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I worked for an aviation company where if you were ever caught with a can of WD 40 in their hangar you were immediately pulled off the job and sent to the Boss's office where a VERY UNPLEASANT lecture was directed to you. WD 40 makes a fine glue for precision assemblies.
Wow. Well, luckily we're not building rockets or airplanes...just guns ;)

Herr Wernher von Braun might roll over in his nazi grave if he knew how much WD40 I've used.
 

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Some gun people have different ideas on how often to clean a gun and the types of cleaning tools to use. A bronze cleaning brush is not harsh on a steel barrel, since bronze is a much softer metal. Using a steel cleaning brush would not be good on the barrel. I have used Hoppe's cleaning liquid for years to remove gun powder residue. After a range session, I may remove the slide, then use Q-tips to remove gun powder residue inside the slide grooves and the barrel locking recesses. Then I may wipe the powder residue off the frame itself with the slide off. I may run a bronze brush with Hoppe's down the barrel, then use cloth patches to clean out the bore.

When I shoot any of my pistols in Action Shooting Matches, I use plain old 3-1 oil as a lubricant. I would never use any penetrating oils, (like WD-40) since they may cause problems with ammunition primers. I place a drop or two inside the barrel slide recesses, inside the slide rail grooves, at the muzzle of the barrel whether using a bushing barrel or bull barrel, and a drop or two on the full length guide rod.

I keep all of my handguns in zippered "gun rugs" and store them inside a large and very heavy steel gun safe within my air conditioned home.
 

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When I shoot it, I come home and clean it, lube it, then stick it in the gun safe. I only lube it after I shoot it and clean it. There is no reason to keep lubing it when it sits in the gun safe. It does not evaporate and the AC in my house keeps the humidity down.
 

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How often do you folks lube your 1911 pistol if it hasn't been fired? Does it hurt the pistol to repeatedly field strip it, if it doesn't need to be cleaned?
I clean my guns every five min. :( I already wore down two 1911 and one revolver. But I have more guns. I love cleaning them, I don't mine to pay the price of losing a gun after 1.3 million field trips. I love the Springfield TRP because it is rated for 4 million field trips. You should be fine, don't worry.
 

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Are you confused yet???? Depending on where you are, what your local climate conditions are, how often you shoot your weapon, and God knows what else everybody has a different formula that seems to resonate best with them. Unlike a bedded M1A, you can't over disassemble a 1911. So if you like fondling your gun, knock yourself out. DO NOT however gum it up by overlubricating/greasing it. A microscopic layer is sufficient. They were meant to run dry.
 

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WD40 is so misunderstood. Don't use it if you don't have compressed air to blow it out (or blow it in). It's not difficult to figure out. Yes, it penetrates and cleans, which is one reason I use it. I keep it away from wood and ammo. There ya go.
 

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I lube it before I go to the range or decide to carry it, and after I get back from the range and clean it. Same with all my guns.
 

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How often do you folks lube your 1911 pistol if it hasn't been fired? Does it hurt the pistol to repeatedly field strip it, if it doesn't need to be cleaned?
I lube----relube----only if it is dry or if the lube that is on it has become sticky/tacky. In my experience, the lighter, more volatile, 'cleaning' hydrocarbons in CLPs tend to evaporate over time, leaving a stick residue behind-----as a consequence, I tend to lube with a straight, non-evaporating, lubricant, such as Mobil 1, Tri Flow, etc.
 

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I have heard all sorts of strategies, and most of them are documented here. Personally, I clean my 1911s after every shooting, and clean bolt action rifles after every 2 or 3 uses, and AR type rifles after every couple hundred rounds. I have also been told NOT to clean a gun too often or it will ruin the gun. Therefore, I went to the source and contacted Bob Reeves at Nighthawk. For those of you who might not know Bob, he runs the Custom Shop at Nighthawk....

He tells me that it does not harm a gun to clean it after every use, IFF it is a high quality 1911 (e.g., NHC, GI, WC). When I put a Nighthawk, GI, or one of my Desert Eagles back in the safe, I like it to be spotless (I'm a little anal). My Sig P226 Legion for example, I clean after every 2 trips to the range.

My Desert Eagles I like to run wet, so I do not lube them after a cleaning, rather I lube them just before I take one of them to the range. Other than my DEs, I lube my guns when I finish cleaning them.

