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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I screwed up and hit the wrong button prematurely. Anyway, I bought a used Specialist with the duty coat and the previous owner messed it up by using the CLP (?) to clean it that they aren't supposed to use. As a result, the coat isn't "pristine". To me, it's just cosmetic and I don't care. However, to prevent further screwups, what is the actual product that messes with the duty coat? I use Hoppe's #9 for cleaning and Weapon Shield for lubrication/protection. Am I ok with those products? Is there a way to correct the finish?
 

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No Hoppe's. No anything usually aerosol, and no harsh solvents. These take the residual oil out from the quench of the nitriding, that's what makes them blotchy. DW recommends Kroil for cleaning and Weapon Shield for lube. If you want to clean your barrel with Hoppes just do it separately and wipe off before reassembly.
 

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I’ve used Kroil with mine for years now. Hoppes as others have said is the issue. My Guardian had a slight finish issue from what I assumed was the previous owner using the wrong cleaner. It still covered and held up well, when it was freshly cleaned and wet, you couldn’t even tell.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I just cleaned the gun to make sure it was ready for the range when I get a chance to go and used Hoppe's before I read any replies. Oops! I did wipe it down thoroughly and didn't leave any solvent on for very long. After reading your replies, I doused the slide and frame in Weapon Shield in the hopes that it will get absorbed and protect from what I just did.

Live and learn...

The test target provided with the gun shows VERY good promise. I can't wait to get it to the range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hoppe's oil is not problematic, Hoppe's cleaner is what is best avoided.
Unfortunately, Hoppe's #9 solvent is what I used to clean. However, the finish looks no different this morning than it did last night. I think if one doesn't use a lot and leave it on for a long time, Hoppe's doesn't seem to have the effect of altering the finish, or the Weapon Shield negated the effects of the Hoppe's. I don't pour the Hoppe's on when I use it. I use patches and Q-tips wetted with the Hoppe's and then quickly wipe it off. I don't use a lot and I don't let it sit and "soak" except inside the bore of the barrel.

At any rate, it looks like I'll be getting an alternate cleaner for the Specialist. It's still pretty and I can't wait to get it to the range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wait a minute - DW uses a finish that can be damaged by "the CLP(?)"
I may have been premature in saying CLP and the finish isn't damaged so much as the appearance can be altered. The finish is still intact and protects, it is just altered in a way that you can see where the solvent was applied and left too long. Where the solvent is applied and left too long, the finish looks "drier" than the rest of the finish.
 

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The manual lists 3 products that will not discolor the finish. I use FP-10. It works great. Just follow the instructions.

The finish is excellent, very wear-resistant and durable.

In the world of mechanics, there is no free lunch. My RX-7 rotary engine is reliable, smooth, high-revving, and has an excellent power to weight ratio. I put lubricant in the gas to keep it that way. That added maintenance is the cost. If one can't be bothered to do that, they shouldn't get a rotary engine.

If one doesn't like the DW maintenance routine (once aware of it), others will gladly buy the gun used, then they can go get a parkerized Springfield Armory thingy and enjoy (the rust).
 

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I have a Valkyrie, I bought Kroil and FP10 for it. I don't know why they chose this finish, even a Glock can be wiped down with solvent. It's a shame for such great pistols.
It is so the manufacturer can tell you to buy their chosen solvent/oil and to NOT use anything else. It's a scam and it's all about making money.
 

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@drail have you read the manual?

The manual list three competing products, how is that a scam?

Is it a scam when your Kenmore toaster says 110v only?
Is it a scam when the gas cap on your Ford Festiva reads "unleaded fuel only"?
Is it a scam when your Home Depot lawn mower specifies an 18" blade with a Briggs & Stratton 696202 spark plug?

If Kroil, Mobile1, Miltech, or FP-10 is too much of an inconvenience or messes up your system too much, don't do anything else to your gun. I will buy your Dan Wesson pistol.

...then, you can go buy a Llama, Rock Island, or Girsan 1911 and put whatever you want on that.
 

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No I didn't read the manual because I don't own that gun. Your analogies are just ridiculous and you're completely missing my whole point here - people have been using CLP on small arms for at least 50 years or more - but now someone is using a finish that is damaged by common CLP? Why would they do that? Maybe they should use a finish that is unaffected by the most popular and common product like everybody else uses. How many other manufacturers warn owners not to use CLP?
 

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I think that my BUL has the same finish. Getting some solvents on the finish leave spots that will only go away when I clean it with Bräkleen, this leaves an even flat light grey finish that will need to be wiped with oil. Spraying it with Brunox or Ballistol and wiping it down with rags until it's dry restores an even black finish. Wiping with FP10 after degreasing with Bräkleen has also worked.

I think that the manufacturer recommend certain products that is less likely to "make it look like the finish has been damaged".
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No I didn't read the manual because I don't own that gun. Your analogies are just ridiculous and you're completely missing my whole point here - people have been using CLP on small arms for at least 50 years or more - but now someone is using a finish that is damaged by common CLP? Why would they do that? Maybe they should use a finish that is unaffected by the most popular and common product like everybody else uses. How many other manufacturers warn owners not to use CLP?
You're also ignoring what I said. The finish isn't damaged. Damaged means it doesn't work as well before the alteration as it does after the alteration. The appearance is altered, but not diminished. Also, I wasn't sure about the CLP being bad for the APPEARANCE of the finish. CLP may be fine and not alter the appearance of the finish. I couldn't remember what the product/s is/were that did alter the finish and I was asking.

Bring it down a notch brother.
 
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And you also totally missed my point. Thanks for the fabulous explanation about the difference between what "damaged" and "altered" means. As far as "Bring it down a notch brother" - you lost me there.
 
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