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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi there. I've viewed a lot of the 1911 disassembly links and tutorials and one specifically just for removing the MSH. However, in this (somewhat lengthy) tutorial...the writer included the steps as to what he did WRONG, resulting in the hammer no locking back when cocked....then what he did to resolve.

This prompts me to my question: In order to replace the PLASTIC (cheesy) MSH on my new Pro CDP II....Do I just have to do the following:
1. Take a punch and remove the pin at the bottom of the grip, pushing it out toward the right side of the gun (while making sure that the grip safety is pressed...I'll probably put a rubber band around it)

2. Slide the MSH down out of the grip.

3. Remove the mainspring, its cap, and mainspring retainer...install those same pieces in the new stainless replacement piece (from Kimber).

4. And just slide it back into the grip/frame and put the pin back at the bottom?

I'm not looking to disassemble the entire gun as some of the tutorials outline....just replace the (cheesy plastic) MSH.

Thanks very much in advance and sorry for the newbie question!!

Sincerely,
A New Kimber Owner
 

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You need to make sure you reinstall a mainspring in the new housing, but I think you pretty much have it.

A couple of guys recently outlined some tips to help avoid shooting a spring across the room. :D

Search for replies by AZHusker and Kruzr in MSH threads. I can't remember which one it was, or maybe both.
 

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Maybe. But sometimes the new MSH is too long and won't allow the MSH to slide upward enough for pin to be replaced. And sometimes the top and/or front edge of hooks on top of new MSH rub on the grip safety or push it forward so that it cannot move rearward to engage safety. When either of these things occur, the top or front edge of the hooks on MSH need filing VERY SLIGHTLY to allow it to fit properly. A little metal removal goes a long way. Cut once and try twice to adjust fit, else you may need another new MSH.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks so very much, guys....I wouldn't attempt it without your feedback/input.
I feel much better now....and less confused!!

Thanks again from a new Kimber die-hard!!
 

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There are a few more things to keep in mind. Make sure you don't do this with the slide still on the gun. On a Kimber, the distance of travel of the grip safety is what works the Swartz safety. The tabs on top of the MSH are what determines this. You have to make sure the push rod of the safety is still flush with the frame when you slide the MSH all the way up or it will lock up the gun when you try to move the slide. If the push rod sticks up, then you need to file the faces of the tabs to allow the GS to sit back far enough and the push rod to be flush with the top of the frame. If you do a search or look in the common problems sticky, you can find pictures of where to file.

One other thing....be sure and put that strong rubber band around the grip safety when you remove the MSH. This will keep the sear spring in place when you slide the MSH out. Take the rubber band off after you slide the MSH up part way and you can feel the tension it is putting on the sear spring when sliding it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
One other thing....be sure and put that strong rubber band around the grip safety when you remove the MSH. This will keep the sear spring in place when you slide the MSH out. Take the rubber band off after you slide the MSH up part way and you can feel the tension it is putting on the sear spring when sliding it up.
Ah HA!! I'm glad I didn't attempt it just yet!
Ok, to clarify (sorry about this...I just don't want to eff anything up!)

1. Remove the slide entirely (and slide stop lever) while both removing AND replacing the MSH?

2. Only use the (strong) rubber band on the Grip Safety during the entire removal process and only while reinstalling the NEW MSH until it's slid up into the grip/frame 1/2 way (until I feel tension), then remove it before pushing it up the entire way?

3. Make sure the Swartz safety nub (the little thing that sticks up at the top of the frame) is LEVEL with the frame....and not sticking up during this ENTIRE process? (When the rubber band is around the GS....won't it cause the little nub to stick up?)

....sorry for the questions....I think I'm confused again :confused:

Thanks VERY much in advance though!!
Best,
Bob
 

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Bob,
1. Leave the slide off until you are finished with installing the new MSH.

2. Put the rubber band on the GS before you remove the old MSH. Leave it on until the new MSH is part way up and the sear spring is held in place. Then take it off to check the fit of the MSH and GS.

3. Look at the push rod with the current MSH and the slide off. You'll see it is not sticking up above the frame. This is what you want it to look and feel like with the new MSH in place. You will have to slide the new MSH all the way up to check this. The only time the push rod needs to be flush is when the new MSH is installed and the GS is at it's normal non-engaged position (no rubber band.)

And yes, the push rod will stick up when you put the rubber band around the GS. That's why you take the rubber band off when you slide the MSH up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bob,
1. Leave the slide off until you are finished with installing the new MSH.

