[joe5]

After cutting the lugs .001 at a time on the Weigand fixture, I was able to get the slide stop pin bearing nicely on both lugs. I sized a link by measuring the distance between the pin hole and lower lug bearing surface on the barrel, and measuring a link that came close to this. I measured .108, so a #4 link was just a hair undersized.

I elongated the SS pin hole at the bottom slightly, and filed the lug's corner radius to accomodate the link. Before putting the link on, I could see where the pin was contacting both lugs with dykem. After putting on the link, I'm getting dykem removal only on one lug. What gives? Is this too long of a lug? Should I go down to #3, then repeat the same procedure with elongating and whatnot?

 

[log man]

You should use the shortest link that allows the slide stop pin to still contact the lug stops. With barrel in hand and pin through the link you can see that this is the case.

LOG

 

[joe5]

You should use the shortest link that allows the slide stop pin to still contact the lug stops. With barrel in hand and pin through the link you can see that this is the case.

LOG

Please forgive my ignorance, but is the lug stop the rounded surface of the lug that the pin contacts when the gun is in battery?

 

[log man]

Please forgive my ignorance, but is the lug stop the rounded surface of the lug that the pin contacts when the gun is in battery?

Yes.

LOG

 

[joe5]

Thanks! I'm trying out a Wilson #3, and the link pin will not go through the link. Is this an interference fit or something?

 

[log man]

Thanks! I'm trying out a Wilson #3, and the link pin will not go through the link. Is this an interference fit or something?

The link pin hole in the lug is a tight fit, but through the link it should be a slip fit, to allow smooth function.

LOG

 

[joe5]

Nevermind. I swaged the pin somehow. The #3 fits, but only at the lug stop and a bit forward. It seems that I would have to elongate the SS pin hole bottom on the link, and file down the corner radius and some of the forward part of the lug to get the full range of motion.

 

[log man]

Nevermind. I swaged the pin somehow. The #3 fits, but only at the lug stop and a bit forward. It seems that I would have to elongate the SS pin hole bottom on the link, and file down the corner radius and some of the forward part of the lug to get the full range of motion.

Perhaps, but if the link is allowing the slide stop pin to contact the stops, it is the lug that needs the forward cam to be filed to allow the link to move in its range of working motion. Actually you want the link to start the barrels rise, and pass off to the lug cam surface on its way to battery. Elongating this link will delay the link down timing, which may or may not be of value. If with the #4 link the link down timing was sufficent, you could take .002"from the bottom of this #3. It sounds as if the #4 was causing the barrel to rise slightly off the lug.

LOG