Was this supposed to reduce the trigger "creep"...pull before it engages the sear (is creep the correct term)? After reading your post and carefully inspecting the gun - it seemed to make sense that it would do exactly that. So, I did this but instead of loctite, I hit the shaft of the mag safety plunger with a hammer just enough to bend it slightly. Then tapped it back into the trigger with a small hammer. There is more than enough pressure to permanately keep it in place in the triggerIf you really want to make it better, disassemble the trigger/mag safety from the pistol. Take out the mag safety pin, mag safety plunger will shoot out if not held in place with a piece of black electrical tape. Press down on the tape and it will make an impression where the pin is. Knock the pin out, take the tape loose while holding the mag safety. Remove the spring and tape, clean the trigger assembly and the mag safety with brake cleaner. Let dry, then apply #609 green Loc-Tite to the mag safety tube and install in the trigger with the claw side down. Let assembly sit for 3 hours with the trigger upright on the mag safety on a piece of wax paper. The claw with act as a trigger over travel/reset reducer. With the hammer down you will notice just under 1/8" travel, with the hammer fully cocked just under 1/16" to sear engagement. You probably could mill off a minute bit off of the back of the trigger before installing the mag safety, but it will only improve it by a minute fraction. Any more than doing it this way will result in the trigger bar hitting the slide on reassembly. Even though the mag safety is in there it no longer is a mag safety. The mags drop free and you will have a much more likable trigger job without more over travel and reset and for only the cost of a small tube of #609 Loc-Tite and 3 hours of patience.
I'd say you want to definately go from right to left....how much force is needed
So whats the point of removing the Mag safety if it doesn't change any thing.I just recently purchased a brandy new 75th anniversary BHP from CDNN.
The trigger was breaking consistantly at 11 lbs, as measured with a Lyman digital trigger pull scale. The take up was a somewhat gritty feeling, due to the mag safety. None the less, the trigger did break crisply.
So I pulled the mag. safety, with high hopes for a significant imporvement to the trigger pull.
The process was easy and the pins came out with out too much effort. I also pulled the grip panels and mag release, so I could observe the mechanism clearly.
When it was all back together, however, the improvement was pretty minimal.
The length of the take up did not change at all, however, it is now totally clean with no scrape. But the trigger is still breaking at 11 lbs..... with a few iterations breaking 4 oz. lighter.
The break is crisp and clean as b4.
Looks like the next stip will bet to swap out the hammer spring with a 26 lb. spring Wolf. I'm also going to order a spare spring for the sear lever and then nip a few coils off of it, as the lever requires a ridiculous amount of force to pivot. I'll see how all that works and consider relieving some tension off of the sear spring if it's still to heavy. I'd really like to get it down to 5 lbs if possible.
I'm really happy with the quality of the machining and finish on this pistol. It's the nicest piece I've ever owned. But it sure seams like FN ruined the trigger pull in the name of making a "safe" (idiot profe?) pistol.
Just as a side note, the stock walnut grip panels are ridiculously fat and blocky. I suspect a new set of thin grips are on the horizon for me.
The pistol is easy to take down (assuming you have the required pin punches) and the mechanism is quite clever (imo).
Removing the mag. safety "did" do something. It totally elliminated the gritty, creepy take up.So whats the point of removing the Mag safety if it doesn't change any thing.
Believe it or not I was researching the same thing. Cutting coils and polishing the face of the mag safety. I shoot IDPA and need to have all the gun's safeties intact to stay within the rules.I safely removed mag retention stop out of my Browning and now trigger works like a charm.
I don't remember in which obscure place I read that cutting off a couple of coils of the mag retention spring and re-installing the system on your trigger gives you the best out of two worlds: mags would drop free since now the spring doesn't have enough force to keep them in place, and mag safety disconnect will keep working around.