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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just need little advise on lubing 223s gona start reloading soon.Do I need to lube the inside of the neck? I know I need to lube the outsides.If so what is the best way?
 

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It is possible to resize without lubricating inside neck. I can't say it is impossible.
But when your expander slows by friction (or gets stuck permanently)
you will understand the advantage of lube.

Carbide expander ball from Redding (for Redding full length dies) don't need lube
but work so much better with lube. Same with Dillon carbide (only available
for a couple cartridges. 223 Rem, 308 Win, and maybe 30-06, not sure what else).

Cleaning inside neck with a bronze brush helps tremendously. Not only
during resizing, but seating the bullet and getting consistent release upon firing.
Just use a bronze bore brush.

You can use dry lube or wet lube or wax.

Powdered mica or graphite can be brushed with a nylon brush, or
swiped with a q tip, or you can dip the neck in the powder.

Any wet lube like old-fashioned case lube or spray lube can be applied.
Old school lube applied with a nylon neck brush is the standard way.

If you use wax lube (Imperial, Lee, or Kiwi boot dressing) on the outside
of the case, you can use it in the neck also. You only need to apply a teeny
tiny teeny weenie bit on the inside lip of each case mouth. Don't even
have to apply all around the case mouth, just a bit on the lip is enough.
Some skip every other or every third case. You'll figure it out.

With wet lube or wax, you want to make sure you don't leave wet stuff
inside the case, or your powder will clump on it. Wax lube usually doesn't
prevent the powder from burning, but it clumps the kernels.
Clean out your case if you use wet lube or wax.

Mica or graphite don't have to be cleaned.

Some guys who use spray lube say they have no problem inside the case.
If you spray lube outside, it seems worthwhile to spray some inside case neck.
Then check afterward to make your own choice of cleaning it out or not.


Wax lube inside lip of case mouth is the single most effective in my experience.
But I'll use powdered mica if I don't want to clean out the case neck afterward.
All the other methods work well, I've used them all with satisfaction. It's up to you.

And cleaning inside neck with bronze bore brush really makes a difference.
I recommend it. Just do it by hand, run the brush in and out a couple times.

Hope that covers it for ya!
 

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Just need little advise on lubing 223s gona start reloading soon.Do I need to lube the inside of the neck? I know I need to lube the outsides.If so what is the best way?
If you lube the inside of the necks use either powdered graphite or mica and dip the necks in it. I really dont find this necessary.

Actually I should be asking what kind of lube you have as methods for lubing differ with type. For example hornady one shot is throw cases in a bag or box spray liberally and shake, then let dry. While redding sizing wax is dab fingers in and rub on lower part of case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have the rcbs pads for the outside and of late I have been using one shot ,even on my carbide pistol dies they are much smoother and seems like the primers seat much better and softer.
 

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If I am full length sizing I put a bunch of brass in a big Tupperware tub, spray a bunch of one shot in there and shake it up. I repeat 2 more times then send them through the Dillon. Works like a charm! If I am neck sizing only, I use dry lube only. These methods have not let me down after thousands and thousands and thousands of rounds.
 

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Ditto what murph says. Simplicity itself.

Just spray the One Shot and shake. Works great. Enough gets in the necks so there are no hangups. Never have to use a brush. Sizing goes smooth as butter with my RCBS die. Let dry before sizing.
 

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I have the rcbs pads for the outside and of late I have been using one shot ,even on my carbide pistol dies they are much smoother and seems like the primers seat much better and softer.
One Shot is good stuff. A lot of guys complain about it sticking cases, but in almost every instance it comes down to the fact they don't use it right. You MUST let it dry before sizing and it will work great. In the loading block, I always hit the inside of the neck with a quick shot and that is plenty to prevent expander drag. I usually prep, size, and prime my cases and store them against future need, and have found I don't have to tumble cases to clean lube off using One Shot like you do with lube pad type sticky lubes.
 

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I have been using Pam cooking spary for years on the outside of my brass. I spary some on a old ink pad and roll the brass and resize and then wipe the brass with a rag with brake clean or alcohol to remove the coating. I works very good and cheap and smells good to.
 

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I almost always just neck-size my rifle brass, so I don't have to lubricate the case bodies. I use the Imperial Dry Neck Lube kit, a small plastic bottle like a pill bottle filled with tiny balls that are coated with graphite. Dip the necks into the media three times and they are lubed inside and out and ready to size. No muss, fuss or mess!

Aside from the bottleneck rifle cartridges I shoot out of my T/C Contenders and Remington XP100R, all of my handgun cases are straight-walled so I use carbide dies and never lubricate those cases.

Ed
 

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Dillon spray lube for the outsides of the case on .223, when resizing gets sticky use a q-tip and apply a little imperial sizing wax to the inside of the case mouth
 

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I'm new to rifle but I'm another that uses Hornady One shot lube. That stuff works great along with thier dry lube and cleaner to clean any press parts and dies.
 

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RCBS Lube & pad for outside and nylon brush rolled on pad for inside-usually do every other one inside neck. I will just go down the loading block doing every other neck & then roll each case as I re size. Been doing that way for decades and haven't stuck a case in the die yet
 

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I use an extra large zip lock bag which I place my brass in and then use about 3 squirts of Dillon case lube(great stuff) and tumble the brass in the bag with my hands..this works great because a little lube gets in the neck. just becareful not to use to much lube or you can get small dents in the shoulder.

P.S if you do get a dent or two, don't worry, load em up..the dent will come out once fired. Good luck
 

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I load tens of thousands of .223s. Never lubed the inside of a case neck yet. Don't waste your time.
 

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With the .223's short, small neck I don't find it necessary to lube the inside. I lay a bunch of brass in a small plastic bin, spray with Dillon lube (I've used One Shot, Dillon Spray, and Unique Sizing Wax... I prefer the Dillon), and slosh all the cases around for a while, then I let stand for a few hours to make sure its all dry. Then I load away.

Now, for 30-06 and other larger calibers.... there is enough friction that I find lubing the inside of the neck, if not needed, at least preferred.
 

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Dillon spray of home made like Dillon works for me
Lanolin, Water and alky Mix works great!
And some gets inside the necks and is easy and never failed me. It kinda stays on the de-cap rod to lube the next. Over lube is a killer of brass as it damages it. And hate rolling cases.
I also load Lead rifle mostly but even jackets are no problem doing it this way.
 

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I use 4 oz of liquid lanolin to a 1 pint of alcohol and spray it on. I decap with a universal decapper, sonic clean, dry, tumble then stack the rounds neck up in a tray and spray. The expander goes through like butter. I bought a 16oz bottle of lanolin a few years ago and still have 3/4 of a bottle left. It doesnt take much and when dry I have never had a problem with contaminated powder.
 

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I lube outside only (RCBS pad and RCBS lube). I bought the case neck brush, used it at first and then just tried resizing without the lubing inside. So far, no issues. I use Lee carbide dies and load for AR-15.
 
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