[dsk]

It shouldn't be necessary to detail clean it, ever. Most of the other gun designs out simply CAN'T be detail stripped without taking an armorer's course either. Usually simply removing the grips and blasting the crud out with spray degreaser should be sufficient. However.....

Since it is so easy to detail strip anyway, I usually do it every thrird cleaning. While it isn't necessary I choose to do so simply because I can, and it obviously guarantees that ALL crud will be removed.

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D. Kamm
USGI M1911/M1911A1 Pistols Website
http://usgi1911.tripod.com

 

[dsonyay]

dsk,
So I can get a pretty good cleaning of the interior by removing the hand grips and spraying a heavy dose of "crud spray" throughout the insides? I guess I would want to let this stuff dry out well.

I saw on C&S website and in magazine ads that they sell a bucket of "Dunk It". Would something along those lines be OK too?

Thanks!
David

 

[dsk]

Dunk-It will work, but it's expensive. What I do is use ordinary automotive brake cleaner (which is the same thing as the more expensive Gun Scrubber) and a plastic oil drain pan to catch the mess. First I wear safety glasses, as getting the stuff spat back in your eye hurts! Anyway, I usually just field strip, remove the grips, and hose the frame and slide down inside and out. It still takes an M-16 brush to scrub out certain nooks and crannys, like under the extractor (better yet, remove it and swab the hole with a Q-Tip). Afterward I shake it dry and let it sit on a rag or paper for a few minutes. I usually then go clean the barrel while waiting. The stuff evaporates really fast, but it leaves the surface bone dry, and with a white reside on the outside. I then apply a thin coat of oil to the outside and then wipe it clean with a rag. Afterward I oil the inner working parts and reassemble.

I've never found Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner to hurt any plastic used in the construction of a firearm, such as Glock frames and Colt MS housings. However, it will melt certain other plastics like Ram-Line magazines, so as always test on a small area before using on anything. It will also dissolve the white paint used for the dots on sights, but then again most gun solvents will anyway. All my guns with dots are painted with latex and a tiny camel hair brush. After a thorough cleaning I just simply reapply the paint.

------------------
D. Kamm
USGI M1911/M1911A1 Pistols Website
http://usgi1911.tripod.com

[This message has been edited by dsk (edited 11-28-2001).]

 

[dsonyay]

How do you get oil on all the interior parts
like trigger bow, disconnector, sear, etc, after the brake fluid dries up

Thanks for the help dsk,
David

 

[elsworth]

I would go every 1000 rounds or so, or every 6 months, if it is a carry a lot shoot a little gun.

This way you can inspect the parts for possible problems. I found a cracked sear this way one time.
And, I always find lots of dust kittens

 

[RickB]

I detail clean my gun only when I have it apart for some other reason. I don't fiddle too much with my guns (after initial fiddling, that is), but if I want to try a different mainspring, or want to install oversize hammer and sear pins, etc., I'll clean it while it's apart.

 

[dsk]

Originally posted by dsonyay:
How do you get oil on all the interior parts
like trigger bow, disconnector, sear, etc, after the brake fluid dries up

Aerosol Brake CLEANER! Brake fluid may yield undesireable results.

It's easy to lube the inards afterward, if you use an oiler with a long extention tube. I use Break-Free (the bottles, NOT the spray can).



------------------
D. Kamm
USGI M1911/M1911A1 Pistols Website
http://usgi1911.tripod.com

 

[dsonyay]

dsk writes:
Aerosol Brake CLEANER! Brake fluid may yield undesireable results.
------------

Oops! Typo. I meant spray. Thanks for the info, I'm sure it'll be very clean when I pick it up from Mr Middlebrooks after all the work is done. It'll give me something to do next year.

David