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I have been doing some reading on feed ramp polishing and it would appear the way to do it is with Q-tips, Jeweler's Rouge, a Dremel tool and a double helping of brains and patience.

My question is where could a fella buy jeweler's rouge?

Thanks,

Basserino
 

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Brownells probably have it but I bought jeweler's rouge in a local hardware store several years ago.
 

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I'm with Art. The last I bought was a big block of rouge, I'm guessing about 5" long, 2 1/2" wide, maybe 7/8" thick at Pleasant's Hardware in Richmond, VA. That should last you a week or two..........

Rich
 

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Jewelers rouge

...Just about any Dental suppy company...but rouge would be the very last thing you would use after going from 320 to 1500 wet or dry sandpaper...check the search forum ..this has been covered a bunch :)
Barry
 

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Go with what bjg-1911 said.

I guess a lot of the misunderstanding about ramp "polishing" is we don't make clear that what we actually mean is ramp "SMOOTHING", NOT mirror polishing.

In fact polishing a ramp to a mirror shine, may actually ruin a barrel or frame. The problem is, in order to get the metal to that shine, you may have to remove too much metal.

The object here is to remove any roughness that might cause a bullet to hang up, NOT to make the ramp pretty.

Using fine abrasives to lightly de-burr and smooth the ramp is all that's necessary, and usually is all that's advisable.

Some custom 'smiths offer the mirror polish for no other reason than that people want it. If it ain't shiny, they're disappointed, and are sure the job isn't properly done.

With that said, if you want a rouge, it comes in yellow, red, white, brown, green, and black, depending on the "cut" and what metal you're polishing.

The best source is either a professional jeweler's supply house like S, LaRose at: http://www.slarose.com

or from Brownell's. Brownell's offer more in the line of gun-specific products for steel.
 

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Gosh, I don't believe I've ever ruined a barrel or frame or any other part by polishing it with jeweler's rouge. Remove too much material with jeweler's rouge? I think you'd wear out a Dremel first. You do have to use some common sense here.

I guess you could also cut a frame or barrel or comp or whatever in half if you polished it long enough, but then, that's silly, too........

And don't forget to break the ramp/chamber juncture just a bit, and polish the top of the chamber and ....................

Rich (make mine shiny please......) in VA
 

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I am with Rich. I have polished a lot of knife blades and jewelry as I was a jeweler and also a part time knifemaker for quite a few years. There are only a couple of buffing compounds that will remove metal that quickly even on the softer barrel steel (when compared to knife blades). In order to damage steel that fast you would need a sisal buff and some black buffing compound. Use common sense. A dremmel tool with a fine felt buff adequate to the contour of the surface to be polished, and some green compound intended for gold polishing won't hurt a thing.
My .45's have barrels by Barsto and Wilson. Both ramps are mirror shiny as they came from the makers.
Look at these places for buffing compounds

www.kovalknives.com/

www.knifeandgun.com/
 

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What I mean by this is:
Too many people hear "polished" and think "Mirror".

In attempting to get the mirror finish, they use coarse abrasives or even files to level out all imperfections, THEN polish with rubber tips and rouge to get the shine.

By this time, the ramps may have been altered to the point that the barrel ramp is unsalvageble. I had one case of a frame that was ruined.

Using rouge won't destroy the ramps, AS LONG as you don't try for a PERFECT mirror surface.

Again, a mirror finish is strictly an appearance "thing". The object is to prevent a bullet catching on something.
All that's necessary for reliability is a SMOOTH surface.

The problem is, beginning shooter's may not know the difference. The problems start when an inexperienced gun owner hears about shining up the ramps, and when the rouge doesn't give the desired perfect shine, out come the files, sandpaper and other abrasives.

That's when people like me have to explain that the expensive barrels no longer any good, and they didn't mean "like a perfect mirror".
 

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I use Flitz to polish my ramps. This seems to be the least abrasive of all. It smooths things out and gives a mirror shine.

Any problems with using Flitz ? (tell me now before I do the other 3 barrels this weekend ;-)
 

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Eagle One mag wheel polish is a white paste...thats is like a jewler's rouge....they actually mention that it is a rouge on the back.


This can be found at most auto parts stores.

I use on any metal I want to polish. I also like to wet sand with 2000 grit depending on the material/surface.
 

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Subliminal said:
I use Flitz to polish my ramps. This seems to be the least abrasive of all. It smooths things out and gives a mirror shine.

Any problems with using Flitz ? (tell me now before I do the other 3 barrels this weekend ;-)
Flitz works great! Lot's of experience with it. You can do it with a finger and a paper towel.
 

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rouge at "... Pleasant's Hardware in Richmond, VA."

Hey, so did I. It's my home away from home since I have one of those 100-y-old houses in that neighborhood.

I use a lot of Flitz, too.

John
 

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Dremel sells a Thimble size container that you can find where they sell Dremel attachments. I put some on a Felt Bob, polish and then take a new felt bob and Buff.
 

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While everyone else is telling you about the rouge.

FORGET the q-tips unless its an area where you cant use the proper Felt bobs. Get them where the dremel is sold or Home Depot, Lowes, Sears and others They sell a polishing kit that has quite a bit of polishing stuff in it.

IF anyone has ruined a barrel using 320 -2000 Paper and/or felt Bobs Id like to hear about it.

If anyone picks up a FILE a a precurser to POLISHING the feedramp .............STEP AWAY FROM YOUR WORKBENCH, Put the tools DOWN, Do not work on a firearm.

Larry P
 

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scalinghammer,

I wouldnt suggest doing your first one with Cratex.

You can do it faster, but I dont think the polish is as good and with Cratex you remove metal much faster than a buffing wheel.

If your going to Start with a Cratex and you havent used one I would suggest your try it out on a scrap piece of metal.

If you gett the wrong grit Cratex will remove metal at a pretty decent rate.

I start with Cratex and end with the buffing wheel.
 
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