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How long to break in?

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I've got a Baer TRS. I absolutely love the gun. It's like a precision machine more so than just a weapon. I have about 1000 rounds through it and have found it to be absolutely reliable and dead-on accurate. However, the slide is still so tight that I can't even perform a simple press-check to verify the status of the chamber. How long does it usually take with Baer guns before they start to loosen up enough to where I don't have to "break" the action open? Should I do anything to speed the process along, or just let it wear in naturally?
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DA

From the few people I have talked to that have a Les Baer, 2000 rounds was the number needed for break in. You might help the process along by lubing the frame rails and barrel lugs with oil, or a very light coating of gun grease, and shooting for a minimum of 500 rounds. If you use oil check the lube every 500 rounds and add a drop of two as necessary, with grease do not add any more. Also use ammo that has a higher level of powder residue, like Federal American Eagle or S&B. The powder residue will mix with the lube and act as a very mild polishing compound. After 500 rounds clean your pistol and see how things work. if it is still tight repeat the 500 round shooting cycle.

I hope this helps.
Str8_Shot
 

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When I got my new TRS, it took about 700 rounds shot before I could cycle the slide one handed without having to hold the gun between my knees. I have about 2,800 rounds thru mine now and I can just now do a press check without struggling. I'd say that at a 1,000 rounds fired you can consider your gun at just past break-in point. I would agree that you need to be close to 2,000 rounds before you can press check with two fingers.
 

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Boys, boys...

Please pick up some Creatine Monohydrate at your earliest convenience to enhance your strength/muscle energy!
I'm embarrassed for you!


Seriously though, the last two Les Baers that passed through my local shop were quite tight, but nothing that I would term impossible.

Derek
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Str8,
Yeah, mine has just recently gotten to the point where I can comfortably rack the slide back using my support hand in the manner taught for most administrative loads and falfunction clearance drills. At least I now know that it does get better after a few thousand rounds.

By the way, what do you guys use for lubricant? I can't seem to make up my mind between Break Free CLP, Tetra, or Zero Friction. I might try some of that Sentry Solutions stuff.
-Mike
 

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Just a few thoughts for you folks who are gushing enthusiasts of your TRS guns...
If you bought a new car, would you expect to find that the starter would not turn it over until after 5000 miles? Or maybe the pistons scrape on the cylinders for the first 6 months of use? I'm dumbfounded that people constantly confuse poor workmanship for "tight tolerances" and "precision gunsmithing". Here's a simple test. Take out your barrel, guide rod and recoil spring and put the slide back on the gun. How tight are we now? In fact I'm betting the slide actually rattles on the rails without that barrel. Folks, the gun won't rack because that Kart EZ fit barrel is jammed in there so tight that it is actually sprung. And that, my friends, is because almost no time has been spent to install it correctly. Making your link jam the barrel into the upper lugs is not the correct way to fit a barrel. Yes, it may fire bullets occasionally, but so what? I know because my TRS was built exactly the same as DA Mike's; and after getting a new BarSto fitted up correctly, the gun no longer jams and it racks smoothly as it was designed to do 100 years ago. Think about it.
-Sparks

[This message has been edited by Sparks (edited 08-10-2001).]
 

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Hmmmm and it's supposed to be a custom-made, hand-fitted pistol that you waited 8 months to be built (not to mention the big bucks that you paid) and then comes the lame excuses for it. Something is wrong with this picture folks. If I pay that much money for a pistol, it better work right - right out of the box, no excuses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Interesting. After reading your e-mail, as an experiment I decided to polish the barrel lugs slightly using a light polishing compound. Not enough to remove any metal, just to smooth out any bearing surfaces. I applied a little extra lubrication to the lugs before reassembling the gun (Tetra oil plus a little Tetra grease). This actually made a noticeable difference! I might go back for a more thorough polishing just to see if it takes the stiffness out entirely.

And you're right, the slide-to-frame fit isn't as tight as some would believe. The majoriy of the tight fit must be coming from the barrel fit and/or barrel link.

And BTW, I didn't wait 8 months (or any length of time) for the gun, as several shops in my area regularly stock this model. It has functioned flawlessly with every type of ammo I've put through it, so to say that it doesn't "work right" would be inaccurate. Even the price is a relatively good deal, IMO, compared to what you'd end up paying if you parted it out and had a gunsmith assemble everything from scratch. But I do agree that the Baer guns leave the factory unnecessarily tight in the barrel lockup.
 

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What area are you in that several dealers have "good" deals on them?

What do they go for in this area?

Have you seen one of them in Hard Chrome?
TIA...

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>>>>>>>>>>g2<<<<<<<<<<

I Like The Shade Too!
 

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My TRS is tight as a drum, but it needs no "excuses".. The lug fit is important, and there is zero rattle with out the barrel & spring.. It costs less than anything in it`s class.. It runs flawlessly, and hits where you aim.. Praise be to the TRS
-Gilmore

[This message has been edited by Citizen_Gilmore (edited 08-06-2001).]
 

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I bought a Premier II in 1998 with a properly fitted Kart EZ fit barrel. It could shoot 2 inch groups at 25 yards all day long if I did my part. You could two finger press check it the day it came out of the box.

If you can't press check, Sparks is right and you should send the pistol back to Les Baer to have the barrel fit checked.

The slide should move easily on the rails without the barrel and recoil spring in place.

Baer used to build good pistols and I'm sure he still is interested in customer satisfaction so don't be afraid to complain.

My only complaint after 10's of thousands of rounds was that after 1000 rounds without out cleaning the powder residue buildup on the rails would slow the slide return into battery. That's the only penalty you should be paying for a well fitted frame and slide.
 

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My TRS worked perfectly from the very beginning. I have other Baer pistols that have been very tight at first. One took a trip back to Baer to be fixed. It never did break in. My TRS was not like that. The TRS is truly a fine pistol. Watch-Six

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Get your 1911s and AR15s while you still can!
 

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Interesting, Sparks and NewToy. Do y'all happen to have TRS's?

Just from personal experience, our little group of shooters has 6 TRS's among us (ranging from sub 100 up through high 800's). Only problem of any type encountered was the lowest production number had a front sight start moving. Field remedied and called LB. None of the others have had any trouble. They are dang tight when you get them, but you can rack the slide with some effort. If the press check is breaking open to hard, place the side of your little finger of your support hand against your trigger finger and let it act as a soft block to keep from racking the round out of the chamber.

I saw a lot of TRS's at HIT. Saw my two Para's croak, saw a few Colt's croak, even saw a couple of Glocks croak...didn't see a single TRS die (or the other Baer for that matter).

Just seems a little premature to condem a manufacturer because he makes a close tolerance machine (anybody hear of Baer Racing?). Some will be a little tighter than the others, but you should be able to work it OK. It's more technique than strength (but those grip exercisers help with this, and recoil control). Have about 700 through mine with no troubles, and it sure is cool seeing the blue wear evenly on the contact surfaces, rather than the 4 points like usual.
 

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I maybe should have started a new subject but you all seem to have the TRS. I am deciding between a Wilson CQB and a Baer TRS. I know this is the Baer end of things but the Wilson actually has a short plastic guide rod and a buffer. Does the TRS have a full length guide rod and is it metal?

Thanks
Techo
 

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Originally posted by techo:
Does the TRS have a full length guide rod and is it metal?

The TRS comes standard with a GI style guide rod. Baer will put an optional metal FLGR in if you want it that way. (Or add one yourself.)
 
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