[hammer4nc]

I'm putting my first 1911 style gun together (using all new parts - on a para gunsmith frame).

Everything's going smoothly...minor fitting of msh rails, radiusing of frame tangs for beavertail safety.

Here's two problems:

1. Can't get the hammer strut pin into the hammer hole! Kuhnhausen shows specs for pin @ .096 -.001", hole @ .095 +.001. The text talks about staking the pin in the hole (once its in) to prevent rubbing on the inside of the frame, but I can't get it in, I'm afraid to beat on this expensive part.

Using Cyl&Slide Tactical hammer, Ed Brown pin.

2. I'm not happy with the engagement of grip safety trigger tab, and the trigger bow (just barely touching). What with the vertical play of the trigger in the frame, I can wiggle things around, and the bow slips by the safety, without depressing it. I've thought about filing the safety ears, where they contact the msh, which would index the tab downward some, but that would make the grip safety stick out more. Its a raised safety, and with my fat hands, I'd rather have the bump protrude less, rather than more. I have not filed anything yet.

Your help is kindly appreciated.

 

[George Smith]

Good move not trying to forge the pin in. A 2pc hammers are not desirable

(I have a really expensive one here if you need

)

always work on the cheapest part when you can. If ed buys his pins where most do they are case hardend steel and turning the pin down may not be a great plan. (you do not have an oversize strut pin??)
Measure the pin and you know the hole didn't work so if the pin is big get another, if the hole is small, call Cylinder or open the hole. the hammer is probably 53 rc ish so you will probably need a diamond file or a carbide reamer to do this.

On the beavertail there are several gunsmith's on the board that can weld the tab to extend it for you. we weld up 2 out of 3 para's for this so it is not you! good eye though finding out now ahead of time.
geo ><>