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Jam session

2362 Views 36 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  Levian
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Took out the Ria 10mm HC 16rd. 1911 to day. It sucked to say the least. I have 3 new factory mags. One of them ran ok (only jammed once), the other 2 were about 50% at best. The rounds jammed hard into feed ramp lip (see scratch on brass in pic). Just wondering if I want to mess with it or just sell it.:mad:
P.S. Feed ramp not the smoothest I've ever seen.
Air gun Trigger Wood Gun barrel Gun accessory

Bicycle part Rim Cylinder Wood Auto part

Rectangle Font Electric blue Wood Auto part
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Well I decided that I'm going to properly clean & lube it, and just have fun with it. I thought I'd go all blue so I changed the front sight to a blue fiber optic rod. I do not recommend this as blue does not glow like red or green. I'll eventually change it back. I figure what the heck? It keeps me out of trouble.;)
Air gun Trigger Office equipment Wood Line
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if the Jam happens with the rim of the cartridge touching or close to the extractor its PROLLY the extractor, if it happens with the nose touching the top of the barrel and the bottom of the feedramp with the base not on the extractor or sometimes not even out of the mag it is GENERALLY a mag issue.

Do what they told you and load your mags and leave them loaded.

Go here and read.
Extractor fitting

Youll probably get your problem solved with doing those things. Dont be scared, its alot of information. Read it, digest it, ask questions if you need to, and then fix your gun.
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10mm extractors are normally fit in the same manner as 9mm extractors with the edge of the claw making hard contact with the flat area of the case immediately in front of the case rim.

However, I would modify the OEM extractor to fit in the same manner as a .45 extractor. BIf the geometry of the OEM extractor won't allow this, I would fit an EGW .45 extractor.B10mm rim diameter is large enough to successfully fit a .45 extractor to the pistol using the .45 fitting method in which the necessary contact between the extractor and case happens between the extractor's tensioning wall and case rim.

Below is a pic of the common method of fitting a 10mm extractor where the extractor claw makes contact with the case "A" while the tensioning wall "C" does not make any contact. In this instance, reducing the claw height will allow the case rim to contact the tensioning wall. Also, reducing the height of the fitting pad will allow getting the correct .010" of deflection. During the process of the setting the deflection the claw height will have to be further reduced to prevent if from contacting the case while still being tall enough to get a good grip on the rim during extraction.
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I wouldn’t polish on anything until I knew for sure the extractor is set up right, and that it has the proper chamfers for the cartridge to make it up under the extractor and on to the breech face smoothly!
I agree with this statement...... Thats the last thing I would do personally
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I wouldn’t polish on anything until I knew for sure the extractor is set up right, and that it has the proper chamfers for the cartridge to make it up under the extractor and on to the breech face smoothly!
@Michael W Cuber I would personally stay away from SnB ammo.... Try round nose cases
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First step that I would take would be to fill all three of the mags completely full. Let them set that way for a couple days or until you can shoot it again and see if that helps. Often new mags do better after getting the spring to set, perhaps more so with single stacks but I’d give it a try.

If the gun is also new, make sure it is well lubricated and perhaps a little ”wet”.
Got to go with pop guy bought me some new mags for my 1911 and until the spring got set or broke in every how you want to say it they did a screwy job of loading that baby up after they got broken in they were fine
Mine was literally dripping when I examined it at the FFL. I know some say to run these wet, but there's wet, and then there's WET. Mine was the latter. I don't think that's your whole problem, but it can't hurt to get some of the excess lubricant off.
They're usually saturated in cosmoline. Cosmoline isn't a lubricant. It's a preservative (they ship the guns from The Philippines by boat). All that has to come off. A detail strip is necessary - that should always be the first step.
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They're usually saturated in cosmoline. Cosmoline isn't a lubricant. It's a preservative (they ship the guns from The Philippines by boat). All that has to come off. A detail strip is necessary - that should always be the first step.
Yep. Step 1 after acquiring a parkerized pistol - complete tear down and degrease the stuffing out of it. Step 2: reassemble, and lube things per normal.

I do the same for non-parkerized pistols too, now that I think about it.

Edit: Cleaning up a half completed thought that was rushed out.
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First step that I would take would be to fill all three of the mags completely full. Let them set that way for a couple days or until you can shoot it again and see if that helps. Often new mags do better after getting the spring to set, perhaps more so with single stacks but I’d give it a try.

If the gun is also new, make sure it is well lubricated and perhaps a little ”wet”.
I had to do that with my Wilson ETM mags. GEEZ, those mag springs are strong! I loaded them all up and left them for 3 weeks. Much better after that.
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Well turns out it was an ammo issue after all. I did everything that y'all suggested and took it out today still using S&B ammo and it was a jam o matic again. Then I loaded it with some Sig Sauer Elite Performance ammo and it solved the issue. I am now officially boycotting S&B ammo. It makes me wonder about other brands I have such as Remington green and white box, Winchester and Federal. I hope they are better quality being American made vs the Czech Republic. I guess that's what I get for using cheap ammo. I think I bought it during the last ammo shortage. Luckily I only had a couple of boxes.
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weird.. I like s&b..
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Well turns out it was an ammo issue after all. I did everything that y'all suggested and took it out today still using S&B ammo and it was a jam o matic again. Then I loaded it with some Sig Sauer Elite Performance ammo and it solved the issue. I am now officially boycotting S&B ammo. It makes me wonder about other brands I have such as Remington green and white box, Winchester and Federal. I hope they are better quality being American made vs the Czech Republic. I guess that's what I get for using cheap ammo. I think I bought it during the last ammo shortage. Luckily I only had a couple of boxes.
Through the readings, through the years, S&B occasionally has spells of causing reliability issues in some guns. Could be caused by specific powder lots. Just a SWAG because it is the recoil impulse, short stroking, etc. type malfunctions. A pistol set up for 10mm would be more prone to those malfunctions with reduced recoil impulse. I bought 500 rounds of 45 ACP at a dynamite price a few years back (COVID masking era) and it shot very well. Afterward I caught a few sales and performance was equally as good. Of course, YMMV. We all need to 'read' our guns.
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Per what Magnumite said, I wouldn't write off S&B ammo. It's been good stuff in my experience. Could just be a case of that particular gun doesn't like that particular brand, and they'd function perfectly fine in the next 1911. Or run A-OK if the gun were set up with a slightly weaker recoil spring, but I wouldn't go that route unless it's a range toy.

I just wouldn't put S&B through that specific gun unless I were looking to do some malfunction clearing practice.
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