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I know that SA re-engineered the 1911's firing pin, mainspring, and firing pin return spring to comply with certain ridiculous "drop test" requirements. I also notice that the empty cases from my GI appear to have somewhat light looking firing pin dents, at least as compared to other "normal" 1911's.

My question is, has anyone actually experienced a failure-to-fire in a STOCK SA 1911 with that system (do all SA 1911 models have it?) that was the result of the firing pin not hitting a primer hard enough?

If this is a real concern, then what exactly would one need to replace to make it in "normal" spec? The pin, pin spring, and mainspring? Two of the three? One of the three? And will a GI accept a steel firing pin of standard 1911A1 dimension, or must it be in "9mm size?"

Last but not least, where to get a spare extractor and normal (non-keylocking) mainspring housing that will drop into my GI (minor fitting OK) and look right as far as finish?

If someone can tell me where to buy these parts and what exactly to buy, I would be much obliged!

Thanks in advance,

Ted
 

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Hi, Ted. Welcome to the forum.

The titanium firing pin is indeed common to all Springfield 1911's. Springfield uses a 9mm/.38 Super firing pin, so the original .45 cal firing pins will not work, unless you want to get the firing pin channel bored. A lot of people swap out these titanium firing pins for steel ones, due to the same concern you have cited, possible light primer strikes. Both my Springfield 1911's still have their OEM titanium firing pins, and I've never had a problem. I get good, deep primer strikes. If you are seeing shallow primer strikes, swapping in a steel firing pin, with the appropriate spring, may or may not help you, but it is cheap and easy to try it. I'd call Ed Brown Products, and ask them to send you a firing pin and spring for a Springfield GI 1911. Here's the phone#: 573-565-3261. They can also set you up with a mainspring housing, main spring, etc. The MSH will be blued, though, rather than parkerized. No one that I know of supplies an arched MSH with a parkerized finish.
 

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I have not had a misfire with a stock Springfield with titanium firing pin. I got some very alarming completely flattened primers in a 9mm UC, though.

If you go to a softer mainspring as part of a trigger job or in lieu of a full trigger job, you will very likely get misfires. That can usually be cleared up with a steel firing pin and standard (Wolff "extra power") firing pin spring.

Springfields use their own firing pin dimensions. They are an oversize .38 Super relative to the Colt part. Ed Brown sells a Springfield-specific firing pin. Brownells carries them, Midway, too; Brown part no 826.
 

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Springfields use their own firing pin dimensions. They are an oversize .38 Super relative to the Colt part. Ed Brown sells a Springfield-specific firing pin. Brownells carries them, Midway, too; Brown part no 826.
Jim's quite right about this, which is why I advised you to call Ed Brown Products and tell them in person exactly what you need. If you want to go with Brownell's, the part # there is 087-205-826.

BTW, I use a standard mainspring (rather than the stiff OEM one), the OEM titanium firing pin, and a Wolff extra power firing pin spring (which I replace every time I replace my recoil spring), and still get good, deep primer strikes. Doesn't mean that your concern isn't valid, though.
 

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Ted said:
I know that SA re-engineered the 1911's firing pin, mainspring, and firing pin return spring to comply with certain ridiculous "drop test" requirements. I also notice that the empty cases from my GI appear to have somewhat light looking firing pin dents, at least as compared to other "normal" 1911's.

My question is, has anyone actually experienced a failure-to-fire in a STOCK SA 1911 with that system (do all SA 1911 models have it?) that was the result of the firing pin not hitting a primer hard enough?

If this is a real concern, then what exactly would one need to replace to make it in "normal" spec? The pin, pin spring, and mainspring? Two of the three? One of the three? And will a GI accept a steel firing pin of standard 1911A1 dimension, or must it be in "9mm size?"

Last but not least, where to get a spare extractor and normal (non-keylocking) mainspring housing that will drop into my GI (minor fitting OK) and look right as far as finish?

If someone can tell me where to buy these parts and what exactly to buy, I would be much obliged!