2. Put the rubber band on the GS before you remove the old MSH. Leave it on until the new MSH is part way up and the sear spring is held in place. Then take it off to check the fit of the MSH and GS.

3. Look at the push rod with the current MSH and the slide off. You'll see it is not sticking up above the frame. This is what you want it to look and feel like with the new MSH in place. You will have to slide the new MSH all the way up to check this. The only time the push rod needs to be flush is when the new MSH is installed and the GS is at it's normal non-engaged position (no rubber band.)

And yes, the push rod will stick up when you put the rubber band around the GS. That's why you take the rubber band off when you slide the MSH up.
YOU DA MAN!!!
I thank you sincerely for your information. You've literally saved me hours of attempting to scour various websites for the definitive answers to these quesitons. THANK YOU and I'm sorry for the bother!

Sincerely,
bob
 

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To gut a MSH, drive a finish nail into a board or your bench and leave about 1/2" sticking out. Turn the MSH upside down and depress the spring with the nail head enough to push the retaining pin out. Slowly release the pressure and the guts will fall out.
 

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Hi Pro,just wanted to let ya know,I just changed mine out two days ago...and yeah,it's just that simple. I had to stone the mould seam on my new MSH.........it's steel ,but it's still not a forged part if you get it from kimber.Anyway,I had to file & stone the seam (it was to the inside-facing the spring)The hardest thing for me was keeping the toe of that spring in the slot ,it kept riding up and jambing things,I had to try about 5 times before everything fit and stayed.THEN,I couldn't cock the gun ,couldn't get the sear to hold anyways. So toook it apart one more time and put it back and it works fine. My hammer has a little more tension now,like maybe the steel MSH has a shorter bucket for the spring. I hope it does,cus I plan to round it and the frame before I take it for a new cerakote refinish.
hope this helps
 

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One thing to add....

DE-COCK the gun before attempting to install or remove the MSH!

Also, in a non-LDA gun (which wouldn't be a Kimber, but I've got Para's too), there's really no need to worry about the grip safety, sear spring, and rubber band.

It is more convenient when you do it that way (you won't have to pop out the grip safety to put the sear spring back, which will pop out on you!), but it's a minor issue.

The nail or small screw into the workbench as a third hand when working with the MSH itself (swapping springs & such) is a great idea. Wish I'd thought of that....

("Full Size" MSH's probably should be disassembled/assembled in a plastic bag the first couple times. "Officer's" sized MSH's can be more or less OK without the bag. The latter is more of a "don't lose the little pin" than anything else.)

And a story.... I bought a new Para Tac-Four about four years ago. I had a local smith swap the MSH. That gun uses an "Officer's" sized MSH. I'd heard some stories and....

About a year later, I bought a Kimber Compact Custom, which also uses an Offcer's length housing. I was going to give it to a smith, but decided to pop out the MSH and just give that part to him.

I'd been playing with a spare housing, and just couldn't get the fool mainspring to compress into it, no matter what I did, short of making a tool for the job.

For the heck of it, I stuck a punch into the cup and was shocked to find out that the spring had almost no tension. Figured, what the heck, and did the rest of the job myself.

That's when the light came on.... I'd been trying to use a GM-length mainspring. It's NOT going to fit.... Ooooops.... :biglaugh:

GM-length springs are tougher to work with in this situation, but only slightly. Particularly if you've had some practice.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
One thing to add....

DE-COCK the gun before attempting to install or remove the MSH!
If I remove the slide prior to MSH removal, and leave it off until after the new MSH is installed....won't the gun hammer be cocked? Are you saying DE-COCK it as soon as the slide is removed as well, then? I just want to clarify I've got all these details correct!!!

Thanks to all for your guidance!! I'm just awaiting the new MSH to arrive and I'll get right to this! For my pro CDP...I initially ordered a blued model and am now sending it back for a stainless to match the grip safety.

Thanks again, guys!
 

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With the slide removed, VERY GENTLY let the hammer fall. Hold it tight with your left hand and pull the trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
With the slide removed, VERY GENTLY let the hammer fall. Hold it tight with your left hand and pull the trigger.

Excellent! Much thanks again, guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Procdp, in your original post you said you planned to drift the MSH retaining pin to the right to remove it.

I've never worked on a Kimber, but for all of the 1911s I've worked on, all pins were installed & removed from the left side of the frame. :confused:
 
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