of the same chem engineers that developed S-L-I (Seal Lock International), also worked on Mobil-1.

When my supply of S-L-I runs out, I'll go to Mobil 1 since I run it in my truck anyway.

Good stuff!

Likewise, only my M1A gets grease.

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,319 Posts
science

I use a dab of Tetragrease on my sear/hammer 'interface', and BreakFree CLP on everything else.
On my revolvers and autos and, yes, 1911 autos.
Works in the blowing sand and grit and rain and snow and sub-zero cold and dirty guns and thousands of rds fired without cleaning and I have tried most everything but BreakFree CLP has proven itself repeatedly to me.

I like Corrosion X for rust prevention.

I like Prolix for certain special and specific applications, but in general I do not consider it an acceptable lubricant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
661 Posts
I use Tetra grease on 1911 rails and Weapon Shield on everything else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,753 Posts
Weapon Shield, EEZOX, or Breakfree CLP have worked well for me. All are top-notch cleaners, lubricants, and protectants.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
465 Posts
Tempest said:
Just get Weapon Shield, all you need.


:scratch:
+1
All thats needed is in the bottle.Simple to use as it protects and lubes as you clean.The stuff is very slick and long lasting,so no need to use anything else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Tempest said:
Just get Weapon Shield, all you need.


:scratch:
Didn't mean to be so confusing. LOL

The oil was developed for NASA some years ago. It's properties for bonding to metal, lubrication and corrosion resistance also made it ideal for guns, from BP to FA.
Mobil 1 is similar but for use in engines. I had called the factory one Sat and one of the engineers answered the phone. I had wanted to add some SLI to my engine oil. He advised against that since it wasn't designed for the high compression and heat of a combustion chamber, but Mobil 1, with the same technology, was.

Google Seal Lock International or S-L-I Liquid Gunsmith. The company was recently bought out and the web page will appear for an instant then go to another site. Even had a NRA discount.

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
I Googled them when you mentioned the product but could not find anything useful about it. No MSDS or mention of what makes this product stand out. $15 for 4oz (+ shipping) is way expensive. You can get 16oz of WS-CLP for that.

Still not sure as to the technology link between this product and M1 that you are talking about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
826 Posts
Flame Red said:
I have thrown away all the gun oils and use a fully synthetic oil like Mobil-1 or Amsoil instead. Use the lightest weight one you can find, usually 0W-xx. For $5 at Sprall-Mart, it will last you a life time. :)
Me three. If it holds up in the engine, it should be more than enough on a gun.

I try to wipe it down really well if it's on a carry gun and use a touch of slide guide on the rails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Tempest said:
I Googled them when you mentioned the product but could not find anything useful about it. No MSDS or mention of what makes this product stand out. $15 for 4oz (+ shipping) is way expensive. You can get 16oz of WS-CLP for that.

Still not sure as to the technology link between this product and M1 that you are talking about.
LOL, neither am I. I'm just recalling bits and pieces of a conversation I had over 10 yrs ago with an engineer that happend to be in the shop on a Sat.

I learned of it from the BPCR crowd because it was said to prevent corrosion from Black Powder and salt air with one application among other things.

Worked as advertised, especially on my deep sea rigs that were constantly exposed to salt air in Key Largo. The guns were in a safe, so not much of a test.

Expensive, yes, but they had a buy 1 get 1 sale in '92 or '93 and out of the 4 bottles I got, 2 are still unopened. I still have some in mine and my Dad's is about 1/2 full. A very little goes a long way.

Sadly, it was never in continuious production and doesn't appear to be available now.

But M1 is! Much cheaper too!

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
I also talked to an engineer for Mobile several years ago when I was first considering using synthetic oil in my "old" 1983 Harley. He said regardless of what brand I buy synthetic oil will make my Shovelhead sound like new and he was right. Runs cooler, starts easier and upped my smooth cruising speed by a few mph - and it is what I now use in all of my guns.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
I have to second+ the BreakFree CLP. I use Moble One in my truck and AMSOIL in my motorcycle. I am sure Moble One is fine but this begs the question why not try AMSOIL over Moble One? :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
CryingWolf said:
I have to second+ the BreakFree CLP. I use Moble One in my truck and AMSOIL in my motorcycle. I am sure Moble One is fine but this begs the question why not try AMSOIL over Moble One? :p
Since you use both, you are in a perfect position to do a side by side.

Next time you need to add a qt, save an oz or so of each and let us know if you like one over the other.

Rob
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top