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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My EFS came with 2 unnamed mags, but except for the lack of a stamped name and the round numbers stamped in the side, they are probably Mecgars.

With all that packing oil, I broke them down, cleaned and dried them... carefully replacing the springs as they were.

Well, it's 2 plus months and 250 rounds later and I forget which way the springs are set in.

So, folks, do the small ends go up pushing the follower? And do they have to be turned so the tips must face a certain way?

Seems I'm just now getting (too many) fail to lock on last round, now two crimped casings and sometimes a face full of residue and an occasional casing in the forehead. Limp writing is not - repeat NOT - a factor.

This is a stock EFS in SS packed in Feb/01 and delivered to me Jun 6. Yes, the D-Day anniversary... took me that long to own a 1911A1.

Appreciate your input.

-Andy
 

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The small ends go up pushing the follower.

Your strong thumb must be riding the extended slide stop that's why it fails to lock on the last round. It happened to me when I still have the factory slide stop. I replaced it with standard one.

For the casing hitting you on the forehead, I'll let the other members with more knowledge to answer it.

vega
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
vega... thank you. I'll look to that next outing.

Let me amplify the casing-to-head events.

Out of box (and de-oiled) casing went out, up, and behind my right shoulder as anticipated. Currently they do the same but now mix with erratics coming straight back at forehead level.

Am I having ejector or extractor miscues? With Stainless, should I assume there are stainless extractors - or is there a "cold stainless" dab-a-doo somewhere out there?

TIA

-Andy

Adding this:
I just examined both mags - the 8th round in both was so tight I had to work at popping them out. They'd cant nose down and wouldn't nudge without a real hard thumb push. With 6 rounds in, using the rubber end of a pencil and exercising the action, the spring/follower sounded and felt like a lot of metal-on-metal rasping. Wonder if the other problems (above) may be linked to the resistance of the round - although the 7th and under (thumb) pop out freely. I've never lubricated a mag, but I wonder if that is a consideration - maybe a real light wipe?? I hestiate to use lubricant around primers, though, particularly in a carry piece.

All inputs appreciated.
-Andy

[This message has been edited by andyb (edited 08-26-2001).]
 

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Regarding your dinged cases, if this is not clickable then cut and paste this into your browser's URL-http://www.1911forum.com/ubb/Forum33/HTML/000234.html.....
Failure of slide to lock can also be indicative of a fault in the follower where the slide stop may fail to lock it in place. Or of course riding the slide release, but I have not had that problem, but others have.
I also recommend Wilson's magazines, they can be hard to beat, but you can't please everyone either.
 

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I have done this to my ejector with little filing ang lots of courage.

Cut the front of the ejector down to an angle that will match the back wall of the magazine well.

File a small flat on the front of the ejector so any sharp corner is removed. Make this flat exactly perpendicular to the frame top. Remove all sharp corner, it could mark the brass and possibly fire a round.

Now you have a flat on the front of the ejector that appears to the eye to be rectangular in shape. Break the corner of this square on the side that the brass needs to roll off during ejection. I assume you have an extended ejector.

This worked for me.

As for your mags, it's still new. Maybe a few more hundred rounds will loosen it up. I slightly oil my spring using the tip of my finger. Check your follower for sharp edges and use fine sandpaper to remove this.

Haven't seen stainless extractors yet.

Hope this help.

vega
 

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Get rid of the cast extractor and your head will likely be safe.

I just took one apart, and the small end of the mag spring goes up and toward the rear in order to function correctly.

The extended slide release was why I had the sldie refusing to lock back. There's very little space between the safety and the release, so it's fairly easy for the thumb to hold the release down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Walking Point -

I wonder if there's a stainless finish match. What do they look like before cold blued?

The mag spring - looking sideways on insertion does the high (top loop) go forward toward the bullet or to the rear toward the primer? It seems to me it would be forward to lift the follower, no?

That's the way I have them now, and I'd best find out soon, huh?

When in doubt, read the book, huh? Well, I have it here and the breakdown diagram shows the top of the spring rearward toward the primer end. So I changed it, packed it up to 8 and now I'm back to the hard thumb press.
(As an old tech writer, I know that drawings aren't always correct.)

Where's Charles Daly when I need him??

Thanks.
-Andy

Another thing: http://www.sightm1911.com/ Care & Use/Cut-Aways, click on lower right cutaway diagram shows the spring high end forward (as I now have it). Now, which one am I reading wrongly??

[This message has been edited by andyb (edited 08-28-2001).]

[This message has been edited by andyb (edited 08-28-2001).]
 

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The top loop that is bent up should be pointed towards the muzzle. If you were to put a straight edge on the spring, the flat side is pointed towards the grip safety.

A standard extractor without cold blue might likely just look like rust before long.

Check Wilson or Ed Brown for stainless extractors and be prepared to file the back of it down to fit flush with the slide. This is a very simple task (not to be performed with the extractor in the gun).

I'll check and see if I see a stainless extractor and will post the site if I find one.

Go here:
http://www.wilsoncombat.com/accessories/ejectors_extractors.asp

[This message has been edited by Walking Point (edited 08-28-2001).]
 

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Originally posted by Walking Point:
A standard extractor without cold blue might likely just look like rust before long.

FYI - I put a Wilson bulletproof extractor (black) in my stainless Colt Commander. I polished the end of the extractor to remove the bluing or parkerizing or armor-tuff (or whatever Wilson coats his parts with). It leaves a nice shiny finish. As long as you polish it VERY smooth, I don't think rust will be a problem. Mine hasn't been for 2 years now. The only potential problem may be the mis-match of finish. The slide may be a matte, or blasted finish. The visible end of the extractor will now be a very shiny metal. This may or may not bother you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Roger that, shane45-1911 and Walking Point.

I was looking at that Bullet-Proof in SS for $29 and change. That might be the answer. I sent email to the webmaster re defining the Fit Codes; he replied instantly. Later he came back with two others with info. He gave me several names to contact at Wilson for technical info and a phone # to discuss the CD needs and fits.

It's so nice to get that kind of service.

Thanks again.
-Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
vega:
I haven't been out to shoot yet, but I just picked this CD up to present it and found that - yep - my thumb resting on the safety overlapped to the extended slide release.

I had practiced for some months with an old Llama after reading here about thumb position. I'd found it better for me to rest on the safety.

Guess I'll have to retrain. Well, this old dog, having learned a new trick now has to unlearn it.

Thanks for the heads up on this.

-Andy
 

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Andy, you have found one of the problems with extended slide stops, Operator actuated at the wrong time.



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