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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about getting a new pistol hard chromed but after reading the threads here I didn't find the info I was looking for.

I was thinking of only getting the entire exterior of the pistol done, but then I ran across another site that talked about having all of the internals done as well.

This will be for an Ed Brown Kobra (and I understand if any of the internals break when HC'd he will not replace)

Comments? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

Dave
 

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I personally would not plate the fire control parts; trigger, hammer, sear and disconnector nor the barrel. However, some do. The gun will work both ways.

I just had a 1911 done by Metaloy and they did a great job fast at a reasonable price.
 

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I've had many pistols hardchromed by metaloy, all the parts plated. Nothing has broken after many thousands of rounds. And years of use.
 

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Do you guys have a link for Metaloy?
 

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I had one of my 1911's hardchromed by Tripp earlier this year and he refinished everything except the H/T/S and mag release assembly, which I didn't even ship.

I had a blued extractor in that pistol and asked if it would be a problem to chrome that piece. He stated that he had plated many extractors with no problems, but it would probably void the warranty if it was a popular name brand part. That didn't bother me so I had him plate it. I've put several hundred rounds through it since then with no issues.
 

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the only parts I wouldn't have hard chromed would be the springs barrel and Firing pin... every thing else would be plated because if you do some research hardchrome makes a more durable surface and relatively speking it doesn't add material to the metal (actualy it ads something like .000056something or nother) Also hardchrome slideing against hardchrome presents less friction then two unplated metals.....

Just make sure all the internals and all machine work has been done before you hardchrome the pistol otherwise you will not reach the full benefits of the expencive hardchrome job when you finally complete the pistol...
 

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SOME (ODD) THOUGHTS

Hardchrome can rust.

NP3 feels smooth, almost greasy.

If one can afford enough ammo and time to wear off NP3 (or hardchrome) I suspect one could afford another trip to Robar (or APW).

I think 'durability' of these two finishes is moot.
 

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I have been intrigued by NP3 even before I purchased my first 1911. The one factor that continually steers me away is the feel (as pointed out by Robar on the website). My hands are pretty sweaty as it is, and I fear that in a high stress situation, a more slippery pistol could be problematic.

I hope to put an NP3'd pistol through its paces so that I can find out for myself.

Be well!
 

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I had a 1911 done in NP3, it was way too slippery and seemed to scratch easily. I have a Beretta upper and some mags done in Metalife. As a test I literally drenched a Metalife'd mag in sweat, then wrapped it in a sweat-soaked shirt for about 36 hours. Not a single speck of rust. Degreased the mag first, so residual oil or Sheath wasn't a factor. I'm sure it would rust if abused enough, but I can't see any situation where my guns would be exposed to sweat long enough for it to happen.

I would not have the plater do the fire control parts or firing pin. If the extractor does become brittle it's easier to replace, but the bead-blasting done to prep the parts can ruin your trigger job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like the best course would be to have the entire exterior done and leave the internal stuff alone (H, T, S, D, & FP)

I'll post a pic when I get it back.

Regards,
 

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chrome

hey Dave, Please dont take this the wrong way! i was just wondering why you would chrome a stainless gun? it doesnt look much different unless you get a high polish finish. the stainless is easy to fix if you ever get any scratches or damage. you can just re-blast it. i was just curious...

btw, dont forget me on the tiger striped cocobola grips!
have a great week!
Max
 

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Hard chromed stainless steel is quite a bit more corrosion resistant than bare stainless, and won't show scratches like bare stainless. Hard chromed stainless steel won't gall like bare stainless-on-stainless can, and hard chromed stainless surfaces will maintain working fits for longer because chrome-on-chrome contact produces less friction than stainless-on-stainless.

Hard chromed stainless is maybe the "ultimate" material/finish combination, at least in theory.
 

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now that you mention it....i did notice on my kobra today that there has been some galling on the frame slide rails.... i was not too happy when i noticed it
 
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