Many years ago when I first started carrying a .45 on duty, I had this problem. I was using a new Safariland thumbbreak duty holster; if memory serves me, after the holster 'broke in', I didn't have this problem anymore. The thumb safety was a stock Colt.

I usually made a conscious effort to check the safety and 'snick' it on if it wasn't. I didn't worry about it that much because of all the other safeties on the Colt.

There are some fine holster makers that read this forum, maybe they could be of some help. Good luck.

 

Depending on the holster maker it may have been made for a 1911 with hammer down. I know this sounds stupid but I bought a DeSantis holster once and the thumb break could not snap unless it switched the saftey off/down. Further inspection led to show that the only way to snap the TB is to have the hammer down (following the molding). I exchanged it for a "cocked & locked" DeSantis holster...

Are you sure the holster is made for cocked and locked?

 

The large number of different widths, lengths and curves in 1911 thumb safeties and the relatively small area on the back on the slide in which to position the snap combine to make a 1911 thumb break a real challenge to a holstermaker. In your case, the thumb break might be postioned improperly or it may be that the safeties on your pistol are shaped differently enough that the snap doesn't fit right. Or, if your pistol has enough difference in demensions from the "standard" 1911, it may cause the pistol to ride differently enough in the holster to cause a problem with the safety. You could try changing thumb safeties to a different brand/type.

You might want to contact the maker and ask how to resolve the issue.

 

Huey,
A thumbreak on a 1911 should be fitted so that the strap that goes over the back of the slide is up against the cocked hammer when the snap is engaged. This helps keep the strap from moving to the rear which could initiate the safety being inadvertantly wiped off. It should be wide enough to fully cover the back of the slide and should be a snug fit when snapped up to retard any movement of the strap.

In my opinion, the male snap should be fitted in a location right after the bend in the strap as it is rolled over the back of the slide. It should be positioned forward enough towards the rear sight to provide as much clearance as possible for the engaged safety, but not so far forward that you can push the still fastened strap over the rear sight. This locates the male snap as far from the engaged safety as you can get it.

When we fit thumbreaks for 1911's we even go as far as to trim the leather on the strap right up to the male snap, in a line that duplicates that of the engaged safety. We also countersink the female snap into the reinforced thumb piece, so as to keep it from levering away from the gun. This helps insure full engagement of the male to female snap.

Because of the variation in widths and shapes of the various extended safetys and the different makes and models of 1911's they are fitted on, even fitting a thumbreak as tediously as described above is no guarantee of problem free performance. It becomes even more of a problem with mass produced models where a clicker die decides where the snaps will be located on the finish product as opposed to fitting by hand.

You didn't specify the maker, but I would suggest contacting them for advice. If it turned out to be one of ours we would certainly have you send it back for adjustment.

Good luck!

Tony

 

Gentlemen-

Thank you for the quick and knowledgable replies. Several good points have been brought up, including the question of whether or not the holster was designed for cocked-and-locked. (I assumed that it was, but we all know how that goes!) I neglected to mention that the holster is a 3-slot Desantis, a 001 I believe. When I get home from work I'm going to check the indentification on the back and email them.

Thanks again- you guys have been great. I'll let you know the outcome.

 

I bet you got the wrong holster. Its probably an older model - look on the bag and there will be a code (i.e. 30/02) But I am sure the holster is made for carrying a 1911 with hammer down. Just follow the molding of the holster where the thumb saftey goes. Put the saftey down and hammer down (unloaded of course!!!!) and snap it shut, you'll see that its not made for C&L. The DeSantis holster I have is called "Cocked and Locked" and I think its a custom holster. It only has two slots and very detailed molding.

They have another one out there that is for cocked and locked as it will say it on the bag.

Let us know, good luck!

 

Great topic. I have been wondering the same thing. By any chance could you guys provide some ideas of models that work well in the cocked and locked position with a thumb snap. I have been looking online but sometimes it is hard to tell. Thanks in advance.

 

Gentlemen-

Here is the reply from desantisholster@yahoo.com, which I received less than 24 hours after writing them:

"This holster is not designed for cocked & locked carry. Our style #085
Thumb Break Mini Slide is cocked & locked carry, but your gun will stick
through the bottom approximately 1". You can order the style #1cl through
our custom shop for an additional $50.00, this particular holster is made
for the 5" 1911."

It was nice to get a fast answer, especially with one that pointed out some options. The truth is that I only bought the holster because it as a great deal and I wanted to try the thumbbreak in Condition One. (I don't carry in Condition Two or Three.) Since this holster doesn't work that way, I'll just keep it on hand and look to one of the makers who responded to my post if I ever have the "need" for such a holster.

Thanks for the interest and the help,

 

JUSTACOP

Great topic. I have been wondering the same thing. By any chance could you guys provide some ideas of models that work well in the cocked and locked position with a thumb snap. I have been looking online but sometimes it is hard to tell. Thanks in advance.

Sorry for replying to this post so late, but I've been away from the forum for awhile.

I use a Heinie model (built by Alessi) called the D.O.J. Thumb Break. It rides high, and has a quick draw channel cut into the front of it (which is reinforced, so you don't have to worry about it collapsing.)

The thumb break secures without a problem, and is easy to snap off when drawing. Also, the leather seems to secure the thumb safety in place without a problem (I have a Wilson CQB with a single safety.)

I'm sure there are others out there that don't have a problem with disengaging the thumb safety as well. I hope this helps!