loose ejector?

1329 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by hunter_h, Oct 7, 2001

hunter_h

Discussion Starter · Oct 4, 2001

I've had a Charles Daly 5" for about a month and have shot 1000+ rnds through it and the ejector is loose. It was not loose when I first got it, but now it is.

I talked with a couple of 1911 shooters and one said it was not a problem and the other said that it was, and that I either need to replace or restake it. So now i'm not sure if I have a serious problem or not. It is still quite accurate.

Is this a bad problem?

If so, what do I need to do?

All help is appreciated, as I am somewhat new to the 1911 scene!

See less See more

Save

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

TWO GUNS

· #2 · Oct 4, 2001

No problem.Just Loc tite it.

------------------
Have fun & Shoot Straight

Save

hunter_h

Discussion Starter · #3 · Oct 5, 2001

So it should be fixed. Which type of loctite should I use? I have the "Blue" Loctite. Is that adequate, or do I need stronger?

Save

Inspector Callahan

· #4 · Oct 5, 2001

I'm interested in some advice on this too. I have noticed an almost imperceptable "wiggle" on mine. No big deal, but I'm keepin' an eye on things. Brass ejection patterns are good and tight. The last case does fly a little farther, but that's normal.

So what's the cure? Replacement?

Save

Jack Weigand

· #5 · Oct 5, 2001

Just a little input. The only thing a loose ejector will cause is erratic ejection. If you can visualize the ejector moving up and down in the frame, you will see it just changes at what point the ejector contacts the brass. This determines where the brass is ejected. The lower the ejector hits the brass the higher it ejects. This would be a problem on a scope gun but it should not be a problem with an open sight pistol. If the brass is hitting you in the face I would fix it. As far as Loc-Tite I would not use the permanent type, you may need to get it out some day. Here is a little trick. Take the ejector out. Rotate it 90 degrees, put only the .125 pin in the frame (so that back half of the ejector is hanging over the plunger tube). With a brass hammer give it a little rap, bending the .125 stud just a little. The stud will no longer be 90 degrees to the body of the ejector. Put the ejector back in the pistol, you will notice it sits higher in the front. Put your cross pin back in and the ejector is tight again. Check that the top of the ejector is not rubbing the bottom of the slide. If it does just file it a little for clearance. OK I hope this helps.
God Bless
Jack Weigand

See less See more

Save

Bob Brown

· #6 · Oct 5, 2001

Hey, Jack. I thought I was the only 'smith in the world who knew that little trick. You just burst my baloon!!

Save

Sniper_44

· #7 · Oct 6, 2001

Hey Jack...
Name sounds real familiar...Ever come through the Pocono area ?

Save

Metal Smith

· #8 · Oct 6, 2001

Hi Guys, I see a lot of the MIM ejectors come loose and the studs sheer very easily so I wouldn’t lock tight it or even bend it. You can get by with doing this but if the stud breaks inside the hole you got BIGGER problems, why not just buy a nice bar-stock ejector. There are a number of good manufactures to pick from, I like Caspians, the last ones I bought where under 10 bux, cheap fix great part!

------------------
Metal Smith

The only thing I know for sure is what I can measure!
NRA Life Member

See less See more

Save

hunter_h

Discussion Starter · #9 · Oct 7, 2001

Thanks Guys,
I decided not to use loctite. I took it to the 'smith today and he replaced the ejector and the pin. Took him about 10 minutes and it is good as new.

Appreciate all the input.

hunter

Save

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month