[Arley]

Just do it

Just completede this procedure on my FM. Detective. It went so easy
The mag drops like it's afraid. Not sure if it reduced the trigger pull but it is sure nice not to have to pull the mag out by hand.
Thanks for the thread and everone that has responded. It helped me to decide to do it. " JUST DO IT "

Arley

 

[M-a-v]

Not hard to do... Just be careful!!

Thanks to everyone for the tips and photos on doing this, big help
I did it on my 1992 MK III. took about 30-45mins.
With this newer model, yes the trigger pin had to be removed to get the mag disconnect / safety out. I can can confirm the trigger pin is removed from right to left and installed from left to right

Be careful when doing this.. if it doesn't move.. check your direction. Be mindful of punch, it can slip of the pin... Use good tape/cover to protect the frame...

Don't be an idiot like me and whack it the wrong way around..
I was trying to remove the pin left to right.. a few good whacks I thought the pin moved.. turns out the punch slipped scratching/ marring the frame the tape I used to cover the pin/frame was some old black tape, which just slipped around from the blows, I didn't notice the marring until i removed the tape
Pics included, so others can learn form my mistakes ..


Flipped the gun a around and a few good whacks and good tape and support of the punch (put my fingers on ether side of it) and the pin was out.
followed some of the tips here on putting it all back to together, and done.
The trigger is now much lighter and more crisper.. diffidently better feel to it.
Now to test it on some bowling pins this weekend..

 

[Arley]

Sorry

Sorry that happened, been there done that. :bawling:

Tape slipped when I was removing a sight, Two nice half circle marks.

Taking that mag safety really does work though.

Arley

 

[JLeephoto]

.. turns out the punch slipped scratching/ marring the frame the tape I used to cover the pin/frame was some old black tape, which just slipped around from the blows, I didn't notice the marring until i removed the tape

I have to admit to a similar experience. As careful as I was after reading these threads, I punched a pin size whole in a set of gorilla brand duck tape and thought I had taped up my very clean polished blued '89 Hi Power very well. But I had to hammer away to get the pin loose with multiple slip and it turns out my punches pierced the tape leaving little nicks all the way around the pin.
I'm thinking about stippling that area of the frame to make it look intentional.
Oh well, all my guns are shooters anyway and I doubt I'll ever sell. When the bluing's worn away, a refinish will make her good as new.
Still, if you're the type to get really twisted up over a few scratches, and have a tight pin, you probably should take it to a pro.

 

[RodII]

I removed mine today, took about 15 minutes, no problems. I have a section of 5/16" brass rod that I used to drive the pin flush with the frame, it took a couple of good whacks. Then I used a nail set to drive the pin slightly below frame level, then a punch to finish driving it out. I removed the pin from the trigger first to try removing the disconnect without removing the whole trigger but it was a no go.

 

[TheTinMan]

The trigger pin in my 1944 Inglis almost walked out on its own on my last range trip. In the course of removing this French design element (the magazine safety), I figured out that the pistol had been reassembled incorrectly with the rounded end of the trigger pin on the left side instead of on the the right. Now that it's correctly oriented, the notch in the middle of the pin catches on the trigger spring.

The trigger pull is 100% better and all is right with the world... well I could hope anyway, right?

I will add that I reassembled the pistol without driving the magazine safety pin back into the trigger. I really didn't like the look of the trigger with a hole in it, so I took it apart, drove the pin back in, and put it back together. So decide whether or not you can live with that hole showing before you try to jigger the trigger assembly back up into the frame.

 

[dirtydeeds]

The first time I removed a mag safety it was on my Practical. The trigger pin was a bear, but I got it out without any marring to the frame. It noticeably improved the trigger.

For my FM 90 Det. which had an espantoso trigger, I decided to just remove the mag safety. I supported the trigger and easily tapped out the pin.The job was done in a couple minutes, what a breeze and a much better trigger.

 

[semperfi71]

Today, in between NFL games, I decided to attempt the removal of the trigger/magazine disconnector/magazine safety.

I utilized the video on YouTube whereby the small pin in the trigger itself is removed and then the "lever" bar" (trigger lever) in the frame is moved to the rear and the disconnector.magazne safety and spring fall/shoot out on their own.

Reportedly, here and elsewhere this "may" work on the older Hi Powers and "may not" work on the later models. Mine is a "T" model circa 1967ish.

In my case it took about five minutes, or less. The pin came out, the lever was moved, and the disconnector/magazine safety and spring shot into the magazine well and onto the bench towel.

Got back in time to start the next game!

 

[guidedfishing]

Have put it off several times, but today I had some time and decided to remove the magazine disconnect since its about -15 out this afternoon and I don't see getting any outside range time in any time soon.

I have a newer target model HP, mine would not come out by simply sliding over the lever that engages rocker that engages the sear, so I had to remove the trigger pin....
Well. driving from right to left and trying to protect the frame from marring it took considerable force to move this pin from Right to Left. Even with all my precautions I still managed a small mar mark. Once I had the trigger removed I drove out the small pin on the trigger itself and the mag disconnect literally flew off.