I figure if it's good enough for Bob, it's good enough for me ;)
 

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I've always heard that WD stood for water displacing. So, I always use it when I finish using my toilet auger.
 

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WD40 is so misunderstood.
I avoid all penetrating oils, including WD-40, when cleaning my firearms. Penetrating oils will "permeate" the metal, and may get into places not intended on a firearm. I was teaching an NRA basic pistol marksmanship class, and explained it would be best to not use penetrating oils on firearms. One student said he always cleaned his revolver, loaded 6 rounds, sprayed it with WD-40, then placed it in a gun rug under the seat of his truck. I mentioned penetrating oils can move around on metal surfaces, and could contaminate the primers of his ammunition.

When we conducted our live fire training, the student that sprayed his revolver with WD-40, tried to shoot, but all six rounds of .38 special were "duds" due to contamination of the penetrating oil in the primers. He was shocked, since he was using his revolver as a self defense weapon, and kept it in his truck...... A gun that does not go "bang" is nothing more than a short handled club.......which is not good in a self defense scenario....!!!
 

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Regarding overcleaning, the idea goes back to the military use of cleaning as makework. Finish scrubbed off by such practice is a big reason why weapons look so worn--and vulnerable to corrosion. Also, repeated careless disassembly can eventually wear connecting parts, especially in aluminum guns.
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I remember seeing an episode of a reality show about a family in rural Alaska, where a rifle was 'lubed' with chicken grease, poured straight into the action from a hot skillet...no judgement, but lots of wondering.:unsure:
 

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Chicken grease!?!? Numbah 10. Pork fat rules!!! The anecdote about spraying WD 40 on a gun and killing the primers? I've seen a lot of cops do that. The look on their faces was priceless when you explained that they killed their ammo.
 

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How often do you folks lube your 1911 pistol if it hasn't been fired? Does it hurt the pistol to repeatedly field strip it, if it doesn't need to be cleaned?
I field-strip mine just to be able to admire it. It doesn't hurt the gun and I don't believe you need to continually lube it as long as the grease is present.
 

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Regarding overcleaning, the idea goes back to the military use of cleaning as makework. Finish scrubbed off by such practice is a big reason why weapons look so worn--and vulnerable to corrosion. Also, repeated careless disassembly can eventually wear connecting parts, especially in aluminum guns.
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I remember seeing an episode of a reality show about a family in rural Alaska, where a rifle was 'lubed' with chicken grease, poured straight into the action from a hot skillet...no judgement, but lots of wondering.:unsure:
Having spent 5 years in Alaska I understand the chicken grease, hot grease penetrates every where they are sealing the action against cold and wet in AK you have a'lot of both .
 

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I suppose it largely depends on storing environment and type of lube. With low humidity, rust is much less of an issue - I use Golden Rods in all my safes, and my gun room has a dehumidifier.

Even in a dry environment, the type of lube is important. There will be many opinions on this, but here's mine:

I use automotive products, specifically synthetic lubricants. As a group, auto lubes are the most tested and improved of all lubricants. For the 1911 slide rails, guide rod (short or long), slide stop, and barrel bushing I use Amsoil synthetic moly grease. For trigger parts, I use 0W-30 synthetic oil (about the same viscosity as RemOil, but at a fraction of the cost). Synthetics are superior lubricants, and don't suffer viscosity breakdown over time like petroleum products. Petroleum products are fine, but they deteriorate over time.

A 1911 is an amazing design. They will function pretty well when pretty dirty. Some of the higher end, close tolerance guns need a bit more often attention just because they don't have the gaps and slop of a mil-spec gun. If you can't rack the slide, feel the rails or the end of the barrel, and determine whether the gun is lubricated, you might consider another hobby - maybe knitting. Regardless of the type of lubricant you use, and almost anything will actually work, paying attention to your equipment will enhance its life.
 

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Peppered, hickory smoked, applewood smoked, cherry smoked, or some other flavor? What's the best bacon lube choice? 😁
Careful with all that salt from the bacon grease. I read on the Internet (So of course it’s unquestionably true) according to renown unnamed experts, if a 1911 consumes too much salt it becomes bloated and may suffer catastrophic failures. Not to worry the same group of experts assured me, 1911’s were designed in the Mesozoic era by a dinosaur named Brownie and have never fired bullets anyway!
Please pass the eggs!
 
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