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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have received my new grips for my gun and when I removed my original grips I noticed there was small little black specs that circled the cutout underneath the grip. When I wiped it with my gun rag some went away and some didn't. They in know way looked like rust nor were they brown. What was it and how do I remove the rest of them. I wiped it down with my gun rag real well before I put on mu new grips so we will see if that helps anything. Thanks
 

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Is this a stainless, nickel, or blued pistol?
 

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A picture would be worth a thousand words, but:

I think it is possible that it is stain from the factory grips, try a stiff brush and a little solvent such as is in most cleaning kits. (old toothbrush should work too)

Worked for me on something that sounds similar...
 

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Sounds like what I had on a Ruger SR1911. The specs that didn't come off with wiping came off with brushing a bit with an old soft toothbrush with CLP on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I thought about taking a picture but I was in a hurry to get them put on. Wife was needing help with two month old hungry babies. I will try the brush and solvent and also takin a picture. Thanks for the help.
 

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Sounds kinda like unburned powder/powder residue that's migrated to that area. THAT IS, if you've ever fired it.;)

Bob
 

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My bet is that they're rust pits. I just yesterday sent a new stainless Series 70 reissue back to Colt to have the rust pits polished out. I first tried to remove them with a toothbrush, oil, a brass brush, steel wool, and finally, super fine grit sandpaper. I got some but not all. I decided to let Colt get the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have fired 50 rounds out of it. I guess I will try a toothbrush with some oil or a brass brush and see what I can do. I just don't want it to get worse.
 

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PPS. The black specs I mentioned were under my grips. I had a knifemaker friend of mine, Pat Crawford, diagnose the problem: rust pits.
 

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Probably from palm sweat getting under and or a combination of moisture possibly from how and or where it was stored. Many don't think about it let alone even do. And though maybe a pain to some, and or needless to do to others, I always take off my grips when cleaning (mainly because they're Crimson Trace laser grips), but even if they weren't I still do, and I clean and put down a light coating of CLP each and every time after use and if not used for 6 months, I still break 'em out, inspect and give another coat in the barrel, under the grips and wherever else I feel necessary.

And it can't hurt to contact RIA and let them know. Who knows, they just light tell you to send it in, or better yet, send you a call tag and have it picked up? You won't know until you ask/try. Nothing gained nothing lost but a little of your time. And if they send a all tag or ask you to send it in, worth the time either way. Because if indeed truly rust pits, in time, just like anything else, it usually gets worse.

Truth be told, I don't own an RIA and have no clue what or how their warranty is. Always heard god things about the gums and their customer service. So....Go for it.
 

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Sounds like the early stages of corrosion to me as well. I would definitely leave a thin film of oil underneath the grips, and once every month or so I would just remove the grips while cleaning, etc., and re-apply.

It's pretty common, as a lot of people forget that sweat and water have a way of getting under there and once there they just sit on the metal and go to town.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I took the grips off and snapped a before and after picture then put a thin coat of oil on it before putting the grips back on. You can just barely see where they used to be so I hope nothing comes of them anymore. I will keep this in my routine when cleaning my guns.
 

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:cool:Most folks don't realize that there are two different families of stainless steel: the first type is called the "austenitic" family of alloys, and these types are used extensively in the food industry and somewhat in the aircraft engine business...this family is normally denoted by a number in the 300 range...304, 347, etc., and will never rust or tarnish on its own, barring the accidental addition of strong acids or strong base elements.........the second is called "martensitic", and is most often an alloy of steel and chromium in different ratios, and generally bears a number in the 400 range, such as 440, commonly used in knife making, firearms alloys in differing grades, all in the 400 series.....the reason for the use almost exclusively of 400 series in its many applications is the issue of machinability, 400 series being MUCH more easily machined. The downside with the martensitic steels has to do with the main base metals used in the 400 series alloys, one of which is the afore-mentioned steel in large quantities, which leaves the martensitic types susceptible to rust or more often a dark colored corrosion, especially when in contact with other alloys or dissimilar materials such as wood, blood, sweat, or long exposure to water. There is a third class of stainless, such as 17-4, which generally refers to an alloy used in castings, such as golf club heads, and generally falls somewhat into the martensitic family, with the same short-comings as the true martensitic types, along with the problem of not being capable of being formed or reshaped after casting, as it is very brittle in cast form. There is probably some substance actually on the back of the grips that doesn't agree with your 400-series grip frame. And that thar is all I got ta say 'bout that thar......:hrm:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That's pretty informative, thank you. That's why I joined this forum. I just hope with me applying oil to it on a regular basis the rust "specs" won't come back.
 
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