[Nomadz]

Note: For informational purposes only and not an action condoned or recommended by this site or its owners. Though none of my own Hi Powers have the magazine disconnects left in place, it should be understood that the option to do this is the individual owner's personal choice and his responsibility. Good trigger pulls can be had w/o the modification if so desired. The OP here prefers to drive the trigger pin from the from right to left (i.e., NOT driving the pointed end but the flat one. I prefer just the opposite and believe it to be a better approach, but you make your own decision.) PLEASE DO NOT LET THIS THREAD BECOME A DEBATE ON "LEGALITY" OR POSSIBLE CIVIL ACTIONS. We already have a "wealth" of them that can be found via the search function. Thanks.....Stephen A. Camp

Here are pics of the process i just completed on my latest P-35s one a Browning the other an FM.

Assemble tools punches (or good nails if your a tightwad)and a hammer
and electricians tape.

Tape over the taper pin/trigger pin on the side of the guns reciever you intend to drive it from after stripping to frame/reciever only.

I Punch out Left to Right (the flat not the taper side)through electricians tape to protect the frame with firm hammer hits to the punch or nail.I have done it this way for years works for me the 'proper' way is Right to Left.

 

[Nomadz]

Rotate trigger and mag safety mechanism out of the frame through trigger housing (its fiddly----compress the mag safety)

sit trigger assembly on bench and remove trigger lever then punch out pin in trigger which retains the mag disconnect safety

 

[Nomadz]

remove the mag disconnect safety and spring and either discard the pin or replace it for a clean look.

reassemble the trigger and lever and rotate back in to frame
replace taper pin/trigger pin.Taper should end up on the Right
side of the frame.

 

[Nomadz]

Fully restored then lubricate and reassemble here the Browning FN frame
and FM after the mag disconnectectomy

Fully restored with no disconnects trigger pull is nicer and the gun is improved as a carry gun in my own opinion.

Presented for information only if you do this modification it is at your own risk and should be checked by a gunsmith qualified to examine the pistol before use.:dope: .......................enjoy.

 

[Bob Reed]

Hello,

Trigger pins are to be driven out from right to left, and reinstalled from left to right.

Take Care,

 

[Nomadz]

Sockman thanks for the correction.However i have never noticed a difference
with the trigger pin works either side for me in the dozen or so i have done.

 

[POB]

Thanks for showing and the illustrations were great.

 

[joewest]

why not just punch the pin out of the trigger while its still in place ?

 

[M1911Arch]

why not just punch the pin out of the trigger while its still in place ?

Unless you have something holds the gun and trigger firmly in place, you'd be battering the trigger against the frame while trying to punch out the pin. Not a fun thing to do!

 

[Nomadz]

Unless you have something holds the gun and trigger firmly in place, you'd be battering the trigger against the frame while trying to punch out the pin. Not a fun thing to do!

exactly.............

 

[joewest]

i rested my trigger on a wooden dowl, and held the frame while removing the pin. i dont think it caused any harm since the force was being directed into the dowl.

 

[thaddeus43]

any chance we can make this a sticky?????

 

[COF]

When I removed my mag disconnect, I noticed my trigger went a lot further forward and I didn't like the feel of it. So I pulled the trigger back out, degreased the disconnect tunnel, squezzed several drops of red lok-tite in it and then stuck the disconnect back in with the flat edge down. I let it set over night and put it back in the gun.

That was five years and a few thousand rounds ago - haven't had a bit of problem with it.

 

[mister2]

The exception to every rule....

...is my CDNN FN HP.

1. Tried the "easy" way. Supported trigger and punched out mag disconnect pin. That came out easy! Spoke too soon. Turns out, my FN is the version that WILL NOT allow the mag disconnect to be removed from the frame this way. The entire trigger assembly has to come out first....

2. Masked the frame every which way and started tapping, hammering finally, and gave it a few good WHACKS (right to left, as I've read everywhere else). The rounded end of the trigger pin started to flatten. Back to the web where I read that, in fact some HPs really do NOT respond to disaseembly this way. These *exceptional* HPs need to be *pressed* apart. I even tried left-to-right. No budge.

I would have wanted to send it to a good smith, and have the work properly done with a 1,000 ton atomic press, or whatever, but that would've made the gun double in cost, including shipping, etc. This creek was starting to smell, and I didn't, as yet, have a paddle.

After letting it sit a couple of weeks, I went back and looked at ALL the moving/sliding parts, including the magazine's front surface, where the disconnector slides up and down, and applied automotive rubbing compound with a toothpick and just exercised the entire trigger group for an hour or so each day for weeks.

Eventually, the pull got a lot better. The grit is gone, the creep has been reduced so the letoff is predictable.

It's not a "custom" anything, but it is a pure stock HP that has an acceptable pull. Lemonade tastes good.

MR2

PS. During the couple of weeks I set the pistol aside for its own protection, I debated whether a design so lame as the mag disconnect, especially applied to a mag surface that is parkerized, could ever come from Browning. Maybe it was Saive that did it. Perhaps the design actually was not so bad with blued parts, but when FN (or their jobber) goes crazy with parkerizing everything, watch out! The trigger on mine was so bad I kept thinking it was on safety all the time.

Oh, and the trigger pin? I bet there's parkerizing in there, too. But I don't care, now.

 

[Nomadz]

Guys thanks i have adjusted the instructions to include the "correct" way as well as my standard way.:dope:

 

[davewhite]

took me 10 minutes and the trigger now feels better
Thanks for this post
P.S yes i saved all the old parts and the pin and will put them back in if i ever sell the HP

 

[[email protected]]

My trigger pin won't move just like mister2's

If I hit my gun any harder I'll probably damage it, still the pin doesn't budge

 

[Nomadz]

Try soaking some WD 40 on it for about 30 minutes liberally
them give it a good solid whack!!!!!!!!

 

[JJ Hiryuu]

Mine is also an FN HP from CDNN, and yes, mine also will not budge.

I was looking at the HP as a carry weapon, thinking to myself "Oh, look how easy it is to remove that annoying worthless safety". No 'the jury will hang you' comments please.

I tried soaking mine in every metal lubricant I have on hand, I put it in a vise, I tried hammering from both sides. Now I have a HP whose mags don't drop free, trigger stinks, and has a deformed trigger pin, not to mention a few minor scuffs. Not too fond of the mushy manual safety either.

The gun shoots great, despite the gritty trigger, and I like it's size, but I'm really looking hard at a CZ75 now. I figure if I get the bug for a HP again later I can buy an FM, and feel a lot better about hammering on it.

Anyone else suspecting the trigger pin held in place by pure unobtainium is common to the new FNs? Specifically the ones CDNN is selling?

EDIT: I just realized I'd never posted here before, but apparently registered. So, hi!

 

[msnyder52]

Mine came right out with a punch and hammer. Trigger pull is much better than before.