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How to Protect the Parkerized Finish on the RIA 1911

4317 Views 23 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  91B
Next week, I will be picking up a Rock Island Armory (RIA) 1911. One reviewer noted that the finish, especially the slide, gets scuffed up pretty easily. Is there anything I can do to reduce or eliminate that? Thanks
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Parkerizing is one of the most durable finishes you can have. Hence, all of the milary applications over time. The key is: it must be kept oiled. Do not let it get dry. Maintained properly, there's hardly any scuffing that can't get unscuffed.
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Field strip the pistol.
Slather it in good gun oil and let it soak overnight.
Then PAT it dry - don't wipe.
Good stuff, Maynard!
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Motorkote
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"Pat it dry". Very Important. Trying to wipe off Park is like trying to wipe off 220 grit sandpaper. The rag will be de-molecularized........
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When I got this gun ~15 months ago, I cleaned it and then I heated the frame a bit. It was probably Parkerized in the 90s when most of these were imported, and then not maintained since. Slathered on oil and left it overnight. Here it is wet with oil and under harsh light:

Cameras & optics Gas Film camera Trigger Machine


The oil basically dried into and on it and there was nothing really to clean off the next day. Looks great now:

Rectangle Handwriting Font Material property Hunting knife
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If you intend on shooting it and/or carrying it it will show some wear.
That is the nature of the beast.
Joe
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...The oil basically dried into and on it and there was nothing really to clean off the next day. Looks great now...
Thanks. I did an experiment with 5W-30 Chevron motor oil and a Benchmade knife with a blued finish. Soaking it for a few days did nothing. What type of oil did you use on your 1911 to get that effect? Thanks
Thanks. I did an experiment with 5W-30 Chevron motor oil and a Benchmade knife with a blued finish. Soaking it for a few days did nothing. What type of oil did you use on your 1911 to get that effect? Thanks
Blueing is different than Parkerizing, a Blued surface is not porous and won't soak up oil..
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Dont bother. Honest wear looks best.
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Thanks. I did an experiment with 5W-30 Chevron motor oil and a Benchmade knife with a blued finish. Soaking it for a few days did nothing. What type of oil did you use on your 1911 to get that effect? Thanks
Already answered, no effect on bluing. But for the record I think I used Mobil 1 10w30 HM. I glean the used jugs into a plastic bottle after oil changes. Only gun oil I've used for 10 or 12 years at least. I felt vindicated this past spring when I was at a CMP event and one of the Army AMU guys did an impromptu side clinic on how to obsessively maintain your AR and he recommended... Mobil 1! ;) (not that it's inherently better than another good synthetic motor oil, just what seemed to be the most used motor oil of that type)

Doing this does a lot to add protection to the finish and also make it more durable, it is not purely cosmetic - but it sure does help the appearance.

Here's another before/after pic. The PO got this '44 RR in 1968 and sold it to me in the past year. Here's his sale pic:

Air gun Trigger Wood Gun barrel Gun accessory


This is after I degreased it completely, cleaned it, heated it and then oiled it and let it sit:
Air gun Trigger Revolver Wood Gun barrel
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Johnsons Paste Wax works as well
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Kamerer has a ball vacuum. I am impressed. Never mess with a guy who has a ball vacuum.
Next week, I will be picking up a Rock Island Armory (RIA) 1911. One reviewer noted that the finish, especially the slide, gets scuffed up pretty easily. Is there anything I can do to reduce or eliminate that? Thanks
My RIA is deserving of and worth every bit what I paid for the rattle can of BBQ grill paint should I ever need to do any touch ups...

:)
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I agree with the keep it lubed, enough you can see the lube or Johnson paste wax when you carry in rain or snow. But if you carry in any plastic holster you are going to get scratches, just sitting in the holster that little bouncing around as you drive will eventually show some wear.

If you want the gun to show no wear, go with a leather lined holster or a nylon one. None of the plastic carry rigs are good for rubbing against Guns.
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Kamerer has a ball vacuum. I am impressed. Never mess with a guy who has a ball vacuum.

Heh heh. Some PBA championships were won with balls off that machine, I understand.

That’s actually my dad’s or maybe more properly his friend’s. My dad got into bowling a few years back. Being technical, he got into drilling and made friends with the guy at the lanes. He had retired from the Navy and airlines, and started drilling balls at a major bowling center nearby as a hobby. He is quite good. His wife wouldn’t let him keep it at home when she forced him to quit that job. ;) My dad agreed to house the machine and he balls for people now as a hobby. Some PBA championship balls were drilled on that machine over the years; my dad’s friend drilled and fit for some big names.
I can remember as a kid (1950s) seeing those machines in most bowling alleys - seemed like everyone had one and bowling alleys were everywhere. Back when sports had heavy balls and real men shot .45s..........
Next week, I will be picking up a Rock Island Armory (RIA) 1911. One reviewer noted that the finish, especially the slide, gets scuffed up pretty easily. Is there anything I can do to reduce or eliminate that? Thanks
Keep it well oiled. Most scuffs on Park will wipe off and vanish with gun oil rubbed into them.


Shoot the crap out of it.

Lots of draws from holsters.

In five years of steady use and daily wipe downs you will love the way it looks. Same can be said about blued guns.
New park can have the high points of the parking round and cause a scuffed look. I did it once on a military IMI hard slide. Best ways I know to avoid or minimize it
1. lube it well and rub it with a demin rags dampened with same oil, or..
2. oil well with a soft cloth and never use it
I bought some black oxide stuff online. When I get a large scratch, I clean it with alcohol then put some of that paste on the scratch and viola, it's gone!
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