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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How to easily deal with the double recoil spring assembly without the "L" shaped tool

I thought I'd post a couple of links I've come across which readers of the Kimber forum may find useful. Maybe others can post to this thread tricks they've learned which make using the platform easier and safer.

I'm new to Kimber and struggle to break down my Ultra Carry and my Tactical Pro due to the design of the double recoil spring assembly used in both models. In the course of researching what I was doing wrong I came across these tools and links:

Here is a tool from 1911ultratool.com which replaces the "L" shaped tool on the Ultra models: http://1911ultratool.com/t.aspx?ToolKey=KU-2012%2cKU-459. It looks to me like the KU-2012.m is the way to go.

Here is a similar tool also from 1911ultratool.com for the Pro and Compact models: http://1911ultratool.com/t.aspx?ToolKey=KPT-2012,KPTC. Here it looks like the KPT-2012.m with the SC-100 spring compressor is the way to go.

For those of you who would rather not deal with an external tool at all, here is a link for how to remove and reinsert the Ultra model double recoil spring assembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSo1Y9QVJ8E.

For the Pro/Compact models it apparently is not possible to remove the double recoil spring assembly without an external tool. Here, however, is a link from 18echosf to a simple modification you can do which eliminates the need for a tool: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSne_GWjB4Y.

Lastly, I came across a way on one of the 1911ultratool.com videos to compress the double recoil spring assembly on the Pro/Compact models without an external tool. Compressing the spring assembly on the Ultra models is easily done with your bare hands. The Pro/Compact models, however, require Herculean strength and for me at least, has been rather painful. This link shows you at the 8 minute, 10 second point, how to use the Kimber slide as a compression tool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SBI1x1m49gw. I encourage you to watch the entire video for more information about this vendor's tools. They're very clever.

I'm thinking strongly about getting the tools mentioned above from www.1911ultratool.com, but I think first I'm going to do the mod recommended by 18echosf, and see if I can get away with no external tools at all.
 

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You can lose a lot of paper clips for the cost of one of the "improved" tools. :)

Kimber describes how to use the slide to compress the spring for replacement in the manual. Also, unlike the Ultra, the Pro doesn't have a dual recoil spring assembly.

I'd suggest you be wary of many of the things you see on Youtube about 1911's.
 

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Kruzr said:
You can lose a lot of paper clips for the cost of one of the "improved" tools. :)
Excellent point.
In addition, you can disassemble them with . . neither . . the "special tool",
or a paper clip.
 

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Excellent point.
In addition, you can disassemble them with . . neither . . the "special tool",
or a paper clip.
True of the Ultras not the Pro. The Pro guide rod isn't reduced at the front so you can't tilt it up while it's in the plug to clear the link.
 

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Having an "ultra-tool" (or something like it) is just another handy aide.
There is no reason not to use one when you're at your bench.
And you can always use one of the other take-down methods as well if you want too.
 

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I have to admit that I went out and go the Wilson flatwire recoil spring kit for my Super Carry Pro. No tool needed and it's supposed to last 10 times longer than a standard spring. I guess time will tell. Works as advertised, is it worth $50? To me yes but to others maybe not.
 

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I have to admit that I went out and go the Wilson flatwire recoil spring kit for my Super Carry Pro. No tool needed and it's supposed to last 10 times longer than a standard spring. I guess time will tell. Works as advertised, is it worth $50? To me yes but to others maybe not.
I got this for my compact - I just wish the little hole in the guide rod was better placed for those times my hands 'arthritis' is acting up and I need that little bit of help
 

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I have to admit that I went out and go the Wilson flatwire recoil spring kit for my Super Carry Pro. No tool needed and it's supposed to last 10 times longer than a standard spring. I guess time will tell. Works as advertised, is it worth $50? To me yes but to others maybe not.
Same here...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have to admit that I went out and go the Wilson flatwire recoil spring kit for my Super Carry Pro. No tool needed and it's supposed to last 10 times longer than a standard spring. I guess time will tell. Works as advertised, is it worth $50? To me yes but to others maybe not.
I like this solution. Did you get the whole kit (http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-Wire-Recoil-Spring-Kit-4-Compact-45-ACP/productinfo/651/)? Why didn't you get only the spring (http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-Wire-Recoil-Spring-4-Compact-22/productinfo/651C22/)? Was it because you wanted the shorter guide rod?
 

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I like this solution. Did you get the whole kit (http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-Wire-Recoil-Spring-Kit-4-Compact-45-ACP/productinfo/651/)? Why didn't you get only the spring (http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-Wire-Recoil-Spring-4-Compact-22/productinfo/651C22/)? Was it because you wanted the shorter guide rod?
It comes as a kit and all the parts work together...IMO well worth it! Although any tool is not required, the GR does come with the hole just in case.
 

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Kruzr said:
True of the Ultras not the Pro. The Pro guide rod isn't reduced at the front so you can't tilt it up while it's in the plug to clear the link.
Then how did I change my Pro HD into a .22 without the "tool"?
I also did one for my daughter.
 

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Then how did I change my Pro HD into a .22 without the "tool"?
I also did one for my daughter.
You would change the entire top end to convert it to a .22. Not a problem without using any tools on any 1911. What is being talked about is removing the guide rod and barrel from the slide after the slide is off the gun.

On your Pro, try to remove the guide rod and barrel from the slide without using a tool to compress the spring. Show us a picture of the guide rod clearing the link with the barrel still in place.
 

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You would change the entire top end to convert it to a .22. Not a problem without using any tools on any 1911. What is being talked about is removing the guide rod and barrel from the slide after the slide is off the gun.

On your Pro, try to remove the guide rod and barrel from the slide without using a tool to compress the spring. Show us a picture of the guide rod clearing the link with the barrel still in place.
 
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