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Guys this is my first 1911 stle pistol. It is a current 1991A1.

I have shot it ~ 500 rounds, and training cycled it ~ 3000 times. (Riding the slide forward in training , no slamming forward)

I noticed the other day that the slide lugs were showing wear at the 11:00 position, to the rear of the lugs. Both lugs were showing equal wear patterns at the same 11:00 rear position.

The barrel lugs on the stainless barrel had no visible wear (except behind the link, there is a burr of metal beginning to be mashed and rolled off where the barrel contacts the frame , but only on the right side. Same side as the wear on the slide lugs)

Too, I took the gun to a Tactical Class over the weekend. Shot ~ 250 rds.. 17lb. recoil spring. Gun did fine for first ~ 150 rds. , then began to fail to go into battery nearly every other round (quality UMC hardball ammo).

We were shooting fast and furious by then. I wondered if it was just a new gun, got heated up, and got a little too tight.
Had zero problems before this slow shooting ~ 150 rds.

Disassembled the gun between stages wiped off some of the crud and oiled it w/ a different kind of oil. The gun worked a little better then.

Took the gun out two days later, didn't clean it, didn't oil it, same magazines, shot ~ 100 rounds, slow. Had one fail to go into battery. Switched recoil springs up, down, and sideways from standard, to 17, to 18.5. Casings all landed in nearly the same place , anyway.

Had the thought that my usual lubrication Rem. Oil might be too light and volitale, as it seems to evaporate pretty quickly. Used Outters between stages at the Tactical Class, it seemed "heavier", and seemed to still be "present and accounted for" several days later (unlike the Rem. Oil).

Wondering if that could have had anything to do with it (though I lavishly cleaned and oiled the pistol only hours before the class).
I dunno. I'm perplexed.

Does the lug wear and the FTF have anything to do with each other?

Elsworth
 

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If the lower lugs show any signs of battering then the lockup is too tight. Send 'er back to Colt to have it looked at.
 

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Yes. If the lugs on either side of the link show peening damage then the gun needs looking at.
 

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UMC is filthy crap...50 rds and I have to blow crap out of the pistol...YUCK!
Try some grease

Some TW-25 or Militech...somethin' good and plenty when hot
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I Like The Shade Too!

[This message has been edited by gyp_c (edited 06-14-2001).]
 

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I use a lot of UMC, my agency buys it on low bid, it is nasty stuff, I usually shoot my reloads and exchange the UMC crap at my gunshop. I dont and wont use Blazer, that is the worst going. S&B is ok, thats all I can say for it, dont like Wolf or American Eagle either. I do like Winchester white box, PMC, Federal, real Remington. Just my opinion.

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UMC "Yellow Box" and Speer/CCI Blazer are indeed both lousy ammo, and do cause functioning problems. I believe there is something wrong with the cartridge case in the extractor groove area with both brands.
Guns that run 100% on Winchester and Federal sometimes have troubles w/UMC and Blazer. I believe that this makes extractor fit and tension more critical, just with these two brands.

Lubrication is important on our modern "tighter tolerance" guns, particularly stainless steel, which has a higher coeficent of friction.

Try the gun, clean and lubed with "white box" Winchester or Federal 230gr Ball. If it runs 100% - it isn't the gun, it's the ammo. Don't buy UMC/Blazer ammo, simple enough.

And if you don't send it back to the factory, at least get the extractor checked for tension. No factory uses the original spring steel extractor specified - which is a pity. Cylinder and Slide shop makes them, however.

Warmly, Col. Colt

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Can't tell from your post whether what you describe is unusual or just normal break-in wear on the slide lugs. If you see light wear in corresponding locations on the barrel lugs I wouldn't worry about it. I would personally show the gun to someone who knows 1911's and get their opinion on this (pistolsmith or a really experienced 1911 shooter) before I went to the trouble to send it back to Colt.
As far as the functioning and FTF, a 1911 likes oil and won't work well without it, especially until it's fully broken in. And really rapid fire wears lube off in a hurry. Break-Free is what I use but there are lots of good lubes. The light ones don't stay on very well in my experience.
 
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