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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought an old Imperial "Kamp King" scout knife at an antique store in Ste. Genevieve, MO. Aside from surface rust, the only problem is that the springs are very tight on one end.

At first, all the blades were difficult to open, so I applied a bunch of oil, and let it sit for a few weeks. Now, the main blade and can opener open and close just as they should. The two tools on the other end, down by the bail, are so tight that the bottle-opener still requires a screw-driver to pry open.

Suggestions?


(I did look for this problem in past threads, but I didn't find anything.)
 

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Try a Teflon bearing lubricant like CLP Breakfree.
Allow to penetrate over night then work the blades in and out a few times.

Depending on the exact type of knife, you may be able to use a very thin steel wedge (another small knife blade) and tap it into the joint with a small hammer.
This may spread the joint enough to loosen it up.
Do this GENTLY.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The oil I have on hand is Birchwood Casey Sythetic Gun Oil w/ PTFE, so I'm going to soak it in that.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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Depending on the exact type of knife, you may be able to use a very thin steel wedge (another small knife blade) and tap it into the joint with a small hammer.
This may spread the joint enough to loosen it up.
Do this GENTLY.
This is what I was thinking also - I think it's the onlt way it's going to get looser. Be vary careful doing it.
 

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If my memory serves me properly, I recall from my own Boy Scout knife that the blades down by the bail were always super tight even when new.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Depending on the exact type of knife, you may be able to use a very thin steel wedge (another small knife blade) and tap it into the joint with a small hammer.
This may spread the joint enough to loosen it up.
Do this GENTLY.

Do you mean between the blade and the spring, or between the blade and the liner?
 

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PB blaster, available at most auto parts stores may work. spray it down and let it soak a few days.
 

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Depends on what is causing the tightness and I'm not sure how to be certain outside of a complete disassembly...

I'd go with some kind of penetrant (kroil, marvel oil or wd-40) to start with. I hesitate to recommend WD-40 normally but it is good at displacing water and as a cleaner. Get the blades opened up and flush while moving them with the WD-40 to remove crud, any rust caught in the action and any old, lacquered up oil. Do that for a couple of days to be sure you've got most of the stuff out. Compressed air will help to if you have a compressor. Then flush it out with some deodorized kerosene (aka charcoal lighter fluid).

I like the teflon idea-I use 'Tri-Flow', a locksmith pointed me at that stuff (the local ACE hardware has it). It's kind of expensive but it is an outstanding product and is superb on car locks and outside padlocks to keep them from freezing and won't gum them up like that evil graphited "Lock-ez" crap!
 
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