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Kroil is a lousy penetrant and not billed as a lubricant.
That vid is flawed in more ways than lies from the Whitehouse.

You simply cannot compare break torque when the rust per fitment are not all the same. He never says he made sure all the rusting was exactly the same, which of course they are not. His test as-is is considered a fail by every person who knows how to lab test, or to create a test to collect experimental data.

Probably better to just torque some clean dry hardware to a torque #, say 125ft-lb, apply some "penetrating" fluid, wait 1hr, then see what the break torque is to undo them.

I use Kano quite a bit, never needed to apply it 3 times, and I use the liquid, not spray, applied via small needle vial. It then sits for an hr or so, longer if the part looks really rustey and locked up.

And, The Kano in that vid did beat all but one on the "3rd bolt" test, and was just a hair above the ATF.
 

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Kroil is a lousy penetrant and not billed as a lubricant.

That guy is nuts, Kroil has a fifty-year record in industry as a great penetrant. The only one better is Sili-Kroil. Also, since DW recommends Kroil, which is a strong solvent and oil mixture, 'solvents' could not be harmful to that finish.
Ballistol is way down the line with solvent strength and harmless to metals in guns, plastics, wood and wood finishes, bluing, Parkerizing, epoxy and baked-on finishes.
 

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As Mark Twain said, it's easier to fool people than to convince them that they've been fooled. :whistle:
 

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This is from the DW manual and is the part that addresses this discussion:

"High-quality cleaning solvent (barrel only) Sol-vents can discolor your Duty Finish. Kroil is also recommended and Duty Finish safe • Oil based cleaner (polymer safe) for the rest of the gun • High-quality gun oil *such as FP-10, Militec-1 or Dan Wesson Rail Lube * Also required before shooting the handgun for the first time • We do not recommend the use of Rem oil, CLP or Hoppe’s elite gun oil on the rails of our firearms."

I forgot to add FP-10 in my earlier post as their recommended lubricant. As others have said, and I agree, Kroil is an excellent cleaner but not much for lubrication. FP-10 takes care of that nicely.

You probably should go with the manufacturer's recommendations, but those who disagree can do whatever they want. Its not my guns risking ruination.
 

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Hickok 45 is always touting how great it is, but I get the feeling they are one of his sponsors. The only use I've found for it is spraying it diluted with water (it's water based) down barrels after shooting corrosive ammo ( I guess it's also good rinsing out black powder residue).
 

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I have 2 DWs, a stainless specialist commander & a 9mm TCP.

in both guns, I followed the manufacture’s break in, lube and cleaning directions- have had zero problems with finish issues on my TCP or galling on my Specialist

Dont understand why after spending big bucks on a gun, some disregard the cleaning and lube directions
 

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Reading this is like reading a thread about a 380acp will not kill as effectively as a 9mm. Not one answer that will satisfy 100% of the people. I will never use Comet, Drano or TidyBowl....every other cleaner I have probably used at one time or another. Not to be a smart A_S...CLP has been my go to cleaner for most of my firearms...poly or steel. I am still not comfortable reading where a normal break down and clean of a 1911 is only recommended about 500 rds in many places I have read. I have always been one to clean after each range use....50 or 250 rds. Not saying I am right, and that is one of the reasons of why I am here...to learn about 1911 maintenance.
 

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tell us about the anti seize please!
 
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