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Gun cleaning and lube: 2023

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The admin said the other thread was too OLD. Really? The guns are old.
Anyways, here's a new thread:

Hi,
Im new to the 1911 forum and gun. I got my first 6 shot .22cal pistol when I was 13. I'm ....well, not dead. About 5 years ago I bought a gun. After not having a gun for over 30 years I was new again. New types of guns. I have several handguns, 30-30, 2 shotguns. AND.....I just got a WWII 1911 .45. The serial number identifies as 1955 build. At some point some gunsmithing rework was done to make it a NM guns with barrel, trigger, bushing and Bomar rear sight. This gun, along was about 20 others have not been touched, cleaned or even fired in possible over 20 or 30 years. Needless to say that when I got the 1911 it was still as a board, would not slide smoothly at all.
After talking to several of my gun guys, watching numerous break-down and cleaning videos, I felt confident to start cleaning. Tear down was a B-atch because it was so stubborn.
Based on the recommendations, I first did a deep clean. I have taken apart, cleaned, reassembled three times. Some of the gunk is so dried on.

I have Ballistol, Hoppe's #9, Lucas Gun oil, Rem oil, Breakthrough HP PRO, alcohol, brake cleaner and syn oil.

I can't get all of the crud off of the frame inside.
I have read the last 50 posts and everyone has an opinion on product. Understand.

Now I need suggestion on cleaning. I have seen and read some people simply soak the entire gun in hot water and Dawn dish soap. ( i plan on taking off the grips).
1. How long do you let the gun soak.
2. Any parts NO recommended to soak?

I have an air compressor to completely blow dry the entire gun.
3. Will the reassemble need still the small amount, drops, or since it will be so de-greased it will need a more liberal coat?

Thank in advance,
Leimy View attachment 665566 View attachment 665566 View attachment 665567
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I wouldn't soak it in water, period.

Wipe/spray it down with ballistol (since it's mild) and let it soak... re-apply if it dries or absorbs and give it a day or 2, then scrub with a stiff nlyon brush.

I have also use oil in the past- soak it with oil and let it sit for x days. Sometimes just the moisture of the oil will absorb & soften the crud and then it will wipe or brush off. I don't know much about the old finishes so I won't suggest specific cleaners that are stronger or more aggressive.

Lots of knowledge here about the older guns- hoping someone will chime in soon.
 

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I wouldn't soak it in water, period.
I wouldn't either, and I don't ever use brake cleaner on my guns either. However, there are many that do.

I don't know what your level of "crud" is, or what it would consist of, but a wipe down with a CLP like Ballistol is normally the limit of my crud removal.

If that isn't sufficient, you could try an ultrasonic cleaner, or something like Dunk-Kit from Cylinder & Slide (still open, but closing shop soon).

Dunk-Kit Dunk-Kit - Cylinder & Slide - Handguns parts and accessories
 

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I have Ballistol, Hoppe's #9, Lucas Gun oil, Rem oil, Breakthrough HP PRO, alcohol, brake cleaner and syn oil.

I can't get all of the crud off of the frame inside.
I have read the last 50 posts and everyone has an opinion on product. Understand.

Now I need suggestion on cleaning. I have seen and read some people simply soak the entire gun in hot water and Dawn dish soap. ( i plan on taking off the grips).
1. How long do you let the gun soak.
2. Any parts NO recommended to soak?

I have an air compressor to completely blow dry the entire gun.
3. Will the reassemble need still the small amount, drops, or since it will be so de-greased it will need a more liberal coat?

Thank in advance,
Leimy View attachment 665566 View attachment 665566 View attachment 665567
There's no room on my cleaning shelf for Ballistol. If it can't cause cancer in California, I have no use for it.

You need a brush and Hoppes 9 to get the crud out of your gun. Let it sit for a day if you need to:


Then rinse the crud and Hoppes 9 out with WD-40. You're already ahead of the game with an air compressor.

Once all the crud is out and dried off, use whatever CLP derivative of your choice to lube and protect...then more air compressor to evenly distribute it. It ain't rocket science...it's so easy that you can do it in your underwear (y)
 

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I wouldn't soak it in water, period.

Wipe/spray it down with ballistol (since it's mild) and let it soak... re-apply if it dries or absorbs and give it a day or 2, then scrub with a stiff nlyon brush.

I have also use oil in the past- soak it with oil and let it sit for x days. Sometimes just the moisture of the oil will absorb & soften the crud and then it will wipe or brush off. I don't know much about the old finishes so I won't suggest specific cleaners that are stronger or more aggressive.

Lots of knowledge here about the older guns- hoping someone will chime in soon.
 

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.....then get after it with clothes
:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

I used kerosene a little bit when I was a child. My grandparents kept it for lamp fuel. It also came in handy for gun cleaning. I recently discovered Kroil through this forum, and I have successfully used to to soak silencer baffles that just would not separate until they soaked overnight.
 

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I haven't done it yet but my shooting buddy takes the wood and grips off and soaks in diesel over night. He lets it dry and blows out with air and doesn't hurt the finish on any and doesn't take them apart. They smell like a Freightliner the first few shots but that's all he's used since the '80's. I have about 30 different cleaning agents but use the old military lube 90% of the time and Hoppe's to wipe the lead.
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I can't get all of the crud off of the frame inside.
The crud is is most likely old oil that has dried (varnished) into a hard skin and can be real tenacious (especially if it's something like WD40 which can sometimes be almost impossible to remove once it's dried and gotten hard). If Hoppes 9 doesn't dissolve it, best thing is soaking in gasoline overnight (or longer) and then brushing. Repeat as needed. Sometimes alternating between cleaners works on hard deposits rather than just staying with one (or even two). NO water or WD40! Repeat-No water or WD40! After cleaning, oil liberally (as in "a lot") any parts that move, slide, rub, or are subject to friction with your Lucas gun oil (your Rem Oil or Ballistol are basically worthless as 1911 lubricants) then wipe down the rest of the gun with your Rem Oil or Ballistol (although something like G96 would be better) to prevent rusting. Leave your motor oil in your car.
 

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NO water or WD40. Kroil and soak then scrub and repeat. It will probably take a few cycles to get it all. My father in law just used WD 40 for years till his 270 couldn't get on paper at 25yds. It took me 2 weeks to get all of it out and down to bare metal. Hoppes 9 and Kroil and a few stiff brushes and many hours of attention.
 
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