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That is just about the best information i`ve every seen
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can now sit down in front of the comp and feel better about going deeper into the gun and removing parts, lol.
 

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Excellent animation! A reminder from this rookie would be to cover all spring loaded parts with your hand / fingers prior to unloading the tension on the springs. Those springs can fly a considerable distance, and then roll into great hiding places. :biglaugh:

Regards,
Dubster
 

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That is very cool! :rock:


In regards to the firing animation, isn't there some debate as to whether or not the gun unlocks before the bullet leaves the barrel?
 

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Excellent animation! A reminder from this rookie would be to cover all spring loaded parts with your hand / fingers prior to unloading the tension on the springs. Those springs can fly a considerable distance, and then roll into great hiding places. :biglaugh:

Regards,
Dubster

had this happen the other night,have done it a million times,I slipped taking the guide spring plug out, it rocketed out of the slide,heard it it 4-5 things in the room,then gone forever.Lucky I had Wilson doing some stuff to my compact at the time,so they could just throw the new one in the package.
 

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It's like a dream - that is wet!!
(excuse me, I need a moment alone)
:):rofl::)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
pretty neat isnt it. I feel better about whats inside their now and can take it apart if I need to. I dont really seet the point of doing so but it never hurts to understand your gun and how it breaks down.

THe most I have done is remove the sear spring and main spring housing thenjust blast some CLP up there and air gun it back out then put back together. That sear spring can bea bit tricky but if you do it wrong then the gun wont work so its obvious and not something small you could over look and pay for later.

As far as the initial break down I am going to start taking the slide stop out first then move the slide off the frame so that I can take the barrel out of battery while removing the bushing. By doing this there is less pressure on the bushing and on tight guns like my Baers its something you want to keep tight and by doing it this way it will preserve that. If not then the bushing has pressure on it and will apparently wear with time and not be as tight as it once was. I havent had any issues to date but I am going to start changing my method now.
 

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That is the best animation I have ever seen.

Why is it that 1911.org has all the cool links, information and data? :eek:
 

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That is the best animation I have ever seen.

Why is it that 1911.org has all the cool links, information and data? :eek:
That site is run by a dictator and he will not stand for being the 2nd best 1911 site on the 'net.
 

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one thing is vrong in the desassembly,

the hammer must be coocked to allow to pull out the thumb safety
Right. And on the reassembly, the video shows the TS being reinstalled the same way - with the hammer forward instead of cocked. There are also a couple of other things shown that I do differently - don't know if my way is necessarilyl right or wrong - just the way that I do it.

First, the video shows putting the trigger in, then the mag catch, and then the sear and disconnector. I put the trigger in, install the sear and disconnector, and THEN put in the mag catch. With the mag catch out of the gun, that allows me to use the trigger (with the pistol pointing down) to manipulate the sear and disconnector around to get the sear pin in.

Next, I do the reassembly in a different order, again related to what John-John said. Once the trigger, sear, disconnector and mag catch are in, then I . . .

- install the hammer,
- put the leaf spring in,
- start the MSH to hold the spring in place,
- put the GS into the tangs, turn the gun horizontal to line the hammer strut up with the MSH plunger, push the MSH in the rest of the way in and pin it,
- install the plunger tube guts,
- cock the hammer, and
- install the TS.

Great video, though!!!

best,
Jon
 
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