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Discussion Starter #1
A Cop I shoot with recommended a weapon finish popular with their PD, and apparently chosen by the OKC PD for shotgun & Pistol refinishing.
Air Born Coatings' Xylan finish. http://www.airborncoatings.com/customer/index3.html
Their website doesn't specifically mention firearms, but the guy I spoke with over the phone stated that they coat parts and complete guns regularly. About $30-40 to bead blast/ prep and coat a complete pistol. Pretty inexpensive if it holds up. Anyone have experience with Xylan or other coatings by Air Born?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK I'll Expand The Question..

Has anyone even heard of this finish? Or, does anyone know if it is essentially the same as any of the other "Bake On" finishes?
I'm going to visit the facility in a week or so, and will try to get them to prep and coat some scrap stock for me to "Test". I'm thinking of 5 tests (To failure)
-Rubbing two smoothly fitting coated surfaces together to see how long it takes to wear thru the finish and how it wears, i.e. peel/ flake or smoothly wear down.
-Beat on the surface with a rock, or drop the coated piece on asphalt to simulate me dropping my pistol (Don't laugh).
-Trying all of my gun solvents and lubricants on it, one at a time. Then try to scrape the finish off to see if the chemicals affected the bonding.
-Rub a convex surface or corner with leather until visible wear occurs.
-Salt water bath to simulate my sweaty right hip in the summer as a corrosion test.
Not very scientific, but kind of simulates the wear that I'm familiar with.
If it holds up OK, I'm going to have a project Commander coated. At worst, it could end up needing a refinish, but for less than $40, it beats doing my own bead/ abrasive blast, prep and painting it with Aluma Hyde..
 

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DOLLARS AND SENSE

You get what you pay for?

I'm real happy with my APW'd hardchrome and my Robar'd NP3.
 

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I don`t want to tell you what to do but in my experience its best to stay with people that specialize in gun refinishing. Spending 100-150 for a good hard chrome finish that will last for years would be my recommendation.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies

the reason I asked this and other questions, is that I'm a rank amateur in home gunsmithing. I've shot many, many 1911A1 rounds in the Army, taught and trained others, but other than troubleshooting, part changing and detail stripping, I have no 'Smith experience. Add to that, most gun store salesmen and gunsmiths work in a (Relatively) solitary setting, with no one to balance or question their opinions, so it can be difficult to get an an answer or solution that is always right for me. Just last week in a gun shop in OKC, I was told by an employee (Salesman, NOT a gunsmith) with a straight face that pistols equipped with Tritium sights could not be carried in belly bags or crotch type holsters, because of radiation damage risk to testicles (Which is absolutely false). I don't mean to disparage gunsmiths in any way, it's a difficult and underpaid profession. But BB forums allow opinions, techniques and questions to be scrutinized by others who have had successes or failures with the same item in question. Sort of a "Peer review" that holds techniques/ opinions up to the light of day.
With that in mind, and the helpful opinions posted, I am thinking of Robar NP3. I like the look of matte blue but want more durability.
 

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REAL SMOOTH

I figure if I can afford the shooting required to wear off my NP3 I can afford to do it again; know what I mean?
 

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Re: OK I'll Expand The Question..

UnSafe said:
Has anyone even heard of this finish? Or, does anyone know if it is essentially the same as any of the other "Bake On" finishes?
I'm going to visit the facility in a week or so, and will try to get them to prep and coat some scrap stock for me to "Test". I'm thinking of 5 tests (To failure)
-Rubbing two smoothly fitting coated surfaces together to see how long it takes to wear thru the finish and how it wears, i.e. peel/ flake or smoothly wear down.
-Beat on the surface with a rock, or drop the coated piece on asphalt to simulate me dropping my pistol (Don't laugh).
-Trying all of my gun solvents and lubricants on it, one at a time. Then try to scrape the finish off to see if the chemicals affected the bonding.
-Rub a convex surface or corner with leather until visible wear occurs.
-Salt water bath to simulate my sweaty right hip in the summer as a corrosion test.
Not very scientific, but kind of simulates the wear that I'm familiar with.
If it holds up OK, I'm going to have a project Commander coated. At worst, it could end up needing a refinish, but for less than $40, it beats doing my own bead/ abrasive blast, prep and painting it with Aluma Hyde..
Uh, it would probably make one hell of a lot more sense to go ahead and have your pistol done and enjoy it until it needs refinishing. All of those tests may simulate real world testing, but what a pain in the ass, plus I'm sure your going to have to pay to have your 'scraps' coated. If you want to give it a try, just have the gun done and save yourself a lot of grief, at worst your spending 40.00 and saving a bunch of time and trouble for yourself.

Remember, your time has to be worth something, at 32.00 and hour, I don't think I could wear bluing out in an hour and ten minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Critter, they are going to coat some scrap pieces for free, so it is no big deal to drop off, then pick up. I am still curious about the finish, and may have an old short barreled, short stocked beater Rem 870 (Truck gun) coated.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Don't know. Never thought about it, since I can drop it off and pick it up myself. Guess it's important for shipping guns US mail/ UPS.
 

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UnSafe said:
Don't know. Never thought about it, since I can drop it off and pick it up myself. Guess it's important for shipping guns US mail/ UPS.
Actually, they are supposed to have one if they work on your firearm.

I still think you are going through a lot of trouble to se if it's worth spending 40.00, I'd go the finish and have a real 'real world' test and save myself the grief.
 

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Krylon Ultra Flat Camo Paint. I did a Mossie 500C beater with the Olive Drab, after 2hours drying time I baked it in the oven: 175 degrees for 1 hour for the aluminum receiver, 250 degrees for the steel parts, also an hour. Let cure for a week after that, nice hard finish, takes solvents, gun oil, even the mag tube shows no wear after operating the forend.

Easy as pie to touch up, too. Oh, $3.49 a can at my local Ace hardware, plus $2.99 for the primer. Looks t*ts!!!!
 

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gigi*riva said:
Krylon Ultra Flat Camo Paint. I did a Mossie 500C beater with the Olive Drab, after 2hours drying time I baked it in the oven: 175 degrees for 1 hour for the aluminum receiver, 250 degrees for the steel parts, also an hour. Let cure for a week after that, nice hard finish, takes solvents, gun oil, even the mag tube shows no wear after operating the forend.

Easy as pie to touch up, too. Oh, $3.49 a can at my local Ace hardware, plus $2.99 for the primer. Looks t*ts!!!!
Yeah, but what kind of real world tests did you do before you laid out that kind of cash? Huh? ;)

I happen to know a well known smith on this board uses BBQ paint to coat his machine guns with, and it works out great! Don't think I'd do it to a custom gun, but an old beater or under the truck seat gun, in a skinny minute.
 

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UnSafe said:
Don't know. Never thought about it, since I can drop it off and pick it up myself. Guess it's important for shipping guns US mail/ UPS.
By leaving your firearm with them you are transferring the weapon to them(temporarily) so they must have an FFL to do guns, unless they do it while you watch. :)
 

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Other than the fact that it's a 1911:D ?

I only camoed an aluminum Mossberg...1911 steel deserves blue or park.

On the performance end, if it holds up on a 1911 the way it has on my Mossie after the baking treatment, I wouldn't hesitate to use it. Just remember the Krylon does build-up, it's not a micron-thin coating. Also, I used the Krylon grey primer - the Camo Paint can will tell you which one, I believe it's the Krylon 1318 primer...
 

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BBQ heat- resistant paint from ACE hardware works great on my friend's 1911 pistol. Wouldn't want to try on mine - yet anyway.
 
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