Thanks in advance,

Ted

Ted,

On all mt SA 1911's I've never had any FTF's but admit I too get light pind dents. For no worries for myself as long as they continue to go bang. I've heard from past threads that you can replace the pin with a steel version but it has to be a 9mm one.

rimfire,22
 

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Largo said:
You can get an arched, parkerized mainspring housing with lanyard loop from Kahr Auto Ordnance.
Nice one, Largo. Thanks for posting that.
 

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I tried an Ed Brown replacement steel FP in place of the stock Ti one. Although I ordered the right one, Brownells sent me the right one, and the sizes look right, the steel pin just doesn't work properly. It sticks in the FP hole. However, the Ti pin works just great, so I went back to that and quit messing with it.
 

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Has anyone ever experienced FTF with SA's titanium f-pins?

Only if I use a very light main spring (<18#) and CCI primers.... But then that will also be the case regardless of the firing pin.... I don’t use the ILS. About 50K rounds worth of Springer history…. Just my penny and a half
 

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My new springer was totally destroying the primers when it was new! That FP slammed home allright! I took the mainspring housing spring down a couple of notches. 100% function up to now (I must be closing on the 5,000 rounds). As mentionned it's a 1mm/.38 Super sized FP, so the primer mark is a little smaller than "normal" 1911s.

I actually like the TiN FP :cool: I think it's classy :rolleyes:

Alex.
 

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Ted said:
My question is, has anyone actually experienced a failure-to-fire in a STOCK SA 1911 with that system (do all SA 1911 models have it?) that was the result of the firing pin not hitting a primer hard enough?

If this is a real concern, then what exactly would one need to replace to make it in "normal" spec? The pin, pin spring, and mainspring? Two of the three? One of the three? And will a GI accept a steel firing pin of standard 1911A1 dimension, or must it be in "9mm size?"

Last but not least, where to get a spare extractor and normal (non-keylocking) mainspring housing that will drop into my GI (minor fitting OK) and look right as far as finish? Ted
Don't recall seeing the specific reason for wanting to replace your MS housing. I'm assuming you're just wanting to go with a 'standard' mainspring.
I picked up a new G.I. model a few months back .....didn't have any FP related problems, I just wanted to be able to use a standard lighter mainspring. I really didn't mind retaining my stock MSH, mainly because personally, I don't find the 'ILS' hole really all that objectionable .... or noticeable; and a good "QUALITY - Parkerized - Serrated" MSH is all but impossible to find (also didn't want to spend a ton of $).
What I ended up doing .... I ordered a MS cap; retainer pin; and standard mainspring (total about $11 @ Brownells). BTW, this will render your ILS inoperable. I kept the original Ti FP, and spring .... so far 350+ rds after the mod's, using several different brands of ammo, haven't had any sign of "light hits".
It could be possible that either your firing pin may not be machined properly (check OAL etc.) - FP channel may have a problem - causing a "bind" somewhere. Check for burrs or debris that might be causing over-compression of the FP spring. Springfield's (or anybody else's) G.I. Mil-Spec 1911 models aren't exactly renowned for their manufacturing precision.
 

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what looks like "light" fp strikes may just be the smaller diameter of the firing pin. I can't see why a titanium pin would have a lighter strike than a steel pin. The steel may be heavier, but the the titanium is (in theory) faster, and it is also a harder metal. The firing pin spring, and not the pin itself determines the pressure of the strike.

The drop test works because the light pin has less inertia but that in no way means it does not strike as hard or as fast (theoretically faster). I have never had a failure to ignite, nor have I even heard of anyone having a problem like that with the SA titanium firing pin system. It is one of the more (most?) logical solutions to a problem that really doesn't exist in the real world, but since some states require this "drop test", this seems to be the most simple and therefore the most elegant solution.

Peace,
D.
 

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I still have the stock titanium firing pin and firing pin spring in my Loaded model. I was concerned about this after I switched to a 24# Wolff ILS specific mainspring (that I actually removed a coil from). I could tell an immediate differenct in the effort required to cock the pistol and also that my trigger was lighter. After about 100 rounds since modification however, I am convinced that it is totally reliable. I have the same depth hits as before and have had 0 failures of any kind.
 
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