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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a Wilson Combat Full Length Guide Rod and am having some trouble putting it in:confused: it never came with instructions,but hey! who uses those anyway!JK!!::rofl:
 

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Is the Wilson FLGR a two-piecer that unscrews via a hex "socket" in the end of the rod, or is it a one piece that has a "take down" hole drilled thru the rod near the muzzle end, or is it a one piece that has no take down hole?

Tell us exactly what you have, and we can tell you how to install it. Although, you'll get an overwhelming number of responses telling you to install it in the trash can. :D
 

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What is the problem, exactly? I had to remove ~ .030" of material from the FLGR I bought for my CCO build. This was easy (had access to a lathe) and expected, as virtually all after-market parts for 1911's come over-sized.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it is a one piece full length and is does not have a takedown hole.
 

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The plug came with it, yes? The "problem" with the FLGR is that you must turn the bushing with the gun in battery. If you have a nice, tight bushing fit, you are wearing it out every time you strip the gun, as the barrel is not concentric with bushing when in battery. You can turn the bushing while the slide is still off the gun, as then the barrel and the guide rod can move around a bit, and you're not putting excessive wear on anything, but I don't much like handling the greasy/oily top end when it's off the frame.
Push the guide rod in through the rear of the slide, push the recoil spring in through the front, put the top end on the frame, insert the slide stop, compress the recoil spring and plug until flush with the end of the slide, then rotate the bushing to lock the plug in place. Once you have the rod and spring in the slide, the assembly is the same as for a short rod, except the slide must be all the way forward in order to turn the bushing.
 

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suggestion

Test your gun with both (I assume it came with a real guide rod) and see if you can tell the difference.

If you cannot, remove FLGR and sell to next sucker.....

(like me :dope: , I have a 'collection' of FLGRs I don't use).
 

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RickB said:
The plug came with it, yes? The "problem" with the FLGR is that you must turn the bushing with the gun in battery. If you have a nice, tight bushing fit, you are wearing it out every time you strip the gun, as the barrel is not concentric with bushing when in battery. You can turn the bushing while the slide is still off the gun, as then the barrel and the guide rod can move around a bit, and you're not putting excessive wear on anything, but I don't much like handling the greasy/oily top end when it's off the frame.
Push the guide rod in through the rear of the slide, push the recoil spring in through the front, put the top end on the frame, insert the slide stop, compress the recoil spring and plug until flush with the end of the slide, then rotate the bushing to lock the plug in place. Once you have the rod and spring in the slide, the assembly is the same as for a short rod, except the slide must be all the way forward in order to turn the bushing.
Rick,
I believe the best method when using a FLGR is to drill the the one piece rod so it becomes a captive recoil system or use a good quality two piece FLGR.
I prefer to use a good quality centerless ground two piece FLGR, yes I've heard all the horror stories from those that claim to have shot the front part of the two piece rod down range. After shooting hundreds of thousands of rounds in guns using the two piece FLGR I have never experienced this problem, but then again I use good quality rods.
Using either of the above, after removing the complete top end from the receiver one can remove the complete recoil system why the barrel is in battery, then move the barrel forward out of battery to remove the nice tight fit barrel bushing.
This is one of the many pluses to using a FLGR.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
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