While I don't advocate an untrained person attempting to install a critical safety related component such as a grip safety. I will describe the difference in the ambi unit. First of all, the sear and hammer pins are all smooth on the right side. The pins have to be flat on the right side. Because the pins protrude on the right side of the frame and need to be flat to allow the right lever to move up and down. So right off the bat, the hammer/sear pins are ambi style. The grip needs a slot cut in the right pannel to allow the ambi unit to move up and down. The grip, hammer and sear pins are therefore different. Have it installed by a 1911 qualified and properly licensed person. Good luckOriginally posted by gewehr3:
I have an Ed Brown Tac Ambi Safety I would like to install. Is there a FAQ that has instructions for installing an ambi safety?
Slow Cat,Originally posted by Slo cat:
I strongly agree with your post. Good advice. But could you expand on "properly licensed person"?
RickB,Originally posted by RickB:
I've installed a half-dozen (am working on one now), and while it is very important that it be done properly, doing so is not outside the abilities of anyone who understands how the safety operates. Assemble the gun without the grip safety in place, and operate the stock safety to see where/how the safety interacts with the sear. There should be enough extra material on the ambi that it won't even go into the frame until some of the excess is removed. You must know exactly where and how much to remove, or you will have both a dangerous gun and a trashed part. Removing the safety plunger from the plunger tube will make it easier to do the repeated installation and removal that will be required to get the fit just right. Do the final fitting with the off-side lever in place, to make sure the safety stud is aligned exactly as it will be when the gun is fully assembled. Even when the part is functional, there can still be some "art" to getting a nice, crisp release. As noted above, make sure the pin is smooth at the joint, and that the grip panel is properly relieved. Go slow - measure twice, cut once.
RickB, I think you are being needlessly defensive. I don't think I was even making reference to your posts. I was merely pointing out that the function of the safety is to arrest the sears feet. One member suggested in the past that the gun should be drawn to full cock and checked for a clicking sound. Yes, this is the Colt Armorer/Technician test to see if there is a clicking sound. Proof that the gun is unsafe and the sear has moved. I've seen so-called gunsmiths botch the job. With the safety engaged and the hammer cocked. Take up slack and I've heard small clicks in various weapons. I always throw that stuff in about a licensed gunsmith so some putz doesn't give his gun to somebody and never gets the gun back. Don't be so defensive. Your post was not lowered or criticized in any shape, way or form. I've got a lot of manufacturers time and training. My training has been an immense benefit in learning about quality pistolsmithing. But I must admit, revolvers are my love.Originally posted by RickB:
H-Man - Where/when did I tell him to "mindlessly remove metal"? I'm no gunsmith, never even took metal shop in high school, but I have successfully installed a half-dozen ambi's (and received compliments on the crisp action of same, BTW). If I can do it, so can anyone else who will take the time to figure out how the safety works, as I suggested, removes only the necessary material, as suggested, and proceeds with caution, as suggested. If you need a licensed gunsmith to do your ambi's, that's fine, but I still think fitting one is not beyond the capabilities of anyone who will take the time to pay attention to the details. If, after my description of the process, someone decides they need the services of a gunsmith, that's fine. Some of us would rather do it ourselves (just like we might like to install our own brake pads, sharpen our knives, or wire our homes).