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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New Spg (loaded) owner, also my first 1911!--I don't like the non-safe mandated safety stuff (partially why I avoided Series 80's)and will probaly dump it, but have a very accurate gun with crisp 5llb-8oz TP --just instaled C and S sear spring -now 3-12 Tp!!!! -(love the Lyman triggger scale!)-will shoot tomorrow.
Thinking of a small dose of lock tite in the ILS so that it doesn't wonder off on
it's own--but trying to understand why elimination of the ILS would improve the trigger pull??
bob
PS. OT--thanks to the forum as I couln't fnd instructions elsewhere to remove the Ambi safety--had to pry harder than I thought should to get te right side off-the forum gave me the confidence--and knowledge--- to "pry" -(why can't folks that print books include this simple info?????Looked at multiple books and internet videos without the right info--or any info on ambi safetys!!!-found the info neede on a couple of blogs here!!)

PSS, Love this forum only place where a 66 year old is a Junior!!!
 

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I think the main improvement in trigger pull is because you replaced the 26 lb mainspring with a 19 lb-er. This reduces the force of the hammer hooks on the sear. Some of this translates into the amount of force required to trip your trigger.
 

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I dont know how or why, but it reduced my initial pull, and made the whole thing a little smoother. I dont know if it changed the break weight, but it did result in an overall positive experience for me.
 

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10ring said:
I think the main improvement in trigger pull is because you replaced the 26 lb mainspring with a 19 lb-er. This reduces the force of the hammer hooks on the sear. Some of this translates into the amount of force required to trip your trigger.
Correct!
 

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Hey Banker Bob

Don't know for sure, but my brand new out of the box Champion LW Operator has a great trigger.

I have three other Springers. Two without two with.

I cannot tell any diff except for the TRP which has been seriously worked and probably has a 3# trigger on it.

Don't worry about it unless you just want to go to non-ILS system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks

Thanks 10ring--
I have not yet replaced the mainspg-but probably will--I have figured out that the reason the one in the kit I bought was too long---but understand
I need a new plunger and maybe a base?--I think my drop of lock tite will stablize the ILS for as long as I need to shoot--so don't think there is a reason to replace the housing--as near as I can tell! bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks all

I have been shooting cowboy with 1.5 triggers--have figured out that the semi-auto needs a little more resistance--so will probably do the mainspring---then after a few thousand rounds willl deicde if I want to go lighter--but the trrigger is crisp --and the C & S slide sear spring is great!! (But does anyone know how hard it is to find out hope to take down a very stuck ambi saftey when you can't find out how it is built?? Spfld doesn't show you--my Wilson book doesn't address it nor does a few other books--but did find the solution on the forum!
bob
 

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removing ILS helps? Well, this I gotta try.

For those who are proponents of this, what are you replacing mainspring housing with?
 

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ARAGORN said:
removing ILS helps? Well, this I gotta try.

For those who are proponents of this, what are you replacing mainspring housing with?
My Trophy Match Longslide has a new S&A mainspring housing/mag well.
 

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It may also be that the cheap, mass-produced ILS MSH's have rough spring channels. The folks at SA know most buyers will replace them anyway so why bother making it a quality part. Somebody makes (and Brownells sells) a hone to smooth it up.
 

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BankerBob - yes, you are right in saying you need to replace the mainspring cap to make use of the C&S mainspring.

As for getting the Thumb Safety off, you need to take off the right grip panel, then carefully wiggle/pull/pry the left side of the Thumb Safety off. This should pull straight out. You might have to use something thin like an exacto blade to wedge under the Thumb Safety and pry it up carefully. Try to get the blade close to the pin before prying. After you get the right side off you can remove the left side like you normally would.
 

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You can also keep the ILS MSH functional by just removing the heavy mainspring and replacing it with a lighter weight mainspring cut to the same length as the one you removed.

This would be the cheapest way to see whether a lighter mainspring will make a difference for you, rather than buying a whole new MSH and the small parts to go with it. I think you can get a 19 lb. mainspring for $2 vs. about $40+ for a new MSH and parts.
 

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ARAGORN said:
removing ILS helps? Well, this I gotta try.

For those who are proponents of this, what are you replacing mainspring housing with?
Yes, it definitely helps. I went with an arched serrated stainless Smith and Alexander MSH for my loaded.
 

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