After cleaning and polishing everything up the trigger has just a hint of creep but is definitely better. To be honest the main reason I did this is I wanted the magazine to fall clear when released. The trigger is a small bonus. However I was still upset with myself for the mark I left on the frame.

Round trip this probably took me about 45 mins removing the trigger taking out the mag disconnect cleaning and honing everything before going back together.

Number one rule if you have to drive the trigger pin go right to left, Ejection port side to start. The pin is not tapered but the hole on the left side is.

Good luck
Shoot straight and shoot often
GF

 

[MMH]

These instruction were extremely helpful. Would not have been able to pull the mag safety w/o them. The trigger pin was VERY tight, but I got it. The rest was fairly easy.

 

[Moegy]

Magazine Disconnect

Took out the disconnect in my "new" T series tonight. Took less than 5 minutes. Just cut a small block of wood to support the trigger, pushed out the pin holding the disconnect, pulled back the trigger lever, removed the disconnect and Spring, pushed the trigger lever back in place, put the pin back in the trigger so the trigger looks like before. Done. And huge difference, almost as good a trigger as my four 1911's. I be happy.
Link to YouTube video: http://youtu.be/mdApLdz8EGA
Cheers

 

[ma96782]

Can't think of, nor have I heard/seen, a good reason for leaving the mag disconnect in!

Properly unloading a pistol over and over can become old, really fast. Not to mention the wear from the extractor pulling on the cartridge's extractor groove over and over again. OK...so, some folks are smart enough to rotate ammo. But anyway.....imagine this.

Inorder to make a firearm safe (since your firearm has a magazine disconnect) well, all you would have to do........is to remove the magazine. The cartridge can remain in the chamber. So, the extractor wouldn't be pulling/causing wear on the extractor groove of the brass cartridge case.

I was once told that a firearm's extractor pulling out a cartridge case out of a chamber was meant to happen only once. Anymore than once, was playing with luck. Sort of like when shooting a Garand. Huh? OK.....the ammo gets shot, the empty brass and clip gets ejected and the brass and clip gets left on the battlefield. Reload with another full clip, repeat.

I re-load target ammo and the brass gets cycled alot. But, not my serious self defense ammo.

Aloha, Mark

 

[Kimber ProCarry II]

I have an old 1959ish BHP that works like charm in the original design (with mag disconnect installed). My question is -- What are the benefits of removing the mag disconnect safety feature? I have no problems at all shooting until the last round is fired and the slide locks back, then release the mag and insert a fresh, loaded mag. Would appreciate your inputs about the benefits of removing the mag disconnect. Many thanks.

 

[mightymouse]

I posted this elsewhere, but I'll add it here. To remove the trigger pin, get two 3/32" steel punches, one a solid punch, the other a pin punch. Use the sturdier solid punch to free a stuck trigger pin, then--and only then--use the slimmer pin punch to drive out the already loosened pin. (Solid punch on the left, pin punch on the right.)

 

[majbdrake]

I removed my Mag Disconnect from my FEG High-power copy today. I decided to just remove the spring from the Maj Disconnect and then Red Loctited the Mag Disconnect in the depressed position and pinned it back into place.

Holy Cow what an improvement in the trigger pull! I should have done this 4 years ago when I first purchased the pistol and read about this modification.

Bruce

 

[wild_Bill77]

Didn't want to start a new thread...I did search this site and found hardly anything useful so...my question is once the mag disconnect is removed the trigger sits or swings farther forward increasing the take up and reset distance right. Ok what now is exactly stopping the trigger? The back of the trigger hitting the frame? What part of the frame is the trigger hitting to stop it's return movement I guess is my question. I can't look myself cause my only hi power is not here, its getting hard chromed.

 

[Mister Coffee]

I posted this elsewhere, but I'll add it here. To remove the trigger pin, get two 3/32" steel punches, one a solid punch, the other a pin punch. Use the sturdier solid punch to free a stuck trigger pin, then--and only then--use the slimmer pin punch to drive out the already loosened pin. (Solid punch on the left, pin punch on the right.)

I don't know anything about gunsmithing, so maybe you could clarify something for me. Don't you start the pin with a brass punch? That's what (I thought) I read somewhere here on the Forum.

Thanks.

 

[wild_Bill77]

That's what I've heard/read as well. But my own experience was the brass punch being deformed and becoming useless after a couple hard whacks to the impossible to move trigger pin...so I switched to a steel one. Well that didn't work either just deformed the pin then. So off to the gunsmith it went.

 

[Mister Coffee]

That's what I've heard/read as well. But my own experience was the brass punch being deformed and becoming useless after a couple hard whacks to the impossible to move trigger pin...so I switched to a steel one. Well that didn't work either just deformed the pin then. So off to the gunsmith it went.

Bill, any idea how the 'smith got the pin out?

 

[wild_Bill77]

Was told ( he wasn't around to talk to) he used a smaller diameter punch and large hammer. Also noticed he put a large scratch in my frame while he pounded out the pin. Was not happy to say the least. Gun was brand new unfired made in June of this year. Anyways I learned then not all gunsmiths are equal by any means.