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Discussion Starter #1
Trigger spur broke, sear spring broke.
Replaced and now the grip safety is not working when cocked.
I depress the trigger but not the grip safety and it can still fire, needs pressure but still does.
Thumb safety on, no issue.
I can't find pics or videos of good enough quality or explanation on how to correct this issue without getting a new grip safety and how to verify it will come with an over sized trigger bar extension to be able to custom fit it or how.

Could use a little help before I have to send it back to RIA for repair and be without my favorite girl for so long.... :scratch::scratch:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
i understand the basics of it, but it the grip safety spur is not big enough to keep the trigger from release the hammer, how do you correct it and know the replacement grip safety will be oversized enough to custom fit it?
 

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Sounds like the grip safety is either now being pushed out far enough by the new sear spring for the arm to block the trigger or that the new trigger's bow is longer and is not allowing the arm to move behind it as the grip safety tries to swing all the way out.

If it is the sear spring then bend the right leaf out more.

If it is the trigger then that will depend on if it is an adjustable bow with tabs or not. If it has tabs and you bent them to remove take up then you bent them to far. If there are no tabs then you will need to file the arm to allow it to clear the trigger bow.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
.I'll disassemble and try to view the clearances...gotta be one or the other. trigger bow backside or the grip cut to the trigger bar...dang, I wish I had one of those fixtures to pin the pieces together. May have to just make one...
 

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Does it feel like the grip safety is completely disengaging? Have you tried trying to pull the bottom of the grip safety out to see if it disengages? When you cock the hammer does it push down on the top of the grip safety? Perhaps the new spur on the hammer is too long for the grip safety. Which RIA do you have? What hammer did you use to replace the broken hammer?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
New what is it.... bullet proof Wilson hammer spur and new Ed Brown spring.
Trigger is an Ed Brown Aluminum light weight.
It has to have something to do with the trigger, grip safety interface.
It works perfect, but if I pull too hard on the trigger without the grip safety engaged, it still lets the hammer fall. All other tests are fine. It functions great other than that.
ACCURATE.
Something with the trigger bar/grip safety fitting that has to be tuned. Grr. I need a good DETAILED description of how the trigger bar and grip safety interface with CLEAR pictures, not some fuzzy out of view overall picture.. arg. arg. I am missing my parrot arg...
 

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Take the hammer, sear and disconnect out of the gun. Heck even take the slide off. Leave the trigger installed and put the sear spring, msh and grip safety back in.

Now look down into the opening that the hammer normally resides in. You should be able to see the back of the trigger bar and the grip safety arm.

If only the corner of the arm is getting behind the trigger bow then take the trigger out only and check to see if the grip safety is now able to swing out farther. Might be a good idea to mark how far out the grip safety is out from the frame before removing the trigger.

If the grip safety can then swing out farther then a tiny bit of material will need to be removed from the end of the arm.

If in this case the grip safety was already swinging out as far as it could then what Airwing sain in your twin thread would apply.

Assuming you've already checked the grip safety arm to the trigger bow and it is intact.

You can lower the grip safety where it will contact the trigger bow (you call it a trigger bar). You will need to lightly remove material from the contact area of the grip safety to mainspring housing (both areas). Go slowly checking the result frequently. A little goes a long ways just a couple of passes with a fine file. That will lower the grip safety onto the trigger, if you go overboard your in the market for a new Grip safety and mainspring housing.
 

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Grip Safety

Just found this redundant post, I agree with remanaz, look over everything closely before removing material. New "drop in" parts may need fitting.
 

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I need a good DETAILED description of how the trigger bar and grip safety interface with CLEAR pictures, not some fuzzy out of view overall picture..
Here is the arm of the GS and trigger bow.

 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Nice pic.
I have to do a nice slow detailed dis assembly. Parts out of the frame and reinstall in a wood block with correct pin holes to see how the action is interacting and where I really need to ... trim to fit.

I do appreciate the feedback, gave me some ideas.

Thanks all !!!:rock:
 

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I applaud your continued desire to not let this defeat you and to continue to learn. But it is going to be very hard to get the trigger track, inner frame back strap rails, and the pin holes all correct on that block of wood. What you are wanting to do will need to be perfectly dimensioned. There is no close is good enough here. It will need to be absolutely perfect to correctly see what is happening. Sometimes even 1 mil is enough to make the difference between working and not working.

Perhaps it might be time to either find a local 1911 owner with some knowledge of the inner workings or take it to a gunsmith.
 

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L78 is Roscoe Rules.
President of his local HOA.

Dioclose, sure looks like the arm is too short.
I'd bet Logman could weld that up.
 

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Revived almost 3 year old thread. You have a legitimate question and a nice video but it was (is) against the rules to resurrect a thread that old unless you are the OP. I'm closed this thread and invite you to start a new one.
 
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