[thearmedrebel]

On mine

I replaced the hammer, sear, disconnector, slide stop, thumb safety, plunger tube, trigger and magazine catch. Not because I think MIM is necessarily "sub standard" but because I didn't care for the chrome finish on the stainless gun and I don't like serrated triggers. Two piece barrels aren't an issue, mine shoots way better than I can (and I can do a convincing job of tearing out the ten ring at 25 yards, BTW). If it comes apart, I'll send it to Springfield, but until then, it stays. The bushing and the lock-up have more to do with accuracy. My WWII GI is wearing all of its stock MIM parts sans trigger (now smooth) and magazine catch (now checkered) again with no ill effects. The trigger is a bit heavy at 7 pounds, but it breaks clean.

My advice, shoot it. Then, if you don't like something (because it's chrome or MIM or whatever) replace it. Most of us aren't going to see a dramatic improvement by switching in a $200+ barrel. Our money would be better spent on ammunition.

Just my 2¢, YMMV

Robert

 

[Shorts]

Shoot it until it breaks. When it does, then you know they were substandard parts. Until then, if it aint broke, don't fix it.

 

[SAWBONES]

No problem with a two piece barrel.

In addition to the parts on the above list, the firing pin stop is usually MIM.

 

[GunsnRovers]

The recoil guide and plug are not GI parts. Just reasonable copies.
.

 

[hillmillenia]

Thanks for the input...

My concern mainly is when I got the hammer out I saw a really poor engagement to the sear. It seems half of the metal "hook" is missing or was never there to begin with. The trigger pull is not terrible but must break around 7#. The "seam" on the 2-piece barrel has become apparent over time whereas it was un-noticeable when new. The gun shoots 5 inches at 25 yards and has a relatively loose fit. I know this pistol is capable of much better accuracy and overall performance. I'm leaning towards tackling these upgrades myself and am looking at all the parts available.

 

[joeydingo]

Sell it and buy a TRP.

 

[Shootcraps]

Shoot it until it breaks. When it does, then you know they were substandard parts. Until then, if it aint broke, don't fix it.

+1.

 

[sikhed]

Some things really dont matter if they're MIM. Like the grip safety, trigger pad and magazine release button. No stress at all in these, might as well be made of plastic (glad they're not though. Heard Kimber has a plastic MSH :barf: )

Like the others said, just shoot it till it breaks, then replace what's broke. That being said, I had the FP retainer plate replaced by the local gun parts dealer/gunsmith because mine bent and was causing problems with the extractor. The FP retainer was MIM, and it was cheaper to replace it with a steel one than to send the pistol to Springfield and have them replace it with another MIM part for free.

 

[Coltcustom1911]

Might want to rethink the idea that a mag release button being MIM is no concern. Several people with Kimbers have reported magazines falling out of their pistol while shooting because the mag release broke in half. I know MIM CAN be done right, and I know because it's cheaper it's going to be a fact of life. But that was one of the selling points for me between another "loaded" Springer and a new SIG Revolution a couple of days ago. For $200 more than the Springer, my new GSR has a checkered front strap, night sights, and NO MIM. Not knocking Springers, they are great guns. Just throwing my .02 in.

 

[RickB]

The only part that I really felt that I HAD to replace on my Mil-Spec was the bushing. My trigger was a bit heavy, and I fixed that, to my satisfaction, by dropping-in a STI sear; YMMV. If your hammer actually appears to be damaged or improperly made, send the gun back to Springfield.
Nickel-plated parts on "stainless" guns is pretty common. My Colt had nickeled hammer, mag catch, and FP Stop.

 

[SAWBONES]

I've had a MIM breakage under no stress at all. None. Just fell apart. (A new MIM aftermarket slide stop to be installed in a new gun, not yet installed, broke when picked up!)

Experience may be a harsher teacher than reasonable, but I just don't want ANY MIM parts on guns anymore.

"Shoot it till it breaks"? Why would anyone take that advice unless it's a "playtime only" gun?
If I'm going to carry it for CCW, I'll do everything I can, in advance, to be as assured as I can be that nothing will break.

 

[Shorts]

"Shoot it till it breaks"? Why would anyone take that advice unless it's a "playtime only" gun?
If I'm going to carry it for CCW, I'll do everything I can, in advance, to be as assured as I can be that nothing will break.

If its piece of mind that you need, by all means, go get it. But as much as I've shot stock pistols, I haven't had trouble. And yes, some are "playtime only". What's it to you?

 

[mitrod3]

my 1911's are divided into two categories...range guns and HD guns. one gets a little more latitude than the other as to what is expected as no option for failure on the Home Defense guns, not from my doing (or not doing) anyway. the HD guns are located in home to be just that and they are all upscaled (if that is the right term) from my fun guns.

you have already gotten some good advice. decide what you can live with and what you can't in terms of what the gun will be used for and what you expect out of it in what situation.

good luck and let us know how it goes.

be safe, shoot well.:rock:

 

[hillmillenia]

fair enough...

Thanks for all the advise...I supose we ask alot of questions we already know the answer to as well as ask for advise when we already know what we're gonna do...I recently finished up a CCL class and am in the process of sending in the ap. Can take up to 3 mos. but until then I would like to make sure this piece is free from problems...And yes it has been a good pistol but I still want to mess around with it. So the next big question is...Which parts do you guys recomend? I've been looking from std. american made...factory plus on through to top of the line Wilson and Ed Brown...I'm not convinced these name parts are really worth the extra dough when std. CS or SS parts have sufficed for years before these custom house parts. What say you? and thanks again.

 

[fourrobert13]

Answer

I got a Mil-Spec. It was 100% right out of the box. Nothing wrong with it, but to me it just looked boring. So I changed almost every thing. Trigger, hammer, mag release, slide stop, main spring housing (didn't like the arched), new full length guide rod (feels smoother), and of course to go along with trigger and hammer, a new sear and sear disconnect, and finally a new beavertail. will tell you that most was for cosmetic reasons, but the gun is still 100% and I think looks 100% better IMO. It's all in what you want and this is what I wanted.

 

[ranger]

hillmillenia, I hope none of this is a big surprise to you.

It's from the low-end of a mass maker, after all. You saved money by buying this model, and the make saved money by making it the way they did.

A LOT of people buy these with the plan of upgrading them, either piece by piece, or like you said, just using the frame/slide and replacing everything else.

So you're in good company, either way.

 

[willy.45]

No problem with a two piece barrel.

In addition to the parts on the above list, the firing pin stop is usually MIM.

My firing pin stop cracked with only 258 rnds and maybe 50-60 dryfires....:grumble:

 

[hillmillenia]

melancholy...

I miss the old days when guns were made of "real" steel throughout and the only plastic might be the grips...and they were usually wood...

 

[Boardride]

its a 400 dollar gun...