The only way I can get the slide stop on my MC Operator back in is using a punch that I stick through the ejection port to push back the pin while sliding the slide stop into position (I use the back side of the slide stop to push the punch back out the ejection port, which results in the slide stop landing in place). Of course, you have to put a cleaning pad on the edge of the ejection port so you don't scratch it, but it's a pretty simple fix.
This sort of brings me to a quesiton I've had for a while. My slide stop won't go in worth a damn. Seriously, there HAS to be something wrong! I think the spring loaded pin is too long. It's an SA MC Operator. I've done everything I can to make it work right, but it just won't. This is my first 1911 and I realize that putting the slide stop back in place is a notoriously difficult procedure, but mine is impossible without the method I describe above. I've followed instructions and looked at the videos HERE, but it just won't work. On his pictures it looks like his pin is a hell of a lot shorter than mine and has more of a rounded nose than mine does. Is there a chance that my pin is out of spec? Since this is the gunsmithing forum, is there something I can do about it?
I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but I'm willing to be the original poster and I are having similar issues.
The Widget is made by Pachmayr, and is just a swizzle stick with a flattened end you can slip under the slide stop to depress a too-long plunger to seat the lever. You ought to be able to improvise something by grinding down a toothbrush handle or just a strip off last year's credit card.
The plunger should be short enough (that is, protrude little enough) that pressing the slide stop against it will cam it into the tube, and allow the slide stop to pass. If the pin protrudes too far, any pressure on it results in a bending force, and the plunger won't cam back. Shortening the plunger can be a fix, but it depends on the individual fit of the parts; if you just shorten the plunger enough so the slide stop can be pushed past it, there may be no spring pressure on it. It could also be the plunger tube is incorrectly located. You have to determine why the plunger is protruding too far into the slide stop window, before you start cutting on anything.
Thanks for the reply. I don't have any trouble getting my slide stop back in I just worry about scratching my frame while reinstalling it with oily fingers. I tried the credit card trick. Maybe I just need to cut a smaller piece. Anyway, thanks for the link.
Thanks for your replies! This issue has really been grating on my nerves.
Since I'm a n00b, I thought I'd take a few pictures to show you guys what's going on (please ignore the dog hair in the carpet . . . you really see these things when you're taking closeups ). I bought this pistol NIB back in July or August (can't remember off the top of my head) and have put about 750ish rounds (the vast majority of which were WWB with some Federal and Winchester JHPs) through it since that time. I clean it every time I go to the range, and I usually fire about 200 rounds per visit. Everything has worked without so much as a hiccup as far as I can recall.
1st Pic: Eveverything put together, closeup on area of concern
2nd Pic: Same area, slide stop out; I've highlighted areas of concern. You can see that the frame and front portion of the SS cutout seem to be taking a beating; is this a larger problem? You can also see that the plunger pin is long and not very rounded off. If I put the wrong pin in the wrong place (i.e., if this is the thumb safety pin and not the SS pin) could you tell from this picture? I'm not the sharpest hammer in the drawer, so it's possible . . .
3rd Pic: Now I've put the slide stop in (loosley) to show how far the pin protrudes into the area where the SS will be; you can see that the pin goes just about to the middle of the rounded top of the SS. Does it look too long?
4th & 5th Pics: These are just pictures of the SS itself. It's clearly an MIM part (I don't know enough to have an opinion on this, but I thought it might be useful information); these pictures are intended to show what's happening to the SS with the hope that they can help you determine if I have a bigger (or different) problem on my hands than I think I do.
After looking at these pictures, give me your educated opinion on whether the pin is too long and whether the frame, slide and SS are taking more of a beating than they should. If you think I'm just a moron who doesn't know how to re-insert the SS properly, let me know that, too. Like I said, this has been something of a concern to me for a while, but I didn't want to look like an idiot by asking about it on this forum until it came up. Thanks!
Wear areas look pretty normal to me, except I don't know what that divot in the bottom of the slide stop shaft is caused by. Unless it is a mold mark.
Your plunger protrudes more than the Colt, Caspian, and Springfield I just looked at. It should be short enough for the bevel on the slide stop to depress so you can reassemble the gun without a tool.
Maybe the plunger is too long past its shoulder, maybe the shoulder in the plunger tube is too far forward. Hard to do anything about the tube, but you can shorten the plunger tip. Chuck it in an electric drill and apply file and stone to shorten and round it until it works.
The wear on the top of your slide stop is from the slide while the pistol is cycling. It's far from ideal, there should be clearance there. It could possibly tie up your gun.
Your slide stop pin is getting whacked pretty hard as indicated by the deformation shown in the picture. Look for a mark on your barrel's lower lugs. Two pieces of steel are beating the heck out of each other, and both will show the scars. This will NOT "wear" in since metal is not being removed, it's being displaced. Your pistol will get the clearance it needs, but you may have a part failure (slide stop pin) before it occurs.
The marks on your frame are perfectly normal. They are the result of a moving metal part - your slide stop - taking off the finish as it arcs.
The problem you're having reinserting your slide stop is likely caused by the plunger tube and the way the plunger fits inside. It's irritating, but you'll probably either have to live with it or swap out the tube for one that is built to spec. I'd try another plunger and spring assembly first, though. They're inexpensive and a spare is nice to have on hand.
The nick on the leading edge of the disassembly notch on your slide was likely caused by misalignment during reinsertion of the slide stop. Most folks find great relief after that particular event by using the most colorful language available.....loudly and often. :biglaugh:
I just recently did some work on the plunger. The first thing I noticed is that the shorter end goes toward the slide stop. I can't tell from the above pictures whether your plunger is in the right way because there is no pic of the other side of the plunger. It definitely looks like it is too long for the slide stop end, but if it is, I would think it needs to be shortened.
I took a piece of 1000 grit sandpaper and rounded the end of the plunger. This also polished it slightly, but finished with some Flitz. I did this to both ends of the plunger. Now my slide stop is easier to insert and I have had more positive slide lock on the last round. The thumb safety also moves more easily as it was getting stuck slightly when moving the safety up. Now moves easier, but still with the nice click.
Excellent pics. The plungers cannot be swapped; the smaller-diameter one (for the slide stop) must go in the tube first. JMB thought of everything.
It does look like the slide stop is a bit too "tall", and is rubbing on the slide as it cycles. Kuhnhausen specifies the proper gap, at rest, but I don't have that one memorized; .015"? I assumed the "deformation" of the slide stop pin was a mold mark of some kind, as opposed to wear or damage caused by firing. Other than the circular mark on the bottom of the pin, the wear patterns look pretty normal, don't they?
The "wear" marks you show on the TOP of the slide stop are likely from fitting work done by Springfield at the factory. My new fullsize loaded has the same marks, and to me, it was obviously from Springfiel'd fitting of the part.
I've been out of town for a few days, but I think I'm going to order a new plunger and spring setup and (once I get the new part) try and grind the original down to fit better . . . I don't want to start "modifying" anything until I have it's replacement ready!
The round "indention" on the slide stop pin is, indeed, a molding mark. I think I'm going to add a new slide stop to the plunger and spring order. The MIM parts may not be any less functional, but it "seems" to be less durable (by feel and weight if nothing else). Where can I get one for my gun that will match the original (finish and looks, yet not be MIM), and will there be any "fitting" required to make it work?
The wear mark on the top of the slide stop did not exist when I first got the gun (the first thing I did was clean everything when I got home from the gun show). I may attempt to remove a very slight amount of metal there, too. Is this adviseable?
P.S. -- The key to the pictures being decent is that I took HUGE pictures and cropped then resized them so they'd show details . . . it's not good photography!