[sc.schultz]

I had my Caspian slide cut for heinie straight 8 slant pro sights. I'm aware that I need to file a little so it'll fit. My question is, which sides do you file (front or back) on both the dovetail and the rear, or does it not matter? Also, how far do you want the sight to go in before you hammer it in with a nylon hammer?

Thanks in advance.

:rock:

 

[sawyer]

I am in the same boat. I know you should not file the dovetail, fit the cheaper part. I think you should file the bottom of the sight, but I dont know how much of a friction fit you should have. Others here have done it and will help us out.

 

[Khufu]

I too FINIALLY recieved the sights I ordered from MMC in December. I have just started to machine off the slide and dovetail it. since my sights are NOT adjustable for windage they must be tight enough to NOT move with the set screw tightened and loose enough to be able to field adjust them. since I have never carried a plastic hammer deer hunting, it has to be movable with what you would usually carry to service the weapon my 9mm slide has sights adjustable for windage, so I fit them tight and loc-tited them for keeps. I will file on the sight (bottom)to fit the slide. I added index marks to my sight so I have a point of reference if I have to move them for windage. if I find that after firing a few hundred rounds the sight walks a little I can always centerpunch the dovetail on the slide a little to increase friction with non adjustable sights I have noted a slight shift of horizontal POI between 10mm and 40 S&W, though it may be a barrel fit difference between the 2 barrels, but I will need windage adjustment.

 

[blindhogg]

First off ensure you get the appropriate 60 or 65 degree dovetail file from Brownells. I too only file the sight, I file until the sight can tightly go halfway in with my hands before hammering with a nylon headed hammer.
Chris

 

[Greyhoundman]

I just put the sights on my new 1911 and the front sight was actually a little too small out of the box it would slide nearly frictionless from side to side in the dovetail cut. Since I did not know what to do with it I simply applied some locktite and it seems to be holding tight for now but not sure what I will do with it if it comes loose.

 

[WillBrink]

I will file on the sight (bottom)to fit the slide.

The bottom? I would have thought the side of the site vs the bottom. The width of the site does not change if done on the bottom no? Anyone have a URL, thread, etc to the best way of fitting front sites? Remove metal from slide or sight? I would think from sight as the better option for future possible changes i sights...

 

[Dasanii19]

If you do file, use sand paper and only a tiny bit at a time!!!! Learn from my mistakes!!

 

[Dos Cylindros]

The bottom? I would have thought the side of the site vs the bottom. The width of the site does not change if done on the bottom no? Anyone have a URL, thread, etc to the best way of fitting front sites? Remove metal from slide or sight? I would think from sight as the better option for future possible changes i sights...

I think they are talking about fitting the rear sight in the dovetail, not a front sight. I am curious about this as well, as I am considering swaping out my Novak rear for a 10-8 rear sight.

 

[diesel79]

I just ordered a 10-8 rear. I dont have the sights yet, but I am also wondering how tight the fit is/should be between the sight and the slide. Do they generally slide snugly in with the push of a finger from the get -go, or does the sight usually have to be filed a bit?

 

[John Harrison]

When fitting replacement dovetail sights, measure the depth of the dovetail cut with a depth micrometer or dial caliper and compare that to the dovetail height. The two should be within .001" or less difference. If the sight's dovetail is taller than that, file evenly from the bottom of the sight's dovetail until it's within .001". That will narrow the dovetail width slightly.
If you have a XS dovetail measuring tool, you can compare the old sight width to the new one to get an idea of how much to remove. If you don't, you'll have to use the test fit and file method.
Using the correct dovetail file, file material evenly from the rear facing side of the dovetail. If you'll cut the rear face only, the corner created by the dovetail and sight body will help guide your file and keep it straight. Also on a Heinie sight, if you took the metal only from the front side of the dovetail and your machined sight cut in the slide was made in such a manner to be on the close side to the front or rear vertical step downs, you might make the sight hit those step downs when you try to install it.
Make sure you file evenly and do not work the face into a tapered dovetail. You can color it with a magic marker every few strokes so you can see where the metal's coming off. Take 6-8 strokes at a time then test fit and repeat until it will start into the dovetail. You want the sight to be tight in the dovetail, but not to the point that you deface the side of the sight by beating it into place. I'd rather err toward the side of needing a drop of locktite down the setscrew hole. Hope this helps.

 

[diesel79]

Yes John that definitely helps. That being said I think Im just gonna send it to you instead