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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am fairly new to the 1911 scene and my first is a CD FS two tone.

I am impressed so far, especially for the money. I read here that the later FS models that had CD in the SN were turning out better and that is what I have.

Anyway, I wanted to jazz it up a bit, so I added some SS hex head grip screws, wrap around finger groove grips, and a full lenght guide rod.

Anybody else use a full lenght guide rod on their CD? how do you know it works correctly?

Also, I want better sights, where do I go?
 

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As long as you've installed the FLGR correctly (gun won't work otherwise), it's "working".

Basically all a FLGR is good for is a bit of extra weight, as it has no other real function that would in any way justify it's cost.

Personally I like them on competition guns for the weight, but use a modified 2-piece Group Gripper FLGR so that I have the heavy spring pushing against a stock link to help with a consistent lockup. The modified link is prone to cause jams and I can't see how it performs any better than my setup.

My EFS doesn't have a FLGR at this time.

The finger groove grips are only good if they fit your hand.

I'm still waiting for some kind of answer from CD as to what kind of dovetail they use for their sights. James beam will liely check in on the sights as I believe the FS model uses a standard dovetail rear sight.

It's best not to start adding stuff to a 1911 until you have some sort of need for it. So far you've spent a bit of money, yet still have a crappy non-adjustable trigger and cast extractor.

Trigger and extractor replacment is a top priority on these pistols, and there's quite a few other cast parts that could be replaced before you need to spend money on "jazzing" it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the input,
I only spent 15 bucks on the FLGR so if it helps at all(which I was told it helps keep the spring from binding) I am not bad off.

I have now way of knowing if it helps the spring because the spring was fine before, but maybe I prevented something down the road??????

I'll have to look into the cast parts, but I think I'll keep the trigger, it is fine for me so far. How hard is it to replace the extractor, and what should I look for in a replacement part?
 

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I also have a FS two tone, I also use a FLGR, the gun will cycle normally, no binding, should cycle like it did before. I am Fixing to install a EA rear ghost ring sight, and Caspian Front w/fiber optic insert.
 

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Sorry for the second post. I replaced my extractor with an Ed Brown Match Grade #1301. Pull out the existing extractor, and install the new one. Now take an empty case and a loaded one, with the slide in your hand, place the round and case (one at a time) against the breech and behind the extractor hook. Gently shake the slide side to side, if the case or round falls out, take the extractor out, and put it back in half way where the flat would be facing out if you could see it, and bend it away from the slide, go a little at a time, and don't Conan it, it will bend more than you think it did. Re-install it, and repeat the above procedure until it holds the case/round. If you have problems e-mail me.
 

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The extractor is nothing that a file won't take care of.

Buy an Ed Brown since I've never had to adjust the more than 20 I've bought. Regardless of the brand, there will be maybe 1/16" or so protruding from the back of the slide, as CD isn't quite as interchangable as most 1911s. File the excess off and cold blue it to complete the project.

The ejector will also have the same problem, but I'm now of the opinion that the cast part is OK.

FLGRs are part of a continuing debate that's never going to end. They make takedown a bit more complicated and add a bit of weight, so there's two things that can't be argued. 1911s work fine without it, so there's no way of telling if it does any good. For the samll amount you paid, what the heck. I was afraid you had spent $50+ on one.
 

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Originally posted by Door Kicker:
Anyway, I wanted to jazz it up a bit, so I added some SS hex head grip screws, wrap around finger groove grips, and a full lenght guide rod.
Door Kicker,

If you don't mind my asking, what brand Hexhead screws did you use? I tried the Ed brown Hex head screws at a gun show earlier today but they wouldn't fit. The tread was different. What about the FLGR? What brand fits the Daly? Is it one-piece? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The parts are from Dillon Press I can't remember the Brand name off the top of my head. But is is whatever they carry.

The FLGR is two piece SS. The local range is a Dillion stocking dealer and gives decent discount at the counter on stocked items.
 

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My CD came with a FLGR, I've had one in a Colt Commander about 10 years, don't see any real advantage. I don't think there's really any way to put it in wrong. I am going to replace my trigger with a Dlask ultralight and the grip safety with a beavertail. I use the ultra slim carry grips, they fit my hand like a glove. Can't stand the finger grooves.
 

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Malmon you have to change out grip bushings
in order to use standard allenhead screws.

Doorkicker CMC rearsights are great.

full length guide rodes are pretty much as Walking Point hade said.

JB
 

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Originally posted by james beam:
Malmon you have to change out grip bushings
in order to use standard allenhead screws.
JB
Hi JB,

I only have one problem, my grip bushings aren't screw on. They seem to be riveted to the frame. Were yours riveted as well? If so, how'd you remove them and with what brand of bushings did you replace them with? As always, thanks for the advice JB!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by malmon:
Hi JB,

I only have one problem, my grip bushings aren't screw on. They seem to be riveted to the frame. Were yours riveted as well? If so, how'd you remove them and with what brand of bushings did you replace them with? As always, thanks for the advice JB!


My grip screws went right in, without replaceing bushings.
 

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Door Kicker, I just bought a new CD and had to replace the grip bushings cause the ultra slim grips use thinner bushings. They had radial lines on the inside that may have looked like they were riveted but they're not. They're staked in. I managed to get mine out with a big pair of pliers without damaging the frame or finish on the frame. That may sound somewhat crude to a professional gunsmith but it worked just fine. Destroyed the old bushings. I screwed in the new bushings without any problem at all. I've never heard of a 1911 with riveted bushings but they are often staked in.
 

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Malmon howdy".

your g-bushing should just unscrew out.....

my did easly enough.

they wernt stake in too good,because i was able to remove them with a screw driver.

i used EDbrowns.

another thing i have heard is that you can go to local hardware store and buy allen head screws the same size and threads that your current bushing have?

i didnt bother i just purchasing screws and bushings and came home and installed them.


JB
 

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Thanks for the advice guys. For lack of the correct word, I meant "staked".
 
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