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My gun has a 2 port compensator on it. I noticed build up of lead, probably due to high pressure loads that go thru the gun, swc heads melt :confused: ...anyway, what is the best way to remove lead build up on its ports, which could not be reached by copper brush? Even some portions which are reached, it seems that it has gone real thick... how how please
 

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Brownell's sell a spray that helps reduce buildup.

To clean off build up, soak in Kroil overnight, and use a home-made brass scrapper to remove the crud.
 

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If you can figure out a way to soak your comp in a 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar that will dissolve the lead. Don't leave you comp. in the solution very long, probably ten minutes max. But, check it at the 5 min. mark. Most of the lead should be gone by then. If you leave the solution in contact with the metal too long it has very detrimental effects on the steel.

RR
 

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Lycanthrope said:
Vinegar has bad effects on some coatings, particularly, black oxide.

Can't speak for bluing......
I thought black oxide WAS bluing...did you mean park, i.e. zinc or manganese phosphate? I'm curious cause I'm looking for something to remove park without blasting...
 

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I've used the Shooters Choice products and they work well. The Peroxide & Viniger is also a good lead remover. If you soak a lead bullet & a nail over night the bullet will be gone or nearly gone the next day while the nail is not affected.

I only had problems with this mixture if people soaked parts in it for long periods. Some barrels will pit very bad if soaked over night and it will remove the blue. I soaked parts in it for only 5-10 min and then would scrub/scrape lead out. If left longer it may cause problems. After cleaning in this solution rinse parts in hot water & dry.
 

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Hi Romulus,

I've not tried on parkerizing, but Birchwood Casey Blue & Rust Remover removes blueing quite well. Ciao, MAXM
 

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I've used the peroxide and vinegar for years on semi's and wheel guns with no ill effects. It doesn't take very long as the chemical reaction starts right away and lifts and disolves the lead. There is no need to let it sit.You can see the reaction and when it stops usually all the lead is gone. I flush the barrel with water and check it out. If it's a really heavy buildup a second application is all it takes.

You don't immerse the barrel, just plug one end and pour it in the other and it just takes seconds.

This only works on lead but does seem to make carbon buildup a little more flakey and easier to remove if you haven't done that already.

Just my findings.

Don
 
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