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Age old question - How much lube?

I clean/lube my 1911, and about 100-150 rds it really feels dry...

How many rounds should I get through a pistol before re-lube?

Thanks and Happy Shooting, Thunder25
 

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It all depends on what you lube with.

I have fired over 100,000 rounds in practice and competition with lubing the same way which is:

1. I use a lube (clear gel) made by Ponsness Warren who manufactures one of the finest Shot Shell progressive reloaders in the business. It is called "STOS". By the way, it stands for "Slicker Than Owl Shi*"

2. I use a Q tip and lightly lube the the A. sides of the hammer,

B. the point of contact with the hammer and sear,

C. the sides of the sear,

D. the trigger rails and bottom of the trigger,

E. the bottom part of the slide that rides over the hammer,

F. the rails inside and out, top and bottom,

G. replace the slide and wipe any excess from the gun.

That's it! I have never worn out a Match Grade gun (some have over 30,000 rounds through them) or my stock Commander.

All my guns run smoothly with this method. They also clean with just a wipe as the residue does not stick to the lube.

Just my .02 cents worth.

------------------
ACK

"Make the First Shot Count"!

[This message has been edited by TAckerman (edited 11-09-2001).]
 

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Originally posted by TAckerman:
It all depends on what you lube with.

I have fired over 10,000 rounds in practice and competition with lubing the same way which is:

1. I use a lube (clear gel) made by Ponsness Warren who manufactures one of the finest Shot Shell progressive reloaders in the business. It is called "STOS". By the way, it stands for "Slicker Than Owl Shi*"

2. I use a Q tip and lightly lube the the A. sides of the hammer,

B. the point of contact with the hammer and sear,

C. the sides of the sear,

D. the trigger rails and bottom of the trigger,

E. the bottom part of the slide that rides over the hammer,

F. the rails inside and out, top and bottom,

G. replace the slide and wipe any excess from the gun.

That's it! I have never worn out a Match Grade gun (some have over 30,000 rounds through them) or my stock Commander.

All my guns run smoothly with this method. They also clean with just a wipe as the residue does not stick to the lube.

Just my .02 cents worth.

Yup, STOS is great stuff! Been using it forever... works like a charm!
 

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Anyone use Brownell's Action Lube Plus? I was told I should use it on all my semi-autos. Good stuff or just middle of the road?
Thanx, nod
 

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I use lithium grease. In Texas and IWB carry, I have no concerns about the grease getting too cold to function correctly (a concern of northerners). The big concern is summer where oils tend to run out the muzzle or otherwise evaporate, but not with grease. I have used the litium grease up to 800 rounds without replentishment or cleaning and it worked fine. That was in July at Thunder Ranch.
 

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I use the new hi-tech synthetic lubes. The best is Tetra Gun Lube (Brownells' 316-005-001) and it is good for any type of metal. For SS guns, I like RIG+p lube (756-030-002). How much to put on? All you want. I use a small modeling paint brush and cover the slide rails (receiver and slide) and also the barrel lugs and barrel bushing. Of course, coat the sear/hammer surfaces as well. I claen and re-lube after every range trip. The best thing about these lubes is they don't trap the dirty black poweder residue like a typical "oil" does. They are definitely worth the money.
 

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At present all my 1911's are stainless. I am using dextron type automatic transmission fluid. I would never have thought of using this until Brian said he used it. It works very well. Surfaces stay wetted, it is slick, and it is not affected by temperature.

------------------
John

"And by the way, Mr. Speaker, The Second Amendment is not for killing ducks and leaving Huey and Dewey and Louie without an aunt and uncle. It is for hunting politicians like (in) Grozney and in 1776, when they take your independence away".
Robert K. Dornen, U.S. Congressman. 1995
 

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A couple of other lubes that work very well are the new Breakfree Lubricant / Preservative solvent free and Castrol multitech 15/40 motor oil. They both hold in place and work in the cold (-10F). The correct way to use these is to start with a dry surface and just wipe on a thin film. One of the best greases is "Mobil Contractor and Mining 3% moly grease". It is water proof and still works at low temps. In my experience it is better than most of the "gun greases" and it is less than $5.00 for a 14oz tube.
 

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Best fix I found is Brownell's Action Magic II. Treatment is a project- detail strip and degrease, rub with scuzzy black moly sulphide powder and then coat with even scuzzier black binder liquid. But- it leaves everything (do the bore, too, but not the chamber) extremely slick and completely dry. Nothing sticks to it-my old IPSC gun would function perfectly with 200 gr. LSWC's until the chamber got smaller than the ammunition-typically 1000-1500 rounds. Treatment seemed to last at least a year in that application. One kit (about $20) will treat a 1911 5 or 6 times.
 
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